Travel Guides Archives - Matthew Gove Blog https://blog.matthewgove.com/tag/travel-guide/ Travel the World through Maps, Data, and Photography Mon, 16 May 2022 20:44:49 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.1.6 https://blog.matthewgove.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/cropped-android-chrome-512x512-1-32x32.png Travel Guides Archives - Matthew Gove Blog https://blog.matthewgove.com/tag/travel-guide/ 32 32 How to Use Freytag’s Pyramid Elements to Tell an Engaging, Gripping Story https://blog.matthewgove.com/2022/05/27/how-to-use-freytags-pyramid-elements-to-tell-an-engaging-gripping-story/ Fri, 27 May 2022 15:00:00 +0000 https://blog.matthewgove.com/?p=4723 If you’re creating content, make sure you have a story to tell. You’ve probably heard that a million times and then some. But while so many people simply claim you have to have a story to tell, very few actually tell you the elements you need for how to go […]

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If you’re creating content, make sure you have a story to tell. You’ve probably heard that a million times and then some. But while so many people simply claim you have to have a story to tell, very few actually tell you the elements you need for how to go about telling your story. That’s exactly what we’re going to cover in this post.

Before you begin, however, you need to figure out the point-of-view you from which you will tell your story. Will it be first person from the one of your characters’ points of view? Or perhaps you prefer to tell it through the third person as an ousider. There are plenty of viewpoints you can use to tell your story. Regardless of what you pick, your decision will influence all elements your story.

Use Freytag’s Pyramid to Write Better Story Elements

Freytag’s Pyramid is a five-part dramatic structure showing the elements and flow of a story. It’s the brain child of 19th century playwright Gustav Freytag. He theorized that there are five key stages of a story that are used to conceptualize or write an engaging story from start to finish.

Freytag's Pyramid shows the elements that make up an engaging story

Below, we’ll go over each stage of Freytag’s Pyramid in detail. I’ll also share some real-world examples of Freytag’s Pyramid in action. Finally, we’ll use the example of climbing a mountain as the perfect metaphor to demonstrate Freytag’s Pyramid.

1. The Protagonist

One of the most important elements in your story, the protagonist is the main character, or good guy in your story. They’re the one who will be going on the journey that your story tells. While many stories have just a single protagonist, yours certainly doesn’t have to. You can have multiple protagonists, or a group of people that function as a single protagonist. For example, if you were telling the story of a trip you took with a tour group, the group would essentially function as a single protagonist.

In the context of travel stories, you (the traveler) are nearly always the protagonist. And since traveling is literally going on a journey, you should be able to pretty easily identify the parts of your journey and how they relate to the parts of stories we’ll cover below.

On top of Devil's Bridge near Sedona, Arizona
Don’t be afraid to grab hold of that protagonist role on your next trip and milk it for all it’s got

Interestingly, there is one notable exception, which you’ll find if you’re traveling for a cause, such as to do volunteer work. In that case, the protagonist is often the people or group that you’re helping with your volunteer work. However, you shouldn’t overlook the fact that volunteer work can have a profound impact on the volunteers as well. In that case, I encourage you to include yourself as a protagonist and share your side of the story. On the other hand, you can also re-tell the same story from your point of view. That can be a very powerful way to raise awareness to causes you’re passionate about back home.

2. The Antagonist

Sometimes referred to as the ”anti-protagonist”, the antagonist is the bad guy in your story. The antagonist actively opposes and provides resistance to your protagonist on their journey. One of the most famous protagonist/antagonist pairs is Luke Skywalker and Darth Vader in the Star Wars series.

In many stories, the antagonist is a person or a group of people. However, the antagonist can be anything that stands in the way of the protagonist accomplishing their goal. This is particularly true for telling stories about travel.

Extreme weather in Oklahoma and a global pandemic made for quite the story elements
A Polar Vortex that sent wind chills plummeting to -40°F teamed up with the COVID-19 pandemic to create quite the formidable antagonist during my road trip across the United States in February, 2021.

But Wait…Travel Stories Don’t Usually Have Clear Cut Good Guys and Bad Guys the Way Star Wars Does. How Do You Identify the Antagonist in Your Travel Stories?

Good question! For travel stories, antagonists don’t always take the traditional forms that they do in many Hollywood movies, or even in the world of news or sports. In fact, in some contexts, the antagonist can be one of the more difficult elements of your story to identify. Take solo travel as an example. You’re just out documenting your adventures, and having a blast doing it. How can there possibly be bad guys when you’re having so much fun?

It turns out that you’re right, in that there are physically no bad people getting in the way of you having fun. Instead, the antagonist takes on different forms. Often times, the travel itself – the act of going from Point A to Point B – is the antagonist. Here are just a few examples of possible sources of resistance, or antagonists, you may encounter while traveling.

  • Traffic Jams
  • Border Crossings
  • Language Barriers
  • Natural Barriers such as Mountains or Rivers
  • Bad Weather
  • Vehicle Breakdowns
  • Missed Buses, Trains, or Flights

Interestingly, if you’re traveling for a cause and/or doing volunteer work, the antagonist is the hardship of the group you’re helping out. Some examples include poverty, hunger, war, disease, natural disasters, and much more.

3. A Conflict

We’ve all heard it a million times. Every story needs a conflict. You can’t have a story without one. Yes, it needs to be said. And no, I won’t beat that dead horse any more than I already have.

The conflict is where the protagonist and antagonist cross paths in your story. Remember, each side has opposite goals, so there is a natural conflict there. Your story can have a single conflict, or it can be comprised of a series of conflicts. That’s completely up to you.

How to Identify Conflicts in Your Travel Stories

Like antagonists, conflicts in travel stories don’t always come to life in traditional ways. Indeed, it’s no surprise that so many travel bloggers, photographers, and video storytellers struggle to find conflict in their story. It turns out that you may need to dig down to find the conflict, but it’s there.

If you’re having trouble identifying the conflict in your travel story, go back and re-read the previous section about the antagonist. Look at the bulleted list of examples of antagonists in travel stories and see if you can identify them in your story. Once you know who or what your antagonists are, finding your conflict is easy. Any time you run into or have direct interaction with those antagonists is where your conflict occurs.

Don’t Forget to Provide a Hook for Your Audience

Have you ever binge-watched a show on Netflix? I know I have. And do you know what makes a show bingeworthy? The hook. It’s one of the most critically important elements of your story. Bingeworthy shows are incredibly good at ”hooking” the audience in, leaving them not just wanting to see what happens in the next episode, but craving it. And introducing conflict is one of the best ways to ”hook” your audience.

The best audience hooks usually take the form of teasers, plot twists, secrets, and cliffhangers. Go back and watch one of the shows you’ve binge-watched in the past. Pay particular attention to how they end each episode. They often introduce a new conflict without providing any idea of how it will be resolved. And do you know when they’ll resolve it? In the next episode. That’s how they keep bringing their audience back. And you should try to do the same thing when you tell your stories. At the very least, it will make the story more engaging, dramatic, and gripping.

Finally, you should introduce the first three elements we discussed here (the first or primary protagonist, antagonist, and conflict) before your main character even sets off on their journey. Giving your audience the proper background to the context of your story will better engage them, and keep them coming back for more.

4. Rising Action

As soon as your protagonist sets off on their journey, the rising action begins. Throughout the rising action, each step of the protagonist’s journey should put them into more and more direct contact with the antagonist, as well as the conflict. As a result, there is an increasing escalation each step of the journey. By the end of the rising action, there should be a dramatic build-up to the climax. But don’t reveal too much. You don’t want to give anything away before the climax. Use powerful words, vivid imagery, and/or dramatic music in your final build-up to the climax.

Climbing a mountain is the perfect metaphor for the rising action. Your journey up the mountain starts out pretty easily. The weather’s nice, the terrain isn’t steep, and you feel good and fresh. As you make your way up the mountain, though, conditions begin to change. Not only does the terrain get steeper, but the weather starts to turn. Winds pick up and temperatures start to drop. Furthermore, there is less air to breathe at higher elevations, tiring you out that much quicker.

The most difficult part of the ascent is the final push to the summit. The terrain is treacherous, making for slow progress. Icy winds and heavy snow only compound the problem. Finally, the rarified air leaves you gasping for breath every step. But you keep pushing forward because you know there is an incredible reward at the summit. That’s exactly how the final build-up to the climax of your story should work.

The scree chute at the summit of Four Peaks in Maricopa County, Arizona
After a fairly leisurely hike, the final ascent to the summit of Arizona’s Four Peaks requires a treacherous scramble up a steep scree chute.

Short Example of a Rising Action in Action

In the short video below, you’ll find an announcement video I made for the next chapter of my life and business. In the first 30 seconds of the clip, I go over my history and accomplishments as a still photographer. At the end of that rising action, you’ll see a build-up to the big reveal that I’m adding video to my arsenal of visual storytelling. Take special note of the music, imagery, and words being used. Notice how the tension and drama builds up a lot quicker right before the reveal than it does at the beginning.

5. Climax

This is the moment everyone’s been waiting for, and the most exciting of your story elements. Tension is high coming out of your rising action as the audience sits on the edge of their seats, eagerly waiting to see what happens. Then you make the big reveal.

The climax is the most pivotal and exciting part of the story. It’s the moment you reveal the resolution to your protagonist’s conflict. As the action of the story transitions towards the conclusion, you transition from the rising action to the falling action. You don’t want the climax right at the beginning of your story, but it can go anywhere in the middle or towards the end.

You should maximize tension, drama and emotion at the end of the rising action right before you reveal the resolution to the conflict. As a result, use your most vivid imagery and most powerful language to show your story’s climax. But your story isn’t quite over, yet. You’ll likely still have some loose ends to tie up, which you’ll take care of in the next section.

Going back to the metaphor of climbing a mountain, the climax occurs when you reach the summit. You can finally exhale, take a break, and soak in the spectacular views. It’s a well-earned reward after a grueling hike up the mountain. However, you shouldn’t relax too much. Your journey is only half-way done because you still have to get back down the mountain.

Top of Loveland Pass, Colorado
Standing on the top of a mountain is the perfect metaphor for the climax of your story.

6. Dénouement or Falling Action

Now that you’ve unveiled the resolution of your story, it’s time to tie up those loose ends left over from the climax. Ironically, the word dénouement literally translates from French as ”the untying of the knot.” However, the context of dénouement refers to the conflict as a knot that you’re untying. Don’t confuse it with the fact that you’re also tying up loose ends in your story.

In addition to tying up loose ends, the dénouement should also begin to establish the main characters’ new normal. Reveal any last secrets or fates that were left over from the climax. The dénouement should not just end the story. It should validate it.

Unlike the rising action, tension, drama, and emotion should drop throughout the course of the dénouement, opposite to how it rose throughout the rising action. Using the mountain climbing metaphor, the dénouement is the descent back down the mountain after you summit. Just like the final push to the summit is the hardest part of the ascent, the first part of the descent is the hardest part of the way down. The descent gets easier as the further down you get. The terrain gets less difficult, the weather gets warmer, and there’s more air to breathe as you drop in elevation.

Finally, if you’re planning anything further, such as another chapter, episode, or sequel, plant the hook to that next segment at the end of the dénouement. Leave your audience quenching to come back and see what happens next.

Serene lagoon at Lake Tahoe
Spectacular vistas and breathtaking landscapes are common rewards at the end of travel and outdoor stories

7. The Characters’ Lives After This Journey

While many storytellers end their stories after the dénouement, I prefer to have one extra element, especially if there will not be any further chapters, episodes, or sequels. In this section, we dive in and fully immerse ourselves in the protagonist’s new day-to-day life. Bring the story full-circle and show your protagonist’s new normal and how the journey changed them.

  • Did they learn a lesson from the experience?
  • Do they have a new outlook on life? Why or why not?
  • How else have they changed? What else are they doing differently?
  • What, if anything, of relevance lies ahead for them?

Conclusion

Following Freytag’s Pyramid is one of the easiest and most effective ways to tell a story that engages, hooks, and even grips your audience. Without those elements, you really don’t have a story to tell. Storytelling is an art form, and it’s not uncommon to struggle with it, especially when you’re first starting out. But just remember, while telling is literally in the word storytelling, you want to show your audience, not tell them. And once you master the art of storytelling, it’s amazing the doors it will open for you.

Top Image: A Snow-Packed Road en Route to Grand Canyon
Flagstaff, Arizona – January, 2017

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5 Reasons You Need to Travel Your Home Country Before Setting Off Abroad https://blog.matthewgove.com/2022/03/18/5-reasons-you-need-to-travel-your-home-country-before-setting-off-abroad/ https://blog.matthewgove.com/2022/03/18/5-reasons-you-need-to-travel-your-home-country-before-setting-off-abroad/#comments Fri, 18 Mar 2022 16:00:00 +0000 https://blog.matthewgove.com/?p=4105 Traveling abroad is one of the richest and most rewarding experiences in life. It opens your mind, exposes you to new culture, teaches you about yourself, expands your perspective, and much more. But how exactly do we maximize the reward of international travel? The answer lies closer than you think. […]

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Traveling abroad is one of the richest and most rewarding experiences in life. It opens your mind, exposes you to new culture, teaches you about yourself, expands your perspective, and much more. But how exactly do we maximize the reward of international travel? The answer lies closer than you think. To get the fullest experience, you need to travel your home country before you set off abroad. Without those experiences in your home country, traveling abroad will be a hollow experience that lacks clarity and meaning. Here’s why.

Travel in Your Home Country will Establish a Baseline for Comparison Once You Get Abroad

In the scientific method, establishing a baseline using a control group is a critical step in conducting a successful experiment. If you’re unfamiliar with a control group, it’s the group in your experiment where you don’t introduce the independent variable you’re testing. The most well-known recent example of a control group was in the clinical trials of the COVID-19 vaccines. In those trials, participants were either given the vaccine or a placebo. The group that received the placebo was the control group.

Traveling in your home country before setting off abroad establishes the same type of baseline. Without that baseline, you’ll have nothing to compare your adventures abroad to. Your experiences won’t be as authentic or as deep as they would be had you fully experienced your home country first before going abroad.

My adventures throughout the United States have taken me to some pretty amazing places over the years.

Traveling in Your Home Country will Open and Re-Open Your Mind

We’re all creatures of habit. There’s simply no denying that. We all have our routines that we like to follow every day, no matter how monotonous they may seem. Unfortunately it’s easy to become close-minded when all you do is follow the same routine every day. Furthermore, it’s so easy to fall into the trap of only exposing yourself to content and ideas you agree with. It can be difficult for a lot of people, but it’s really beneficial to at least hear what the other side has to say.

Getting out to travel and explore your home country will break that routine, regardless of whether or not you intend to go abroad. I strongly recommend that you travel beyond your home state or region. That will almost force you to open up to other regional cultures throughout your home country. See new sights. Try new foods. Listen to different types of music. The list goes on and on. Some you may agree with, and some you may not.

Opening your mind through travel in your home country is even more important in large diverse countries, such as the United States and Canada. For example, in the United States, which is my home country, you’ll have vastly different experiences in New England vs. the Deep South, the coast vs. the heartland, Alaska vs. Hawaii, and beyond. Is that still not enough to convince you? Getting out of your rut has been proven to boost your mental health, productivity, and efficiency. And domestic travel is one of the best ways to get out of your rut! What are you waiting for?

To fully open my own mind, it has been a long-time goal of mine to visit all 50 U.S. States and all 13 Canadian Provinces and territories. Furthermore, I intend to visit as many Mexican states as I can. Not only will this help me better understand my fellow Americans, it will also open my mind to our neighbors to both the north and south.

You’ll Expand Your Horizons Domestically and Gain a Better Perspective of Your Home Country

Travel allows you to better understand the issues facing fellow citizens in your home country. Even better, you’ll learn about issues that are affecting people across the aisle from you, whether that aisle is political, age, gender, race, or anything else. Because when we can better understand each other, we can better heal the rifts that divide us, as well as strengthen the bonds that unite us. This is especially true for large and diverse countries such as the United States and Canada.

Two Cross-Country Road Trips Across the United States During the COVID-19 Pandemic are Eye-Opening

When the COVID-19 pandemic broke out in early 2020, it cut me off from the rest of my family on the other side of the country. The pandemic, plus the complete shitshow that Arizona turned into following the 2020 election pushed me over the edge, as I was receiving threats related to either the pandemic or the election pretty much any time I went out in public. As a result, I drove across the United States at the height of the winter COVID-19 wave in February, 2021 to re-unite with my family on the east coast.

Just a few of the hazards to deal with on my February, 2021 cross-country road trip

Without access to vaccines or much other protection from the pandemic, traveling in the bubble while trying to avoid all contact with the outside world was not particularly comfortable or pleasant. But I made it across without getting sick, and I’m really damn proud of that. Most importantly, that trip was absolutely eye-opening for how different parts of the country viewed the pandemic. The lessons I learned from that trip were heartbreaking. However, they ultimately gave me a much better appreciation for the issues that have bitterly divided the country, and I am eternally grateful for that.

What a Difference a Year Makes

Now fast-forward a year. Vaccines are widely available. But less than a week before I was set to leave to drive back across the country to sell my house, South Africa announced they discovered the omicron variant. On the second day of my road trip, the U.S. confirmed its first case of omicron in California. I vividly remember listening to Dr. Fauci’s press conference that afternoon as I drove across Iowa.

As omicron spiked to nearly four times the peak of the 2020 winter wave, I can only describe the feeling in the western US as eerily normal. I still don’t know whether that was a good thing or a bad thing. But the big thing I noticed was that each side’s animosity towards the other side over COVID-19 restrictions was far less compared to just nine or ten months earlier. The bitter divisions were still clear as I made my way around the United States, but there was a sense of optimism everywhere that didn’t exist earlier in the pandemic. Even better, I was able to enjoy the first “fun” trip since my 2019 road across Mexico, the United States, and Canada. What a difference a year makes!

Scenes from my Winter 2021-2022 Cross Country Road Trip

Get a Fuller and Deeper Perspective of Your Home Country Once You Travel Abroad

As a result, once you go abroad, you’ll have a much deeper understanding and perspective of your home country. Between 2017 and the onset of the pandemic, I routinely traveled to Puerto Peñasco and Los Algodones, Mexico because I wanted to see how “the other side” viewed the border issues that became a central talking point of the Trump presidency.

Interestingly, what hit the hardest was not what the Mexicans thought about the border issues. Instead, it was how much visiting Mexico changed my perspective of the United States. Specifically, it opened my eyes to just how bitter and divided the U.S. had become. More importantly, I realized that I had become rather narrow-minded and needed to be more open and accepting of other views.

You don’t need to go far to realize this deeper perspective. The majority of my trips to Mexico brought me to Los Algodones, where I could make these comparisons less than a block and a half from the border.

You’ll Have a Deeper Connection to Culture and Customs Abroad

You can’t be a global citizen without understanding you own country. A global citizen is someone who is aware of the world and has a sense of their role in it. They are involved as members of the international community and are committed to building on this community in a meaningful and positive way. Becoming a global citizen will broaden your global perspective and allow you to bring fresh, new views back to your own community. As a global citizen, you’ll gain a deeper connection to culture and customs both at home and abroad.

When you travel in your home country, you’ll expose yourself to new culture and history. On my recent trip through the western United States, I not only traveled, but also experienced the entire length of the Oregon Trail. Being able to see the wagon ruts and walk in the exact same spot as so many westbound emigrants nearly 180 years ago transports you back in time. You realize the immense scale of the challenges and hardships these settlers had to endure on what was often a nine or ten month journey west, in a way that history textbooks simply cannot teach. These direct experiences in culture and history in your home country ultimately lead to a much richer experience abroad.

Oregon Trail wagon ruts on California Hill near Brule, Nebraska in December, 2021

You’ll Learn New Things About Yourself

There’s no better way to learn new things about yourself than to step out of your comfort zone. Get out there and try new things. It will open your mind and you’ll be amazed at how many new things you’ll learn about yourself. Then, once you head abroad, you’ll be able to expand on those lessons and learn even more about yourself.

On the summit of Four Peaks in Arizona in 2017. Stepping out of your comfort zone will lead you to amazing places, no matter where you are.

You’ll Support Local Economies

Here in the United States, greed is pretty much built into the corporate culture. Instead, I prefer to shop local when I travel. You’ll be supporting small businesses and mom and pop shops that can use the revenue a lot more than some mega corporation. Furthermore, your money will stay local and support the local economy instead of lining the pockets of some rich CEO in a big city that’s a long way from where you happen to be. As a small business owner, I encourage you to shop small and shop local. Your local economy will thank you.

Conclusion

Traveling abroad is one of life’s richest experiences. You’ll immerse yourself in new cultures and customs, push yourself beyond your comfort zone, as well as learn an incredible amount about yourself, your home country, as well as the destinations to which you’re traveling.

However, in order to get the fullest experience abroad, you must travel and experience your home country first. Without experiencing your own country first, you won’t have that baseline to compare your adventures abroad. And as a result, you’d miss out on one of the primary reasons we travel in the first place.

Top Photo: Rafting the Colorado River
Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona – June, 2015

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How to Experience History on the Oregon Trail in Nebraska https://blog.matthewgove.com/2022/02/25/how-to-experience-history-on-the-oregon-trail-in-nebraska/ Fri, 25 Feb 2022 16:00:00 +0000 https://blog.matthewgove.com/?p=3974 Starting in the 1830’s, Nebraska became the first major challenge to wagon trains heading west along the Oregon Trail. Featuring steep ascents and descents, river crossings, and extreme weather, it tested emigrants with a little bit of everything. Today, many of the Oregon Trail’s original landmarks remain not just in […]

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Starting in the 1830’s, Nebraska became the first major challenge to wagon trains heading west along the Oregon Trail. Featuring steep ascents and descents, river crossings, and extreme weather, it tested emigrants with a little bit of everything. Today, many of the Oregon Trail’s original landmarks remain not just in Nebraska, but across its entire route to Oregon.

While Interstate 80 follows the Oregon Trail’s approximate route across the majority of Nebraska, you’ll need to get off the Interstate to fully immerse yourself in an incredible piece of American history. You’ll literally be walking over the exact same spots the wagon trains followed over 180 years ago. And if that’s not enough, you can still see and wagon ruts at many landmarks across Nebraska, Wyoming, and Idaho. And on this trip, you’ll actually be able to walk right along side them.

Overview

You’ll want to start your day either in Lincoln or Omaha and head west along Interstate 80. Along the way, you’ll stop at forts, hills, springs, and rivers. Your journey will cover nearly 500 miles (800 km) of the Oregon Trail from one end of Nebraska to the other.

As you set off for your journey west, take that first hour once you get west of Lincoln to truly appreciate just how endless, open, and expansive the Nebraska prairie is. Put yourself in the shoes of the settlers and emigrants traveling the Oregon Trail. Imagine what they were thinking seeing that prairie for the first time. What did you think when you saw the endless prairie for the first time?

A Word About Nebraska’s Weather

When you plan your Oregon Trail trip across Nebraska, be aware that Nebraska’s weather can be extreme and volatile at times. Summer temperatures routinely exceed 90 to 95°F (32 to 35°C). In the winter, sub-zero temperatures are common. Average low temperatures across the state drop to 10 to 15°F (-12 to -9°C) at their coldest point. Furthermore, snow and wind can cause blizzards that can paralyze the state.

Finally, don’t forget about the state’s location in Tornado Alley. Tornado season in Nebraska peaks in the late spring, from May to early June. When you come to Nebraska, make sure you plan and dress accordingly for the weather conditions you’ll likely experience.

Buy a Nebraska State Parks Entry Permit

Several of your stops on this Oregon Trail road trip are at Nebraska State Parks. To enter the state parks, you’ll need to buy an entry permit from the state, either online or at the park. You can buy daily or annual passes. Passes will get you into all of the Nebraska State Parks for either the day or the year, so you don’t need to buy a pass at every park you visit. In addition, as of the time this article was published, all National Park facilities along your route route do not charge entry fees.

Prepare for Your Journey at Fort Kearny

Fort Kearny was the first fort settlers on both the Oregon and California Trails reached on their journey west. The U.S. Army established the fort in 1848 to protect emigrants from the threat of Native American attacks. Today, Fort Kearny is one of Nebraska’s State and Historical Parks. You will need to buy an entry permit either online or at the park before going off to explore the fort.

Fort Kearny itself is located just across the river from the town of Kearney on State Route 50A. It’s easily accessible from Exits 279 or 272 on I-80. At the fort, you can partake in several outdoor activities.

  • Watch an interpretive video about the history of the fort and its relationship with nature
  • Tour reconstructed buildings and see live re-enactments of what life was like at the fort during the heyday of the Oregon Trail
  • Hike or bike the nature trail. Fort Kearny is along a major sandhill crane migration route and is a haven for birdwatchers during the migration.
  • Visit the nearby Fort Kearny Recreation Area for even more outdoor activities.
Fort Kearny was the first stopover for emigrants on the Oregon Trail.
Fort Kearney State Historical Park

For the most immersive experience, you’ll want to visit during the warmer months when everything is open. On the other hand, if you visit in the winter, having the entire park to yourself can be magical.

Hike California Hill, the First Major Ascent on the Oregon Trail

Ascending 240 feet in about a mile and a half, California Hill presented the first topographical challenge for westbound wagon trains. Near the town of North Platte, Nebraska, the Platte river forks into the North Platte and South Platte rivers. After the fork, the Oregon Trail follows the North Platte River across western Nebraska and into Wyoming.

Because the Oregon Trail started in Missouri, wagon trains went along the south shores of the Platte River east of the fork. But here’s the dilemma. The easiest crossing of the South Platte River meant that you had to go over California Hill. The alternate route passed over relatively flat terrain, but the river crossing was far more perilous. As a result, many wagon trains opted for California Hill as the safer option.

How to Access the Trailhead at the Base of California Hill

Today, California Hill has some of the best-preserved wagon ruts on the entire Oregon Trail. Unfortunately, online directions to the hill itself are inaccurate at best and misleading at worst. From the town of Brule, Nebraska, head west on US-30. About 4.5 miles (7.2 km) west of town, you’ll see a pull off on the side of the road with the historical marker for California Hill. However, if you want to hike up California Hill or simply get the best view of it, you’re still in the wrong place.

At the historical marker, you’ll see a dirt road that heads north from US-30. Follow that dirt road north for about a quarter mile or so, and park in the small cutout on the left side of the road. There are no signs or anything for parking, but it’s the only cutout along the whole stretch of road. There are small placards for both the Oregon and California Trails nailed to the fence. It’s not well noted, but the National Park Service owns the land here, which is open to the public.

Placards marking the Oregon Trail and California Trail are nailed to a fence at the California Hill parking area.
Oregon and California Trail Placards at the Parking Area at California Hill

Experience Some of the Most Well-Preserved Wagon Ruts on the Entire Oregon Trail

Walk through the cut in the fence and follow the tire tracks up the hill. The initial tire tracks you see are modern, but you’ll quickly pass by some old cow troughs and under some power lines. As soon as you’re under the power lines, everything you see from that point onward are the wagon ruts from the Oregon Trail. Most of these ruts are between 150 and 180 years old. While you’re welcome to walk to the top of California hill, the best wagon ruts are only about 1,000 feet (300 m) from the parking area.

See More Wagon Ruts Where Emigrants Locked Their Wheels to Descend Windlass Hill

Just 20 miles from California Hill is the first major descent on the Oregon Trail, and the steepest descent in Nebraska. Windlass Hill marked the transition from the high table lands of western Nebraska down into the North Platte River Valley.

Despite Nebraska’s reputation as being largely flat, Windlass Hill is mind-numbingly steep – about 50% steeper than the steepest hills in San Francisco. Wagons had to descend a 25° angle, or 47% grade, for about 300 feet (100 m). For comparison, the steepest grades on major U.S. highways are usually between 6 and 8%. Because Windlass Hill is so steep, most wagon trains simply locked their wheels and dragged the wagons down the hill.

While it was an effective method to control the wagons on the descent, locking the wheels left deep scars in the landscape, which are still clearly visible today. And unlike California Hill, the wagon ruts on Windlass Hill are clearly visible from the parking lot.

Wagon ruts are carved into the landscape where emigrants descended Windlass Hill on the Oregon Trail in Nebraska.
Wagon Ruts on the Steepest Part of Windlass Hill

However, to completely immerse yourself in the history, hike the 0.6 mile (1 km) round trip paved trail to the top of the hill. You’ll quickly discover that the wagon ruts on the top of Windlass Hill are not the deepest scar in the landscape. Not even close. It’s the deep gorge at the bottom of the hill as you transition into the valley. You’ll cross a bridge over the gorge about 150 feet or so after you leave the parking lot.

Wagon trains on the Oregon Trail carved a gorge in the landscape as they descended Windlass Hill.
Gorge Made by Wagon Trains on the Oregon Trail in the 1800s

Interestingly, at first glance, the gorge looks like a natural feature, but the exact opposite is true. The gorge is 100% man-made and would not exist had the Oregon Trail not run through there. It is the result of wagon trains with locked wheels passing over the same area for 50 years.

When you return to the parking lot after the hike, have a look across the valley. You’ll see several sets of wagon ruts going up and over the next hill and down into Ash Hollow.

Wagon ruts on the Oregon Trail between Windlass Hill and Ash Hollow
Wagon Ruts Across the Valley from Windlass Hill Going Towards Ash Hollow

Ash Hollow Spring: An Oasis on a Arid Prairie

Water was a precious resource along the Oregon Trail. While the Platte River is a logical source of water for the Oregon Trail route across Nebraska, heavy traffic often contaminated the water in the river. That’s why Ash Hollow Spring was such an oasis for westbound wagon trains. In fact, Ash Hollow was so precious that Native Americans fought bitterly over the spring for centuries before the white man first arrived in the early 1800’s.

Ash Hollow gave emigrants a source of pure, clean spring water. As a result, Ash Hollow was a popular “rest area” on the Oregon Trail. Settlers often camped at the spring for a few days to rest up and recharge before continuing on their journey west.

The Ash Hollow Spring provided a source of fresh, pure drinking water for emigrants on the Oregon Trail.
Ash Hollow Spring

Ash Hollow is located right off of US-26, about 2.5 miles (4 km) northwest of Windlass Hill. Once you’re in the park, take the first left onto an unmarked dirt road. That dirt road will end after short distance at a picnic area. Park at the end of the road and walk across the picnic area to Ash Hollow Spring. Sit on one of the benches and enjoy the peaceful tranquility, or walk along the edge of the spring. And keep your eyes peeled. There’s plenty of wildlife to see in the area.

Finally, don’t forget to enjoy the rest of Ash Hollow State Historical Park. At the very least, drive up to the top of the bluff and take in the breathtaking view of the surrounding prairies and hills. There is a visitor’s center and museum up there, too. However, they were both closed when I was there due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

Take in the Breathtaking Vistas from Courthouse and Jail Rocks

Originally called McFarlane’s Castle, Courthouse and Jail Rocks were the first major rock landmarks for westbound settlers. Marking the point where the major trunks of the Oregon and California Trails merged, the massive presence of Courthouse Rock caused many people who passed it to liken it to a castle or court. Records of using Courthouse and Jail Rocks as a landmark date back as early as the fur traders that charted the original Oregon Trail around 1810.

From a geologic standpoint, Courthouse and Jail Rocks give you a glimpse into the ancient plateau that once towered over what is now western Nebraska. Over thousands of years, wind and water have slowly eroded the plateau. It left behind several stunning monoliths across western Nebraska that became famous landmarks along the Oregon Trail. Can you think of any others? Chimney Rock is one that immediately comes to mind.

Late afternoon sun casts warm light on Courthouse and Jail Rocks
Courthouse and Jail Rocks

Courthouse and Jail Rocks are located along State Route 88 about 4 miles (7 km) south of Bridgeport, Nebraska. The rocks tower over the surrounding landscape, so they are quite hard to miss. When you get close to the rocks, turn right onto a dirt road called Road 81. It’s not terribly well marked other than a small Oregon Trail placard at the entrance to the road. In good weather, the road is easily passable in a standard passenger car. Park at the end of the road, hike the short loop around Courthouse and Jail Rock, and take in the breathtaking vistas of the surrounding prairies.

Chimney Rock: The Most Famous Oregon Trail Landmark

I don’t know about you, but the one landmark I really remember from playing the Oregon Trail game as a kid is Chimney Rock. Like Courthouse and Jail Rocks, Chimney Rock is one of the most famous rock landmarks on the entire Oregon Trail. And it didn’t just provide a very recognizable landmark for the Oregon Trail. Westbound settlers on the California Trail and the Mormon Trail also used Chimney Rock as a critical landmark.

Shortly after leaving Bridgeport on US-26 going west, Chimney Rock should come into view way off in the distance. From this vantage point, you can see why it was such a world famous landmark. Even in a car at 65 mph, you can see it for at least 15 minutes before you get to the turnoff. On a wagon train, it would be visible for at least a day or two. You have to try really hard to miss it.

Oregon Trail settlers could see Chimney Rock from miles away.
Approaching Chimney Rock on US-26

Thankfully, access is both easy and well-signed. Chimney Rock is located just south of the junction of US-26 and SR-92 near Bayard, Nebraska. Regardless of where you’re coming from, just follow the signs for Chimney Rock. It’s really that easy. In addition to the beautiful landscapes, there is a Visitor’s Center, museum, cemetery, and hiking trails at Chimney Rock.

There are a few things to keep in mind for your Chimney Rock photography and videos. The only roads and viewpoints to it look west, so mornings offer the best light for photographing Chimney Rock. The viewpoint at the end of the road and the hiking trails offer the best photo opps.

However, if you’re there in mid-December like I was, you can also take advantage of the low sun angles in the afternoon. From the lookout area, once the sun disappears behind the nearby bluff, it still bathes Chimney Rock in a beautiful low, warm light. You actually get a bit of an extended Golden Hour before sunset that is simply divine.

The setting sun bathes Chimney Rock in a warm light
Low Afternoon Sunlight Glows on Chimney Rock in the Late Afternoon in Mid-December, 2021

End Your Oregon Trail Journey Across Nebraska Taking in Sunset at Scottsbluff National Monument

Towering 800 feet over the North Platte River, Scott’s Bluff is a fitting place to end your Oregon Trail road trip across Nebraska. The bluff was another key landmark for settlers along the Oregon, California, and Mormon Trails, as well as the Native Americans. The wagon ruts have unfortunately eroded over time, but you can still walk about half a mile of the actual Oregon Trail within the National Monument.

If you want to drive up the bluff, make sure to arrive at least 30 to 45 minutes prior to sunset, as the road closes shortly before sunset. However, I find that your best photo and video opportunities actually come from down near the Visitor’s Center. Take advantage of the Golden Hour as the setting sun lights up the bluff in brilliant shades of yellows, oranges, and reds.

From Scottsbluff National Monument, it’s a quick drive back into town for accommodations for the night. In Scottsbluff, you’re only about 20 miles (30 km) from the Wyoming border. As a result, you’ll be in perfect position to continue your Oregon Trail journey west into Wyoming the next day.

Conclusion

Taking a road trip along the Oregon Trail route across Nebraska is one of the most interactive ways to immerse yourself in American history. You’ll literally be passing over the same terrain and seeing the same sights that the westbound settlers experienced nearly 200 years ago. While modern amenities have made the journey today far safer and more comfortable, I hope you’ll get an appreciation for the sacrifices and hardships so many emigrants encountered as they chased a better life in the west. Have you driven any of the Oregon Trail across Nebraska? Please feel free to share your experiences in the comments below.

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Top Photo: Wagon Ruts are Carved into the Side of California Hill
Brule, Nebraska – December, 2021

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How To Have A Safe And Successful Visit To Los Algodones, Mexico During The COVID-19 Pandemic https://blog.matthewgove.com/2022/01/21/how-to-have-a-safe-and-successful-visit-to-los-algodones-mexico-during-the-covid-19-pandemic/ https://blog.matthewgove.com/2022/01/21/how-to-have-a-safe-and-successful-visit-to-los-algodones-mexico-during-the-covid-19-pandemic/#comments Fri, 21 Jan 2022 16:00:00 +0000 https://blog.matthewgove.com/?p=3630 When the US-Mexico border slammed shut at the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic, I worried whether the small border town of Los Algodones would be able to survive just a brief closure. Little did I know at the time that the border closure would last for nearly two years. I’ll […]

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When the US-Mexico border slammed shut at the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic, I worried whether the small border town of Los Algodones would be able to survive just a brief closure. Little did I know at the time that the border closure would last for nearly two years. I’ll be honest with you, I really did fear the worst for what the border closure would do to the local economy not just in Los Algodones, but all of the border towns that line the US-Mexico border. Exactly 900 days since my last visit to Los Algodones in July 2019, I was finally able to return in December, 2021. And I’m happy to report that Los Algodones has not just survived the COVID-19 pandemic. It’s thriving better than I’ve ever seen it.

Why Should You Visit Los Algodones?

As one of the top medical tourist destinations in the world, Los Algodones is a truly unique border town experience. With over 400 dentists packed into a four square block area, it has earned its nickname, Molar City. With dental procedures costing about 10-20% what the do in the United States, both Americans and Canadians flock to Los Algodones year round. While it’s most famous for its dentists, Los Algodones also has one of the highest concentrations of eye doctors and optometrists in the world.

If you’re not into the medical tourism, there’s still plenty of things to do in Los Algodones. You can buy handcrafted goods from the street vendors, eat some delicious Mexican food, and take home the obligatory bottle of tequila. While it’s certainly not as picturesque as places like Puerto Peñasco or the coastal destinations of Baja California and Sonora, rest assured that you’ll have a safe, fun, and memorable time in Los Algodones.

Bustling streets in Los Algodones, Baja California, Mexico during the COVID-19 pandemic
Despite the COVID-19 pandemic, the streets of Los Algodones are as vibrant as they’ve ever been.

Getting to Los Algodones from California, Arizona, and Nevada

Los Algodones sits in the far northeast corner of the State of Baja California, just west of Yuma, Arizona. You can easily get there from the east or west via Interstate 8, or from the north via US-95.

To get to the border crossing into Los Algodones, take Exit 166 in California off of I-8. Turn south onto CA-186. After about a mile (1.6 km), you’ll reach the border. I recommend parking in the Quechan lot on the US side of the border. The Quechan parking lot has remained open during the COVID-19 pandemic, and still costs $6 for the day to park there. You can drive into Mexico if you wish, but the streets of Los Algodones are small and busy, and parking can be very limited there.

To reach Los Algodones, head west on I-8 from Yuma and follow the signs to Mexico

Are There COVID-19 Protocols Crossing the Border into Los Algodones, Mexico?

Mexico has had some of the loosest border restrictions in the world since the pandemic began. As a result, crossing into Los Algodones felt eerily like pre-COVID times. You walk from the parking lot through the turnstile gate, and just walk right into Mexico. There were a few members of the Mexican military stationed near the border watching people enter, but they were not stopping anyone.

I did not have to pass through any checkpoints, temperature checks, or anything else related to COVID-19 entering Los Algodones, Mexico on foot. You do not need to show proof of vaccination or negative test. However, both the U.S. Federal Government and the Government of Canada strongly recommend that their citizens be fully vaccinated before traveling to Mexico. You may be subject to additional COVID-19 related screenings if you cross into Mexico in your vehicle.

Tourists cross into Los Algodones, Mexico from the United States
Entering Los Algodones on foot from the United States is just as simple as it was prior to the COVID-19 pandemic

Stay Safe from COVID-19 While Enjoying Los Algodones

Because nearly all of the Los Algodones experience is outdoors in the open air, you can stay safe from COVID-19 with nothing more than a little common sense. I visited Los Algodones during the explosion of the omicron variant at the end of 2021. Not once did I feel unsafe from COVID-19 during my visit.

Wear a Mask

Unlike much of the United States, the State of Baja California requires that you wear a face mask while inside any building that’s open to the public. Masks are not required outdoors. However, you may find the streets of Algodones to be small, cramped, and crowded. As a result, I recommend that you wear a mask if you’re in a crowded area, even if you’re outside. This is especially true if you’re visiting during the ongoing omicron spike.

So just how strictly are the mask mandates enforced? It depends on exactly where you are. Many of the liquor stores, pharmacies, and indoor restaurants will not let you in without one. On the other hand, the street vendors did not really seem to care whether or not people were masked. But then again, masks are not required outdoors, which is where most of the street vendors operate. I did not go into any of the dental facilities, but my understanding is that they are the strictest at enforcing mask requirements.

Keep Your Distance

While the government mandated social distancing restrictions in Los Algodones have been lifted, you should still use common sense when out in public. If you see somewhere that’s really crowded, circle around to something else and see if the crowds clear out. People are pretty constantly on the move in Algodones, so it usually doesn’t take long for a busy area to thin out a bit.

If you do find yourself in an area that enforces social distancing, Mexico uses the same 6 feet or 2 meters that the United States and Canada use. During my visit to Los Algodones, I saw a couple signs for social distancing. Not surprisingly, they appeared to be leftover from earlier in the pandemic that were never taken down. Nobody was enforcing them.

COVID-19 protocols remain in effect in Los Algodones
COVID-19 Protocols Sign on the Front of a Restaurant in Los Algodones, Baja California, Mexico

Sanitize Your Hands

During my visit to Los Algodones during COVID-19, everywhere felt very, very clean. In fact, the town felt cleaner that it did during any of my previous visits prior to the pandemic. Hand sanitizing stations are widely available throughout town, and you can carry your own sanitizer back and forth across the border. U.S. Customs and Border Protection does not put any restrictions on hand sanitizer the way the TSA does.

Support Los Algodones’ Local Economy

As a small business owner, I’m a big proponent of supporting small businesses and your local economy. I’d much rather spend my money at a local store and keep the money locally than have it wind up lining the pockets of a rich CEO on the other side of the country. And that local economy is exactly what makes Los Algodones so special and so unique. Best of all, you can still enjoy all of the same experiences that you would prior to the pandemic. All while keeping your risk level to a minimum. As I mentioned earlier, I did not feel at significant risk of COVID-19 while I was there.

  • Eat at restaurants. Nearly all of them are outdoors and open air.
  • Shop from the street vendors, liquor stores, and pharmacies. None of them appear to have taken any serious economic hits from the pandemic. In fact, there were more street vendors in December, 2021 than I ever remember.
  • Visit the dentist and get your teeth cleaned. Just make sure to do your homework before hand to ensure you’re choosing a reputable practice.

Returning to the United States

While not much has changed entering Mexico, you will notice some changes to the process for re-entering the United States because of the pandemic. You still line up in the same place you always do, but the line no longer snakes around the fence into the customs hall. Instead, U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) stops the front of the line right where you step from Mexico into the United States. When you reach the front of the line, a CBP agent will verify you have the proper documents to enter. They will then send you to the customs hall in small groups. There is plenty of shade available while you’re waiting in line. However, you may want to bring a water bottle if it’s a hot day.

People wait in line to clear customs back into the United States
The queue to re-enter the United States in Los Algodones. Wait times were similar to the pre-COVID era.

Once you reach the customs hall, you must wait outside until it’s your turn to go through. Once inside, the process to clear customs goes quick. I was in and out in less than two minutes.

Federal Mask Requirements in the United States

Because the customs hall is a federal facility, you are required to wear a mask while inside it. Ironically, the U.S. Government has started taking pictures of everyone entering the country to verify their identity. As a result, the first thing the CBP agent will ask you to do is take off your mask. If you’re a U.S. citizen, they will delete your photo as soon as they verify your identity. You can always request an alternative method to verify your identity if you’re uncomfortable having your picture taken.

Proof of COVID-19 Vaccination or Negative Test

As far as COVID-19 related documentation goes, you do not need much to cross the land border. In fact, U.S. citizens do not need any documentation. You do not need to present proof of a negative test to enter the United States at a land border, as the testing requirement only applies if you’re arriving by air.

However, if you are not a U.S. citizen, you will need to show proof of full vaccination. The U.S. currently accepts any vaccine that either the CDC or the World Health Organization has approved. At the time I’m writing this, the U.S. does not include booster shots in their definition of fully vaccinated, but that will likely change at some point in the next several months.

Don’t Forget to Declare Everything You’re Bringing Back from Mexico

Finally, you still need to declare everything you’re bringing back from Mexico. Failing to declare an item can lead to hefty fines, penalties, and even jail time. Don’t even think about doing it.

Conclusion

Despite the explosion in COVID-19 cases due to the omicron variant, you can still have a fun, safe, and enjoyable time in Los Algodones. We know so much more about the virus now that we did even just a year ago. With medical tourism rendering a lot of its services essential, Los Algodones seems to be thriving better now than ever before. Be smart, know the limits for your comfort and risk levels for being around others in a pandemic, and you’re bound to have a great time.

I’ll be producing a video of this guide soon, and it will be posted here once it’s done. Have you visited Los Algodones since the pandemic began? Leave your story in the comments below. Don’t let the pandemic be an excuse not to go experience one of the most unique border destinations in the world.

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The Complete Travelers’ Guide to Rue Canusa https://blog.matthewgove.com/2021/10/22/the-complete-travelers-guide-to-rue-canusa/ Fri, 22 Oct 2021 16:00:00 +0000 https://blog.matthewgove.com/?p=3352 Rue Canusa, or Canusa Street as it’s known in English, is both a modern oddity and an homage to simpler, more unified times along the US-Canada border. Named for the two countries it separates, it’s one of the only places in the world where you can drive down the street […]

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Rue Canusa, or Canusa Street as it’s known in English, is both a modern oddity and an homage to simpler, more unified times along the US-Canada border. Named for the two countries it separates, it’s one of the only places in the world where you can drive down the street and each side of the road is in a different country. Head eastbound and you’re driving on US soil. Turn around and head back west, and you’ll be in Canada. And in the times of COVID-19, that division could not be any more stark.

Where is Rue Canusa?

Rue Canusa sits in a beautiful, rolling, and rural part of the Green Mountains separating Stanstead, Québec from Beebe Plain, Vermont. As the crow flies, it’s equidistant from both Montréal and Burlington; however, the nearest city is Sherbrooke, Québec, about 45 km (28 mi) to the northeast.

Why You Should Drive Rue Canusa

Despite Rue Canusa’s short length – about half a kilometer – it’s loaded with history. Despite increasingly tightened security on both sides of the border over the past 30 years, it will give you glimpse into the past when life along the border was much simpler and much more unified.

In addition, Rue Canusa is one of the only places in the world where you can drive down the street, turn around, and come back down the same street in the opposite direction and be in a different country. In fact, it may be the only place in the world you can do that, but I haven’t been able to verify that for certain.

Prior to the September 11th terror attacks, communities along this part of the US-Canada border largely functioned as a single community. Crossing the border was simple and painless, more often resembling the process of crossing state or provincial boundaries than the international border crossings you know today.

Modern Times Means Tighter Border Security

Both the United States and Canada really began cracking down on border security in the immediate aftermath of the September 11th attacks. All of these small bi-national communities on the border were split in half overnight. People stopped crossing the border for simple errands, and many facilities that were built on the border to cater to patrons from both countries closed. The only venue that remains open today is the Haskell Free Library and Opera House, though it, too, has been closed during the COVID-19 pandemic.

The Haskell Free Library and Opera House sits only about 1 km from Rue Canusa.
Haskell Free Library and Opera House in 2019, as seen from the Vermont Side of the Border

Today, all that remains of those simpler times are gates and barriers across streets that once united the communities on each side of the border. All cross-border traffic is redirected to official ports of entry. While you hate to lose the unification of border communities, the benefits of tighter border security far outweigh the convenience of being able to walk into another country completely unaware that you’re crossing the border.

An Interesting Historical Legend

One of the more fascinating aspects of the history of Rue Canusa is its historical legend. The legend claims that when Stanstead and Beebe Plain were being settled back in the 1700s, a group of surveyors had too much to drink when they were working to determine where the international border was. Some people claim that these drunk surveyors were behind Rue Canusa. Others say it was just a mistake. Either way, both Stanstead and Beebe Plain continue to try and function as a single community despite the ever-evolving international border.

How Do You Get to Rue Canusa?

You can easily access Rue Canusa from either the United States or Canada. However, it is much easier from a logistical standpoint if you access it from Canada because you do not need to check in with customs prior to entering Rue Canusa. We’ll circle back to this very shortly.

Rue Canusa itself is very short, only about half a kilometer (1/3 mile). However, both countries have ports of entry at the west end of Rue Canusa. About 2 km to the east, you’ll find a much larger port of entry at the northern terminus of Interstate 91 and the southern terminus of Autoroute 55.

Access From Canada

From Canada, head south from Magog, Québec on either Autoroute 55 or Highway 247. If you have time, I recommend using Highway 247, a scenic, laid back drive that runs through rolling hills, forests, and quaint farmland along the shores of Lake Mamphrémagog. On the other hand, Autoroute 55 is a major freeway. Even better, Highway 247 becomes Rue Canusa when you reach the border.

On Highway 247, you’ll know you’re close when you start seeing signs for “Douanes”, which means “customs” in French. When you reach the border, follow the large orange barricade as the road bends 90 degrees to the left. Pass between the American and Canadian customs halls and onto Rue Canusa.

Approaching the west end of Rue Canusa from Quebec 247
Approaching the western end of Rue Canusa on Hwy 247, looking south into the United States from Stanstead, Québec

Access From the United States

From the United States, follow Interstate 91 North to its northern terminus at the border. Take the first left after clearing Canadian customs onto Québec 247. Follow Highway 247 for about 2 kilometers, which will bring you to the eastern end of Rue Canusa. After completing your journey down Rue Canusa, turn left to return to the United States, or turn right to continue north into Canada.

The US Port of Entry in Derby Line, Vermont is less than 2 km from Rue Canusa
Waiting to Enter the United States at the Northern Terminus of Interstate 91 in Derby Line, Vermont – August, 2019

How Customs Works

It’s no surprise that Rue Canusa’s unique design causes confusion among visitors and non-residents. Thankfully, it’s not as complicated as it may seem. Both countries have special rules for residents of Rue Canusa to deal with the border issue, but they do not apply to visitors.

When visiting Rue Canusa, always remember my golden rule: if in doubt, stop at the customs hall and check in. If they don’t need anything from you, they’ll send you on your way. On the other hand, failure to check in at customs will result in thousands of dollars in fines and can even result in jail time. A quick stop at customs can save yourself a ton of headaches.

Because Rue Canusa is a Québec Provincial Highway, the rule is shockingly simple. If you’re coming from Canada and staying in Canada, you do not need to pass through customs. If you’re doing anything else, you will need to clear customs on either or both of your outbound and return trips. The map below should make it clear why.

OriginDestinationCanadian CustomsU.S. Customs
United StatesCanadaYes, at EntryNo
United StatesUnited StatesYes, at EntryYes, at Exit
CanadaUnited StatesNoYes, at Exit
CanadaCanadaNoNo
Customs Check-In Requirements for Entering Rue Canusa from the Origin and Exiting Rue Canusa to the Destination

What to Expect Driving or Walking Rue Canusa

If I dropped you onto Rue Canusa without any context, it would feel just like any other quiet, quaint residential street in the US or Canada. Well-kept homes line both sides of the street. There are even a few businesses on the Québec side of the street near the east end of Rue Canusa.

Furthermore, you would have no idea an international border ran right down the middle of the street. Okay, maybe Canadian flags flying on one side of the street and American flags flying on the other might clue you in. But there are no fences, markers, or other indicators of the border aside from the customs buildings at one end of Rue Canusa and a survey marker at the other.

International Border superimposed on a photograph of Rue Canusa
Looking East on Rue Canusa in August, 2019

What Language Do You Speak on Rue Canusa?

If you speak English or French, you’re all set. All federal operations (read: customs) on both sides of the border are fully bilingual. In town, you will find both languages used in many places. However, people will favor English on the Vermont side of the border and French on the Québec side.

What Else is There to do near Rue Canusa?

There are so many other things to do and places to explore on both sides of the border year round. From skiing and snow sports in the winter to swimming and boating in the summer to leaf peeping and maple syrup in the fall, there are activities for everyone.

Activities in Canada

The closest and most popular attraction to Rue Canusa on the Canadian side of the border are Québec’s National Parks. About 25 kilometers to the north, you’ll find Parc National du Mont Orford, which is famous for its breathtaking mountain landscapes and outdoor recreation. And if that’s not enough, there are 4 additional National Parks within a two to three hour drive of Rue Canusa, as well as numerous nature preserves, provincial parks, and lakes.

But what if you’re not the outdoorsy type? Montréal, Sherbrooke, and Québec City are all less than a three-hour drive from Rue Canusa. All three cities are rich in culture, history, and activities both indoors and out. And if you’re willing to travel a little further, Toronto, Ottawa, and the Canadian Maritimes are all easily within reach.

A warm summer day on a river in Ontario's cottage country
Soaking in Ontario’s beautiful Cottage Country north of Toronto in August, 2019

Activities in the United States

While the northeastern United States does not have the National Parks that Québec boasts, all of the northeast states have amazing state parks, forests, and outdoor recreation. You can easily reach both Boston and New York City in a day’s drive. And if you’re craving some of the best seafood in the world, the same goes for downeast Maine. And while you’re there, don’t forget to visit Acadia National Park, either.

A mountain landscape is lit up with brilliant fall colors in Maine
Don’t miss fall colors in northern New England, such as this vista from the Height of Land Overlook in Maine.

Haskell Free Library and Opera House

About a kilometer east of Rue Canusa, you’ll find the Haskell Free Library and Opera House. Intentionally built straddling the international border, the fully bilingual library has served both nations since it opened in 1904. Furthermore, it’s the only performance space in the world where the stage and the audience are in two different countries. There’s actually a running joke that it’s the only library in the United States without books and the only opera house in the United States without a stage. The bookshelves and the opera stage are both on the Canadian side of the building.

You can enter the library from either the US or Canada and move around freely while inside, but once you’re done, the rule is simple: you must return to the country from which you came.

Bookshelves inside the Haskell Free Library
Browse the shelves inside the Haskell Free Library for titles in both English and French
Flags mark the international border inside the Haskell Free Library and Opera House
Look for Horace the Bear marking the international border inside the Haskell Free Library

Conclusion

Rue Canusa is one of the most unique streets in the world. Whether you’re driving, walking, biking, or something else, you’ll be able to say you’ve done something very few other people in the world have. But don’t get caught up in the moment. While the US and Canada are very friendly, they both take border security very seriously. Respect the laws, soak in the uniqueness of the moment, and you’re bound to have a safe, fun, and memorable time.

Resources

Top Photo: Driving Rue Canusa
Stanstead, Québec, Canada – August, 2019

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6 Lesser Known New England Spots to See Amazing Fall Colors https://blog.matthewgove.com/2021/10/01/6-lesser-known-new-england-spots-to-see-amazing-fall-colors/ https://blog.matthewgove.com/2021/10/01/6-lesser-known-new-england-spots-to-see-amazing-fall-colors/#comments Fri, 01 Oct 2021 16:00:00 +0000 https://blog.matthewgove.com/?p=3284 As a native of New England, the fall colors season is my favorite time of year. The air is cool, crisp, and fresh, and the summer tourists have long since gone home. Fall foliage lights up the landscape in brilliant shades of gold, orange, and red. It’s a magical window […]

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As a native of New England, the fall colors season is my favorite time of year. The air is cool, crisp, and fresh, and the summer tourists have long since gone home. Fall foliage lights up the landscape in brilliant shades of gold, orange, and red. It’s a magical window as we transition out of summer, but before the long, cold winter sets in.

While fall colors used to be local New England tradition, they now attract visitors from all over the world. As you can expect, the more popular areas often attract large crowds. These crowds take a lot of the magic of New England fall colors out of the air. Thankfully, there are plenty of places to see amazing fall colors in places that are both off-the-beaten-path and places where you wouldn’t normally think of fall foliage. Here are six of my favorite places in New England to escape the crowds and see some of the best fall foliage the region has to offer.

1. Merritt Parkway, Connecticut

Peak Fall Colors: Late October

The Merritt Parkway runs parallel to Interstate 95 across the western third of Connecticut. With its western terminus sitting just 25 miles from downtown Manhattan, it’s an easy day trip from both New York City and Hartford. The parkway is incredibly scenic for being in such a densely populated area. As a result, it’s one of the most underrated spots in southern New England to see fall colors.

When you drive the Merritt Parkway, you’ll experience the Scenic Gateway to New England. Trailers and commercial vehicles are banned, so you’ll only be sharing the road with passenger cars. With a very old-time and classic New England feel, the elaborate architecture of the Merritt Parkway’s overpasses alone is worth the drive. The trees are close to the road and often overhang the road like a tunnel. During peak fall colors, it’s absolutely spectacular.

Unfortunately, being so close to New York City also comes with its disadvantages. Traffic can be horrendous if you hit the Merritt Parkway at the wrong time of day (read: rush hour). Furthermore, many drivers consider speed limits and yield signs to be just a suggestion, which can make for white knuckle driving during rush hour. The parkway has very narrow lanes and no shoulders. As a result, accidents are fairly common, and one minor fender bender can shut down the entire parkway.

Under no circumstance should you use those disadvantages as an excuse to not drive the Merritt Parkway. Just try to avoid it at rush hour. If you run into traffic, don’t hesitate to get off and drive north (away from I-95) on the surface streets. You don’t have to go far to get out of the congestion, away from civilization, and out into nature where you’ll have the breathtaking New England fall colors all to yourself.

Merritt Parkway near Bridgeport, Connecticut – August, 2006

2. Cape Cod, Massachusetts

Peak Fall Colors: Late October/Early November

OK, I’m a bit biased here because I grew up on Cape Cod and my family still lives there. But it doesn’t diminish that the Cape is absolutely spectacular in the fall. In fact, September and October are probably my two favorite months to be on Cape Cod. The summer tourists have long since gone home, so crowds are virtually non-existent. However, do note that things may be a bit busier than normal, as people from both Boston and New York have been using their Cape homes to escape the city during the COVID-19 pandemic.

As popular as Cape Cod is during the summer, most people don’t consider it for viewing fall colors. Not that I’m complaining, I like it when it’s quiet. But most people instead look to northern New England and the western half of Massachusetts for the best fall foliage viewing. Cape Cod’s world-famous beaches combined with peak fall colors provide you with an intense sensory overload of colors that cover nearly the entire color wheel.

So where would I go to see fall colors on Cape Cod? The most scenic drive hands down in Route 6A. Take the first exit after you go over the Sagamore Bridge and follow Route 6A down Cape to its eastern terminus in Orleans. You’ll pass beaches, nature preserves, and quaint towns. From Orleans, you have a few options. You can continue further on US-6 East up to Provincetown and take in the fall colors along the Cape Cod National Seashore. Or, if you’re ready to head home, just get on the Mid-Cape Highway (US-6) going west. It’s about a 40 minute drive back to the Sagamore Bridge. There are plenty more options to see fall colors on Cape Cod, but if you only had one day, I’d drive Route 6A.

Finally, if you’re considering a trip to Cape Cod to take in the fall colors, pay at least some attention to the weather during the two or three weeks before you arrive. Late season hurricanes and early season nor’easters occasionally impact Cape Cod in mid-to-late October. These storms can (and more often than not do) blow all the leaves off the trees before fall colors peak. The last thing you want is to make the trip only to find a recent storm ruined peak fall colors for you. Thankfully, these October storms are the exception instead of the rule on Cape Cod.

Fall colors in the sky in Woods Hole, MA
Woods Hole, Massachusetts – October, 2014. Nobody said that fall colors had to be relegated to the trees.

3. Mount Washington, New Hampshire

Peak Fall Colors: Late September to Mid-October

One of the great things about being somewhere you have elevation is that it extends the duration of the peak fall colors. That peak starts at the top of the mountain and progressively works its way down to the bottom. Instead of just having a one or two week window of peak fall colors, that window can be as long as 4 to 6 weeks, depending on the height of the mountain. That’s part of what makes fall colors in places like Colorado so spectacular.

You can take full advantage of this strategy right in New England. At 6,288 feet (1,917 m) above sea level, the summit of Mt. Washington is both the highest point in the northeast and the most prominent feature east of the Mississippi River. By varying your elevation, the window of peak fall colors on Mt. Washington often lasts at least three to four weeks, if not more.

Furthermore, the summit of Mt. Washington has the added advantage that it’s above the tree line. Indeed, on a clear day, you can see Canada, Maine, Vermont, and Massachusetts from the summit. With an unobstructed view from the summit, being able to see the blanket of brilliant New England fall colors for miles and miles is nothing short of breathtaking. Just be aware that the road up the mountain is very steep, narrow, and winding with sheer dropoffs and no guardrails. If that type of driving is not for you, take the train to the top or hire one of the tour companies to drive you up.

“The Worst Weather in the World”

If you decide to venture all the way to the summit, make sure you bring warm clothing. There’s a reason the observatory uses the slogan “the worst weather in the world.” The summit of Mt. Washington is famous for having some of the worst weather in the world. The summit can be 30 to 50 degrees (Fahrenheit) colder than the base of the mountain. Freezing temperatures and snow can occur year round.

In addition to its frigid temperatures, the summit is notorious for its relentless winds because it’s high enough to pierce the jet stream. Tropical storm force winds are a routine occurrence. On 12 April, 1934, anemometers at the summit of Mt. Washington recorded a wind gust of 231 mph (372 km/h). To this day, that record still stands as the strongest wind gust ever recorded with an anemometer in the Northern Hemisphere. On a side note, those 300-plus mph wind gusts recorded in Oklahoma tornadoes in 1999 and 2013 were measured with doppler radar, not with anemometers. That’s why Mt. Washington’s record still stands today.

Scenic vistas from the summit of Mt. Washington
View from the Summit of Mt. Washington in October, 2015

Tip: After visiting Mt. Washington, drive the nearby Kancamagus Highway (NH-112) through the breathtaking White Mountain National Forest. You’ll see covered bridges, beautiful mountain landscapes, and some of the best fall colors in New Hampshire.

4. Rangeley Lakes Scenic Byway and the Height of Land Overlook, Maine

Peak Fall Colors: Early to Mid-October

Tucked away in the corner of Maine near the triple point where Maine, New Hampshire, and Québec come together, the Height of Land Overlook is a true hidden gem. The blanket of brilliant warm fall colors on the mountains rising up from the sparkling blue waters of three large lakes is simply heavenly. The entire scenic byway is far enough off the beaten path that there are very few people up there even at the height of fall colors. It’s actually closer to Sherbrooke, Québec than any significant population center in either Maine or New Hampshire.

In addition to the Rangeley Lakes Scenic Byway, the area is full of beautiful drives that are just spectacular when fall colors are at their peak. From the town of Rangeley, head west on Highway 16 to Errol, NH. Alternatively, head north on Highway 27 to the Canadian border. For even more adventure, cross the border into Québec and complete the loop.

The Height of Land Overlook in Maine has some of the most breathtaking fall colors in New England.
View from the Height of Land Overlook – October, 2015

5. The Northeast Kingdom, Vermont

Peak Fall Colors: Late September to Mid-October

Vermont is the most popular destination in New England to see fall colors. Not surprisingly, getting away from crowds can be a bit of a challenge. Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom is exactly where you would expect it to be: tucked away in the northeast corner of the state in the heart of the breathtaking Green Mountains. You’ll find stunning vistas and beautiful landscapes nearly everywhere you look. Covering over 2,000 square miles, the Northeast Kingdom is one of the most sparsely populated areas in Vermont.

Like the Height of Land Overlook, the Northeast Kingdom is far enough off the beaten path that few people venture up there. Instead, most leaf peepers stay further west, near Montpelier and Burlington. The many ski resorts near the city provide easy access to pretty spectacular fall colors. You shouldn’t have too many issues with crowds in the Northeast Kingdom. However, if you do, don’t be afraid to hop across the border into New York, New Hampshire, or Québec. You’ll often find much smaller crowds there.

Beautiful Mountains in Vermon's Northeast Kingdom
Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom near the Canadian Border – August, 2019

6. QC-247 and Autoroute 10: The Gateway to Fall Colors in Québec

Peak Fall Colors: Late September to Early October

Okay, this is technically not New England, but hear me out. With Canada having reopened its border to fully vaccinated travelers, don’t rule out fall colors north of the border. The landscapes can be even more scenic than New England, and crowds are few and far between. Fall foliage viewing opportunities in Québec alone cover more land area than New England several times over. And southern Québec is full of something you won’t find too many of in New England: National Parks.

Heading east out of Montréal, you’ll find four National Parks within 25 miles (40 km) of the US border. They’re all within a three hour drive from downtown Montréal. Head north from Montréal an you’ll find even more than the parks listed below.

National ParkNearest City or Town
Parc National du Mont Saint-BrunoLongueuil / Montréal-Est
Parc National de YamaskaGranby
Parc National du Mont OrfordMagog
Parc National du Mont MéganticNotre Dame des Bois
Parc National de FrontenacSainte Praxède
List of National Parks near the US Border east of Montréal, Québec

If the National Parks leave you craving even more fall colors, head to any of the lakes that cover the southern Québec landscape. You’ll find the most accessible lakes near Sherbrooke and Magog. However, you shouldn’t stop there. Just 60 miles (100 km) northeast of Sherbrooke, you’ll find Lac St. François, which sits inside of Parc National du Frontenac, as well as Lac Mégantic. While much of the town of Lac Mégantic burned down following the infamous rail disaster in 2013, scenery around the lake that goes by the same name is simply breathtaking.

Quebec's Parc National du Mont Orford on a rainy day
Parc National du Mont Orford near Magog, Québec in August, 2019. Both times I’ve visited, it’s been pouring, but even in the rain, it’s spectacular.

Don’t Be Intimidated By the Language Barrier

One of the primary reasons there are so fewer crowds viewing fall colors in Québec is due to many Americans being hesitant to cross the border because of the language barrier. If you’re near a major population center, such as Montréal or Sherbrooke, or a popular tourist destination, such as the national parks, you will not have any major issues speaking English only. However, once you get away from the cities and the tourist spots, it’s all French. You will stumble across people that speak English, but don’t count on it.

Like the United States, Canada’s federal government runs all of its National Parks. Because English and French are both official languages in Canada, everything inside the National Parks is bilingual. However, be aware that French is the only official language in Québec, so outside of the National Parks, road signs (and most everything else) are in French only.

COVID-19 Restrictions Entering Canada

Please obey all rules, regulations, and restrictions that Canada has put in place due to the COVID-19 pandemic. While we went over the process when Canada first reopened its border back in August, please visit the Canada Border Services Agency (CBSA) website for the most up-to-date requirements you need to enter Canada. While there are plenty of border crossings between New England and Québec, I make no guarantee that the smaller border crossings are open during the COVID-19 pandemic. Please consult with either the CBSA or with US Customs to get their latest hours of operation.

Conclusion

Peak fall colors is a truly magical time of year in New England. The soft warm colors of the changing leaves against a brilliant blue sky only makes that crisp and clean fall air taste even better. Even through the leaf peeper crowds have grown in recent years, there are still plenty of places to get away from the masses, and enjoy the peace and serenity of having the spectacular New England fall colors to yourself.

Finally, while this post has focused on New England, don’t forget about New York. While upstate offers the best viewing opportunities, the entire State of New York has pretty amazing fall colors, too. Sitting just across the river from Vermont with plenty of wilderness to offer, New York is an easy escape from the crowds that can gather in parts of New England. Where is your favorite spot to see fall colors?

Top Photo: Peak Fall Colors on the Talimena Scenic Byway
Talihina, Oklahoma – November, 2013

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Want to Visit Canada Now that the Border is Open? Here’s Everything You Need to Know. https://blog.matthewgove.com/2021/08/13/want-to-visit-canada-now-that-the-border-is-open-heres-everything-you-need-to-know/ Fri, 13 Aug 2021 16:00:00 +0000 https://blog.matthewgove.com/?p=2774 In August, 2019, I made my final border crossing on an incredible road trip across Mexico, the United States, and Canada. Crossing from Stanstead, Québec to Derby Line, Vermont went so quickly and smoothly it was nothing more than an afterthought. My focus was on making it to the Haskell […]

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In August, 2019, I made my final border crossing on an incredible road trip across Mexico, the United States, and Canada. Crossing from Stanstead, Québec to Derby Line, Vermont went so quickly and smoothly it was nothing more than an afterthought. My focus was on making it to the Haskell Free Library before it closed for the day.

Little did I know at the time, that would be my final cross-border adventure before international borders slammed shut less than six months later as the COVID-19 pandemic swept across the world. A year and a half later, some countries are cautiously beginning to reopen. As of 9 August, 2021, fully vaccinated Americans can now visit Canada for non-essential purposes.

Sign for the Ambassador Bridge to Canada in Detroit, Michigan
Sign for the Ambassador Bridge on Interstate 75 in Detroit, Michigan – August, 2019

However, if you think the border crossing will be as easy as it was in 2019, you’re in for a big surprise. There’s a lot of documentation you’ll need to be allowed into Canada. We’ll go through all of the paperwork you’ll need, as well as the rules you’ll need to follow while you’re in Canada. Make sure you have all of your documentation in order before leaving home. You will not be allowed into Canada without it.

First, Determine If You’re Eligible to Enter Canada

To save yourself a lot of headaches, the Canada Border Services Agency (CBSA) has a free online self-assessment to determine if you’re eligible to enter Canada.

We strongly recommend you use this prior to departing for the border. That way, if you’re not eligible to enter Canada, you’ll save yourself the trouble of traveling to and from the border.

Use the ArriveCAN App to Manage All of Your Documents

To make it easier to manage and submit documentation to enter Canada, the Government of Canada created ArriveCAN, a free and secure app. Submitting all of your documentation prior to arriving at the border significantly expedites the amount of time you’ll need to spend at customs.

You can download the ArriveCAN app for free from the Apple App Store or from Google Play. You can also access ArriveCAN from a web browser.

Welcome sign at the border in Windsor, Ontario, Canada
Welcome Sign at the Port of Entry to Enter Windsor, Ontario, Canada – August, 2019

You’ll Need a Negative COVID-19 PCR Test Taken No More Than 72 Hours Prior to Your Arrival in Canada.

Regardless of your vaccination status, Canada still requires every individual that crosses its border to present a negative COVID-19 test. For Americans entering Canada, the testing requirements are simple.

  • The test must be administered in the US no more than 72 hours prior to your arrival at the border.
  • You must take a molecular (PCR) test. Those are the “brain tickler” tests where they swab your nose with a long Q-Tip. If you present any other type of test to the CBSA, including rapid and at-home tests, you will be denied entry into Canada.

Canada no longer requires post-arrival testing for fully vaccinated travelers. However, you may be randomly selected to complete a molecular (PCR) COVID-19 test at the border. If you’re selected, please comply with border officials. They will send you back to the US if you don’t.

Vaccinated Individuals no Longer Need to Quarantine, but You Will Need a Quarantine Plan

Fully vaccinated individuals are now exempt from Canada’s mandatory quarantine. However, the CBSA requires that you submit a quarantine plan in case you test positive for COVID-19 while you’re in Canada. Submit your quarantine plan through the ArriveCAN app prior to arriving at the border.

The easiest quarantine plan is to stay at a quarantine hotel authorized by the Government of Canada. However, doing so has some drawbacks. You will have to pay your own expenses in the event you need to quarantine. Two weeks of hotel expenses, meals, and more, can add up quick.

Your quarantine plan must show that you will:

  • Remain completely isolated from all other people for 14 days or possibly longer.
  • Have access to the necessities of life, including food, water, medication, and heat/air conditioning without leaving quarantine.
  • Avoid contact with all others who did not travel with you.
  • Have no visits from family or guests.

Anyone who is not a Canadian citizen and does not have a suitable quarantine plan will be denied entry into Canada.

If You Are Required to Quarantine, Make Daily Reports Through the ArriveCAN App

Use the ArriveCAN app to confirm that you’ve arrived at your place of quarantine. Complete daily COVID-19 symptom self-assessments until the end of your quarantine. Expect calls, emails, and visits from the Government of Canada to ensure you’re not breaking quarantine. If you’re caught breaking quarantine, you can face up to 6 months in prison and/or up to $750,000 in fines.

If you’re required to quarantine, you will be tested on the 8th day of quarantine. Should the test comes back positive, you will be required to quarantine longer.

Leaving Canada Prior to the End of Your Quarantine

You may choose to leave Canada prior to the end of your quarantine, as long as you remain aysmptomatic. Please note that you must get authorization from a quarantine officer in order to leave if you are staying at a federally designated quarantine facility. As you depart Canada, you must comply with several rules.

  • Continue to quarantine yourself until your departure date
  • Wear a mask when you depart Canada
  • Minimize contact with the general public while you’re traveling from your quarantine facility to the border. Pay for gas at the pump and only use the drive-through when getting food.
  • Comply with all rules and regulations in your destination country.

Please note that if you attempt to leave Canada while showing symptoms, you may only exit using a private vehicle through a land border. You will not be allowed on public transportation, including airplanes.

Proof of Vaccination is Required to Enter Canada

If you are not vaccinated and are not a Canadian citizen, you will not be allowed to enter Canada. It’s as simple as that. Submit your proof of vaccination through the ArriveCAN app prior to arriving at the border. If you received your vaccine in the US, use your CDC Vaccination Card as proof. Your documentation must adhere to the following rules.

  • Proof of vaccination must be in English or French (or a certified translation)
  • In addition to submitting proof through the ArriveCAN app, you must carry a paper or digital copy of your vaccine documentation (in English or French) when you arrive at the border.
  • You must have reached full vaccination status at least 2 weeks prior to arriving in Canada.

Like the US, Canada defines fully vaccinated as 2 weeks after your second shot, or 2 weeks after your shot for a single dose vaccine. The CBSA currently accepts four vaccines, including all three that the United States has authorized for use.

  • Pfizer-BioNTech
  • Moderna
  • AstraZeneca/COVISHIELD
  • Janssen/Johnson & Johnson

If you received a vaccine that is not one of the four listed above, you are not eligible to enter Canada.

Don’t Even Think of Using Fake Vaccine Documents

The CBSA recently fined 2 Americans $20,000 each for trying to enter Canada using fake vaccine cards. The maximum penalty for submitting false vaccination information is a fine of $750,000 and 6 months in prison. Don’t even think about doing it.

Americans Showing Symptoms of Any Illness Will Be Denied Entry into Canada

It frustrates me to no avail that we have to keep saying this over and over. If you’re sick, stay home and get better. Whatever you had planned will still be there, and you’ll enjoy it much more when you’re feeling better.

Check With Local Governments in the Province or Territory You’re Visiting for any Additional Entry Restrictions

Canada implements its COVID-19 restrictions very similarly to the United States. The federal government issues general rules, including for travel and the border. But they leave figuring out details of local restrictions to provincial, territorial, and local governments.

Check with the governments of the province and city you’ll be staying in to ensure you’re complying with all entry restrictions that extend beyond what the federal government requires. The last thing you want to do is comply with all the federal restrictions only to get in trouble because you weren’t aware of a rule at the provincial or city level.

Throughout the pandemic, Ontario and Québec have both been particularly strict. On the other hand, Manitoba, Saskatchewan, and Alberta have been much more lenient.

Unvaccinated Children 12 and Under May Enter Canada with Fully Vaccinated Parents, But There’s a Catch

Unvaccinated children must quarantine for 14 days upon arrival in Canada. They must also take a molecular (PCR) test on the 8th day of quarantine. Once they’re out of quarantine, they must avoid group settings and places where people gather.

Please be aware this rule will likely change once health authorities approve vaccines for children 12 and under. Check with the Government of Canada for the latest information if you’re traveling with unvaccinated children.

You’ll Have a Larger Choice of Airports for Inbound International Flights into Canada

When the US-Canada border first closed in March, 2020, the Government of Canada directed all international flights carrying inbound passengers to land at one of four airports.

AirportProvince
Vancouver International AirportBritish Columbia
Toronto Pearson International AirportOntario
Calgary International AirportAlberta
Montréal-Trudeau International Airport
Aéroport International Montréal-Trudeau
Québec

If you’re going to be flying into Canada, we have some good news. The federal government has expanded the list of approved airports that can accept international flights. In addition to the original four, you can now land at any of these five airports.

AirportProvince
Halifax Stanfield International AirportNova Scotia
Québec City Jean Lesage International Airport
Aéroport International Jean Lesage
Québec
Ottawa Macdonald-Cartier International AirportOntario
Winnipeg James Armstrong Richardson International AirportManitoba
Edmonton International AirportAlberta
Additional airports that accept inbound international flights into Canada, as of 9 August, 2021

If you’re traveling by land, all ports of entry on the US-Canada border are open. However, please advised that they may have reduced or altered their hours of operation due to the ongoing pandemic. You can get the current hours of operation on the CBSA’s website.

All of the Pre-COVID Requirements to Enter Canada are Still in Place

Finally, don’t forget that all of the requirements to enter Canada prior to the COVID-19 pandemic are still all in place. Customs will still ask you everything they asked you in 2019 and years prior. Don’t try to bring in any food, weapons, drugs, or anything else you shouldn’t be.

Returning to the United States

There are currently few restrictions on US Citizens returning to the United States. If you’re returning to the US by air, you must present a negative COVID-19 test taken within three days of your departure or proof of recovery from a COVID-19 infection within the last 90 days.

You’ll submit the test results to the airline prior to boarding the plane. Under US federal law, airlines must deny boarding to all passengers on US-bound flights who do not provide proof of a negative test or recovery, regardless of their vaccination status.

At land borders coming into the United States, you will pass through customs as you always have. US Customs and Border Protection does not require proof of negative test or vaccination for US Citizens to re-enter the United States at land ports.

United States Port of Entry in Derby Line, Vermont
Waiting in Line to Re-Enter the United States at Derby Line, Vermont – August, 2019

References

ReferenceSource
Entry and Exit for Vaccinated TravelersGovernment of Canada Travel and Tourism
Quarantine RequirementsGovernment of Canada Travel and Tourism
Proof of VaccinationGovernment of Canada Travel and Tourism
Crossing the BorderCanada Border Services Agency
ArriveCAN AppPublic Health Agency of Canada

Conclusion

The partial reopening of the border into Canada is a beacon of hope in what’s been a brutal year and a half of closures. While we still have a long way to go in the fight against COVID-19, just remember these restrictions are only temporary.

I am certainly looking forward to when we can once again cross the border like we did in 2019. Until then, make sure you have all your required documents, be transparent and comply with border officials, and most importantly, enjoy your stay in Canada.

Top Photo: Fork in the Autoroute Just Ouside of Montréal
Les Cèdres, Québec, Canada – August, 2019

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7 Powerful Lessons From a Cross-Country COVID-19 Road Trip https://blog.matthewgove.com/2021/04/09/7-powerful-lessons-from-a-cross-country-covid-19-road-trip/ https://blog.matthewgove.com/2021/04/09/7-powerful-lessons-from-a-cross-country-covid-19-road-trip/#comments Fri, 09 Apr 2021 16:00:00 +0000 https://blog.matthewgove.com/?p=2300 It’s been more than a year since the COVID-19 pandemic locked us down and isolated us from our loved ones. Needless to say, it’s been a long year, and I know I’m not the only one who is eager to start traveling recreationally again. Since it’s easiest to stay isolated […]

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It’s been more than a year since the COVID-19 pandemic locked us down and isolated us from our loved ones. Needless to say, it’s been a long year, and I know I’m not the only one who is eager to start traveling recreationally again.

Since it’s easiest to stay isolated on road trips, experts agree they will be the first facet of travel to re-emerge from the pandemic lockdowns. While it was anything but recreational, I recently drove across the United States at the height of the COVID-19 pandemic. I want to share my lessons learned and observations made so you can plan your next road trip once COVID-19 finally becomes a thing of the past.

1. The Country is Bitterly Divided

I’ve taken road trips to all corners of the United States over the past decade. Not once have I ever experienced the level of hate, bitterness, and animosity directed towards me as I did on this trip.

There is no better example of the bitterness right now than my state, Arizona. Its toxic political culture coupled with the corrosiveness of a very close election has turned the state into a cesspool of hostility and resentment. Over the past year, Arizona has been in the news far too many times for all the wrong reasons.

For me, it all started when mask mandates started to go into effect in the Spring of 2020. Regardless of whether or not you chose to wear a mask, you were constantly being heckled, harassed, and berated in public. While it’s easy to laugh off childish name calling, I draw the line at the threat of physical violence.

COVID-19 Mask Reminder on an electronic freeway sign in New York
Masking Public Safety Announcement on the Mario Cuomo Bridge near Tarrytown, New York in February, 2021

Once I started getting death threats at the supermarket over masks, it had escalated beyond an acceptable level. By the time it got to the point where I couldn’t do mundane tasks such as getting the mail and taking out the trash without having to constantly face death threats or the risk of being attacked, it had already forced my hand. And yes, I had people try to attack me on more than one occasion. This had spiraled well beyond just masks and the election.

Bottom line is this. I expect that I was so frequently targeted because I was alone all the time. The vast majority of people you’ll run into remain warm, friendly, and welcoming. However, expect that no matter where you go, someone will be judging you…and not in a good way.

2. But We Can Still All Agree on One Thing…We’re Sick of Covid

These days, it seems like we can’t get any more divided. With record levels of animosity, we can’t agree on anything. Maybe with the exception of agreeing to disagree.

Interestingly, I noticed one common thread in every location I passed through on this trip. And it goes deeper than “the sky is blue” or “water is wet”. From the reddest of conservative areas to the bluest of liberal areas, and everywhere in between, we are all sick and tired of dealing with COVID-19. I don’t know about you, but I’m sure yearning to get my old life back.

Sunshine and palm trees at El Malecón on a 2019 road trip to Puerto Peñasco, Mexico
Adventuring in Puerto Peñasco, Sonora, Mexico in August, 2019. Boy, does that trip seem like a lifetime ago.

3. Rules Vary Wildly From State to State

One of the rules I stuck to on this trip was to treat each state like it was its own country. Why you ask? Because the rules and restrictions vary so much from state to state. What’s completely acceptable in one state could land you a hefty fine in the next. Even more frustrating, in some states, the rules can be completely different going from county to county or town to town.

Look at some of the southwestern states as an example. States like Arizona and Texas have issued few restrictions with little to no penalty for violating them. However, cross into New Mexico and it’s a much different story.

As soon as you cross the state line, they make it very clear that masks are required statewide, capacity limits are in effect in many sectors, and some businesses remain closed altogether. The state will fine you if they catch you violating those restrictions.

Electronic sign stating casino is temporarily closed due to COVID-19 near Albuquerque, New Mexico
Shuttered Casino near Albuquerque, New Mexico in February, 2021

New Mexico is also one of the few places that actually enforces its COVID-19 restrictions, which is a perfect segue into our next observation.

4. COVID-19 Restrictions are Rarely, if ever, Enforced

I really surprised me just how few places actually enforce their COVID-19 restrictions. When I passed through Amarillo, Texas, you’d never know we were in the middle of a pandemic. Bars, restaurants, theatres, malls, and museums were all packed. I did not see a single mask or anyone even pretending to stay socially distanced. And this was on a Wednesday afternoon, back when Texas still had a statewide mask mandate and capacity restrictions in place.

Sadly, I found this to be the rule, rather than the exception. While Amarillo was by far the most flagrant example of this utter disregard on the trip, I saw it in just about every state I passed through. We’re all fed up with COVID-19. I get the pandemic fatigue. I want to go back to normal just as badly as you do. Unfortunately, the longer we fight the restrictions, the longer it will take for us to reach normality.

Thankfully, though, the majority of people still comply with COVID-19 restrictions despite the fact that they’re largely unenforced. However, there remains enough resistance to make it both concerning, and a times, dangerous.

5. States Fall into One of Two Categories

And those categories are:

  1. They take COVID-19 seriously
  2. They openly mock it and brag about flouting their own guidelines and restrictions

Sometimes, the most amazing things happen when you least expect them. That was certainly the case as I crossed the St. Francis River.

For those of you who are not familiar with the area, the St. Francis River separates Paragould, Arkansas from Cardwell, Missouri. Both towns are in a rural, deeply conservative area.

Map showing location of Paragould, Arkansas and Cardwell, Missouri, which I passed through on my COVID-19 road trip

At the time of my trip, Arkansas had a statewide mask mandate. Missouri did not. As I drove down Main Street in both Paragould and Cardwell, the difference could not have been more stark. Everyone on the Arkansas side of the river was masked. Not a single person on the Missouri side was. Even When I came upon a fender bender leaving Cardwell, even the public safety officers at the scene had opted against putting masks on.

6. You Don’t See Any Out-of-State License Plates

I love playing the license plate game on long road trips. When I took my three-country road trip in 2019, I saw license plates from all 50 US States (plus Washington, DC), 10 Canadian Provinces, and 8 Mexican States. Contrast that to when I took my first COVID-19 road trip to Oregon in July, 2020. I only saw license plates from 6 states: Arizona, California, Nevada, Idaho, Oregon, and Washington.

On this trip, it didn’t take long to notice that the freeways were basically void of passenger cars. The pandemic had kept everyone at home, which led to another fascinating observation. In normal times, when you approach a state line, you start seeing license plates from the state you’re about to cross into. There was none of that driving across the country at the height of the COVID-19 pandemic. People were that reluctant to travel out-of-state.

Not surprisingly, the results of the license plate game were putrid compared to 2019. I passed through 16 states to get across the country. Besides those 16 states, I only saw license plates from two other states.

  • An SUV with Florida plates near Albuquerque, New Mexico
  • A small hatchback with Alabama plates in eastern Oklahoma

7. With the Right Safety Protocols, You Can Safely Enjoy a Cross-Country Road Trip in the Age of Covid

While I can’t under any good conscience recommend it right now (unless you’re fully vaccinated), it is possible to safely drive across the country. However, COVID-19 safety does come at the expense of comfort, and to some degree, fun.

Yes, I cut myself off from hotels, public restrooms, and all other public buildings. I spent nearly 48 straight hours in the truck, peeing in Gatorade bottles, and camping in the middle of an ice storm on the side of a mountain in Kentucky on just one leg of the trip. But I argue that it was fun in its own way. Regardless of the circumstances, any trip is only as fun and adventurous as you allow it to be.

Heavy snow falls on a residential street in Norman, Oklahoma during the 2021 Polar Vortex
Even Mother Nature got in on making this trip an adventure. The Polar Vortex dumped over a foot of snow on Norman, Oklahoma and dropped wind chills to -35°F.

Conclusion

Driving across the country unvaccinated at the peak of the COVID-19 pandemic was a memorable experience I won’t forget any time soon. It’s certainly not for the faint of heart, though. However, with the proper planning and safety protocols in place you can make it to your destination safely. Make sure you know exactly what you’re getting yourself into, and have a plan in case anything goes wrong.

That wraps up the series on my cross-country COVID-19 road trip. I hope you’ve enjoyed reading it as much as I’ve enjoyed reliving it. If you have any questions or comments, please leave them in the comments section below or email me directly. We’ll be back to our normal content next week, traveling the world through data, maps, and photography. Have a great weekend, and see you next week.

Top Image: Freeway Junction Sign on My Cross-Country COVID-19 Road Trip
Morgantown, West Virginia – Feburary, 2021

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12 Secrets to Plan a Safe Cross-Country Road Trip During the Pandemic https://blog.matthewgove.com/2021/03/05/12-secrets-to-plan-a-safe-cross-country-road-trip-during-the-pandemic/ https://blog.matthewgove.com/2021/03/05/12-secrets-to-plan-a-safe-cross-country-road-trip-during-the-pandemic/#comments Fri, 05 Mar 2021 17:00:00 +0000 https://blog.matthewgove.com/?p=2203 After a year living with restrictions from the COVID-19 pandemic, we’re all wondering when it will be safe to travel again. While I certainly don’t expect to be hopping on an airplane any time soon, I’m growing cautiously optimistic that we’ll be able to safely resume road trips in the […]

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After a year living with restrictions from the COVID-19 pandemic, we’re all wondering when it will be safe to travel again. While I certainly don’t expect to be hopping on an airplane any time soon, I’m growing cautiously optimistic that we’ll be able to safely resume road trips in the not-too-distant future. In the meantime, it is still possible to take a road trip. However, I can’t say I recommend it at this point unless it’s some kind of emergency.

You may have noticed that I’ve been absent from posting on here the past few weeks. The reason is because I have been on an odyssey of a road trip across the United States. I am now in mandatory quarantine at my final destination and will be publishing a series of posts over the next several weeks about what taking a road trip across the United States in the middle of both the winter and a once in a century pandemic was like.

Am I Crazy? Why the Hell Am I Traveling?

Before diving in, I want to emphasize that this trip is not a vacation or a holiday. The decision to travel was not an easy one, and the trip took months of planning to pull off safely and successfully. In the end, it boiled down to a couple of reasons.

  1. The primary purpose of the road trip is to be with my family and help them through the rest of the pandemic. My mom and dad both fall into the higher risk category for COVID-19. Any way I can help them with things like running errands and grocery shopping is that much less they have to worry about.
  2. Despite the fact that I don’t touch politics with a 10-foot pole and consider myself an apolitical person, I have received numerous threats of politically-motivated violence in Arizona going back to last summer. It’s only been getting worse over the past few months. Many of my family and friends have been legitimately concerned about my safety.

The Bubble: Your Secret to a Safe COVID-19 Road Trip

The bubble didn’t become a mainstream part of the COVID-19 vocabulary until the NBA and the NHL resumed their seasons last summer. Both leagues wanted to establish a COVID-free environment that was isolated from the outside world to safely conduct their playoffs.

The two leagues used a slightly different strategy to establish their bubbles. The NBA brought all of its teams into a single bubble in Orlando, Florida. On the other hand, the NHL used two bubbles. Western Conference teams went into a bubble in Edmonton, Alberta, while Eastern Conference teams established a bubble in Toronto, Ontario. Using rigorous testing and strict entry and exit protocols, neither league reported a single COVID-19 case the entire two-plus months they were in the bubble.

General Bubble Strategy

You can establish a bubble for any reason. In fact, I highly recommend it to stay safe during the pandemic. All bubbles should follow the same basic rules.

  1. Establish a strict and specific protocol for how people must safely enter and exit the bubble.
  2. You can put as many or as few people in the bubble as you wish. However, I recommend minimizing the number of people in your bubble.
  3. Don’t go in and out of the bubble. Once you’re in the bubble, plan to stay there for the duration.

My General Bubble Strategy for Road Trips

We’ll go into details shortly, but I tried to keep my general road trip bubble strategy simple.

  1. Stay completely isolated except for when I stay with people I highly trust
  2. Establish a “clean” zone in the house and truck. Nothing enters that zone without being sanitized and/or quarantined first.
  3. Keep all “contaminated” items in a designated, sealed off area. Anything that enters from or has contact with the outside world without being sanitized or quarantined is considered “contaminated”

The Bubble is not Foolproof

No matter how well you think you’ve set up your bubble, it is not 100% foolproof. Every bubble has its weak spots and vulnerabilities. You can rest assured that the virus can and will exploit those vulnerabilities. The better you understand those liabilities, the better you will be able to protect yourself.

So what do weak spots in your bubble look like? Consider the NBA and the NHL bubbles last summer. What do you think possible vulnerabilities could be?

  • Workers and caterers bringing food in and out of the bubble.
  • Hotel cleaning crews sometimes came in from outside the bubble.

How about a travel bubble? On my road trip, the primary weak spot was stopping at gas stations. The risk of contracting COVID-19 from the pumps themselves is low. However, there is plenty of opportunity to come in contact with people who could have come from anywhere.

Rules and Protocols to Stay Safe in Your Road Trip Bubble

Once you identify weak points in your bubble, implement rules to safeguard against those vulnerabilities. What rules would you implement to protect against the fueling vulnerabilities in my bubble? Here’s what I did.

  • Fuel up in quiet, rural areas away from the freeway.
  • Use gas stations that have plenty of spacing between pumps.
  • Wear N-95 masks at all times when outside the truck cab’s “clean” zone.
  • Disinfect high-touch surfaces such as the steering wheel, turn signals, and door handles after every stop.
  • Sanitize hands and wash them with soap and water for 20 seconds after every stop. Carry soap and water so you don’t have to enter public restrooms.
  • Do not touch anything outside the truck cab without gloves on

Not surprisingly, those are far from the only rules we need to implement to stay safe on the trip.

Timing

The timing of the trip is the trickiest, but most crucial aspect to get right. You want to time your trip for when COVID-19 case loads are as low as possible. Factor in complications from snow and ice and it’s like trying to pee through a Cheerio at ten paces. Thankfully, all of the necessary tools are readily available.

As far back as last October, nearly all of the COVID-19 modeling showed new cases in the US peaking in early-to-mid January. Based on patterns from the spring and summer waves, I knew that the best window to travel would likely be 4 to 6 weeks after the peak. Any longer than that and you risk case loads starting to increase again. So how’d we do?

Time Series of New Daily COVID-19 Cases in the United States as of 3 March, 2021
New Daily COVID-19 Cases in the United States as of 3 March, 2021

Not perfect, but pretty good given the circumstances.

Driving and Stopping Protocols

  • No Toll Roads. The idea here is to avoid contact with toll takers, not save money. Cashless tolls are okay.
  • Do not enter any building under any circumstance, except for my friend’s house that I’m staying at or for a serious medical emergency.
  • The truck cab is a “clean” zone. No foreign or outside objects are to enter the truck cab.
  • A separate, sealed area shall be established in the truck bed to hold “contaminated” items.
  • Do not stop other than to get gas, use the restroom, or sleep.
  • Nobody other than myself shall enter the truck cab.

Gear to Pack

Because we’re not going into any buildings or public areas, we must carry everything we need to survive. Pack like you’re venturing deep into the backcountry for several weeks. This includes, but is not limited to:

  • Food and water. Canned goods are your best friend.
  • Blankets and pillows. Be sure you can stay warm during colder months. I had to sleep in the truck in an ice storm in Kentucky.
  • Survival Gear. What you pack depends on whether you’ll be dealing with extreme cold or extreme heat, but be sure you can survive if you get stranded somewhere.
  • Solar panels. If you get stranded, being able to charge your phone can be the difference between life and death.
  • Tools and gear to get your car out if you get stuck. At a bare minimum, I carry saws, a tow strap, and a jumper box.
Full loaded truck ready for my cross-country road trip
I Haven’t Loaded the Truck Up Like this in a Long Time.

Pre-Departure

  • Self-isolate at home for 2 weeks prior to departure
  • All shopping, vehicle maintenance, etc. must be completed prior to entering the bubble

Road Trip Route

  • Optimize your route so you’re traveling through as few states as possible while still minimizing travel times.
  • Stay out of states without statewide mask mandates
  • Avoid states that have high COVID-19 case loads and/or few restrictions.
  • Try to stay south so you don’t run into snow, ice, or other winter weather.

Post-Arrival

  • Quarantine for 10 days upon arrival as required by state law.
  • I recommend self-quarantining at your destination even if there is no mandatory quarantine.

Crossing State Lines

One thing about this whole pandemic that is equally as fascinating as it is head scratching is just how much rules and restrictions vary from state-to-state. What is perfectly okay in one state might get you excoriated in the next.

As a result, I find it easier to treat it like you’re crossing different countries instead of different states. I have found that states fall into one of two categories. They either take the pandemic seriously or they mock it and go out of their way to flout the rules. Regardless of whether or not you agree with them, please obey all state laws and restrictions. They’re in place for a reason.

What’s Next

Next up is the first leg of the trip from Arizona to Oklahoma. Along the way, I run into an unexpected foe – the Polar Vortex – and drive right into some of the most wild weather I’ve ever seen on a trip. Make sure you tune in next week.

Top Photo: Feeling Lucky on my other Covid Road Trip
Las Vegas, Nevada – July, 2020

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Grand Canyon: A Complete Guide to Stunning Winter Photography https://blog.matthewgove.com/2021/01/29/grand-canyon-a-complete-guide-to-stunning-winter-photography/ Sat, 30 Jan 2021 00:30:44 +0000 https://blog.matthewgove.com/?p=2155 The Grand Canyon is one of the seven natural wonders of the world for good reason. It is a truly awesome sight every time you stand on the edge of the rim. It doesn’t matter how many times you’ve been there before. If you thought it was breathtaking in the […]

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The Grand Canyon is one of the seven natural wonders of the world for good reason. It is a truly awesome sight every time you stand on the edge of the rim. It doesn’t matter how many times you’ve been there before. If you thought it was breathtaking in the summer, seeing the Grand Canyon under a fresh blanket of snow is simply divine.

Grand Canyon snow photography is a much different beast to tame than traditional Grand Canyon landscapes. While the goals of both types of photography remain the same, photos that really pop in the snow are often not the same awe-inspiring ones taken during the summer.

Plan Out Your Trip Beforehand

Winter weather introduces new layers of complexity and uncertainty to any kind of trip planning. At 7,000 feet above sea level, weather conditions at the South Rim can change rapidly and unexpectedly in the wintertime. As a result, your plan can go sideways in a hurry. Have a Plan B and a Plan C in place in case you need to unexpectedly spend the night somewhere or get stranded somewhere you didn’t expect.

Best Snow Routes to the Grand Canyon

The safest route to the Grand Canyon in the snow is via State Route 64 from Williams. The entire route stays below 7,000 feet elevation and has enough traffic that if you break down, someone will find you pretty quickly.

If you’re coming from Flagstaff, US-180 looks like a shortcut, but it comes with a catch. You’ll reach elevations of nearly 9,000 feet on a road that’s deserted and desolate as it snakes through the Kaibab National Forest north of the Arizona Snow Bowl. If you break down or get stuck, you’ll largely be on your own. Cell service is spotty at best. I’ve driven US-180 in blizzard conditions, so trust me. Taking I-40 West to Williams and going up Highway 64 is much safer.

Heavy snow falls along US-180 near Flagstaff, Arizona
Heavy snow falls along US-180 en route to Grand Canyon in January, 2017
SR-64 near Grand Canyon National Park
State Route 64 south of Tusayan, Arizona that same day – January, 2017

What Areas of Grand Canyon National Park Do You Plan to Photograph?

You’ll be greatly disappointed if you think you can freely move around the park like you can in the summer.

  • The North Rim closes for the winter in October, so you’re relegated to the South Rim.
  • Roads outside of Grand Canyon Village are often closed after heavy snow.

I’ve sounded like a broken record in the past when I’ve told you to stay away from Grand Canyon Village when taking photos. However, snow photography is the one exception to that rule.

In fact, you want to do the exact opposite. Center your plan for snow photography around Grand Canyon Village. In this guide, we will focus on the village itself and nearby lookouts you can hike if roads are closed.

Time Your Arrival as the Winter Storm Pulls Away

The most dramatic Grand Canyon snow photo opportunities occur when the clouds start to part as the winter storm pulls away. The shadows and snow create a stunning contrast as the sun shines through broken clouds.

Late afternoon sun illuminates a snow-capped Grand Canyon through broken clouds as a major winter storm exits the area – January, 2019

To correctly pull it off, you will have to thread a bit of a needle. Arrive too early and the heavy snowfall will obscure your view of the canyon. It will also make driving extremely treacherous. Arrive too late and you’ll miss the most dramatic views.

Dress Appropriately

The weather, elevation, and high desert climate present a unique challenge. The best advice I can give you is dress in layers. You will see large swings in temperature as the sun goes in and out of the clouds.

Additionally, wear warm gloves that allow you to operate your camera without taking them off. Wear snow boots or waterproof hiking boots. You can get into serious trouble from hypothermia or frostbite very quickly if your feet get wet.

Let Your Camera Acclimate, Too

Cameras hate going through rapid extreme changes in temperature. If you take your camera straight from the warm car out into the winter elements, you risk the lens fogging up and condensation forming inside the camera body. There are two strategies to reduce the temperature gap and prevent lens fog.

  1. Store your camera in a cooler part of the car, such as the trunk.
  2. Tuck your camera under your jacket when you first step out in the cold to let it gradually cool down.

The Grand Canyon’s high desert climate helps reduce lens fog and condensation. If it does happen to you (it’s happened to me plenty), just be patient. The lenses will clear up once the equilibrium is reached between the temperature inside camera and the ambient outdoor temperature.

Expect Winter Driving Conditions and Road Closures

Winter driving in Arizona’s high country is not for the faint of heart. Expect rapidly changing conditions, occasional white-outs, and slow going. You don’t have to get much north of Phoenix to get into the snow and ice, either. The climb heading north out of Black Canyon City on Interstate 17 – only about 20 miles (30 km) from the northern fringes of Phoenix – is often where I first run into snow and ice.

Snow on I-17 near Sedona, Arizona
Treacherous winter conditions on Interstate 17 north of Sedona, Arizona en route to Grand Canyon – January, 2017

Drive a 4×4 and Carry Tire Chains

The biggest mistake I see inexperienced drivers make in the snow is driving like they would on dry pavement. Unfortunately, this behavior leads to spin-outs, crashes, getting stuck, and winding up in the ditch. Even with four wheel drive, some people think they can drive normally.

Here’s the truth. Four wheel drive will help you get going from a stop and will give you some traction going around corners. Contrary to popular belief, it does absolutely nothing to help you stop. In fact, in certain instances, it can actually hinder your ability to stop safely.

Tire chains are the secret weapon to helping you stop and maintain traction in the snow. They’ll also help you get going and make it up hills if you don’t have four wheel drive. You can buy chains at most auto parts stores in the west. Buy tire chains with actual chain links on them. The ones that look like the cables you wire your television with do not give you much extra traction.

ADOT sign on I-17 recommending chains or 4x4 in heavy snow
An ADOT sign advises motorists to chain up on Interstate 17 in 2017. I was in white-out blizzard conditions less than 10 minutes after passing this sign.

Before setting off, practice putting your chains on in your driveway. You don’t want to try and figure out how to chain up on the side of the freeway in white-out conditions. Arizona does not have workers at the chain up areas to install your chains for you the way California dows.

Finally, don’t drive faster than 25-30 mph (40-50 km/h) with chains on. Take it slow, stay in control, and you’ll have a great time at Grand Canyon.

Tip: If you’re coming from Phoenix, there is a chain-up area on Interstate 17 just north of the McGuireville Rest Area, which is near Mile Marker 300 in the Sedona area.

Expect Roads Leading to and Within Grand Canyon National Park to Be Closed

Encountering road closures is one of the main causes of frustration trying to get around in winter weather. Grand Canyon country is no exception. Always check road conditions before you set off, either on Google Maps or directly with the Arizona Department of Transportation or the National Park Service.

Roads That Almost Always Close During Heavy Snow

  • Desert View Drive (SR-64) from Grand Canyon Village to the Desert View Watchtower and East Entrance Station
  • Hermit Road from Grand Canyon Village to Hermit’s Rest
  • State Route 89A through Oak Creek Canyon from Sedona to Flagstaff

Roads That Frequently Close During Heavy Snow

  • Interstate 17 between Munds Park and Flagstaff
  • US-180 between the Arizona Snow Bowl and Grand Canyon Junction/SR-64.

Roads That Generally Stay Open, But Will Close if Conditions are Bad Enough

  • Interstate 40 between Ash Fork/SR-89 and Winona, which is east of Flagstaff
  • State Route 64 between Williams and the main entrance to Grand Canyon National Park
  • US-89 from Flagstaff to Page

Carry Winter Survival Gear

You’ll be driving through remote and desolate territory as you travel from Flagstaff or Williams to the Grand Canyon. If you break down, spin out, or get stuck, you want to ensure you can stay warm and safe until help arrives. Winter storms in Arizona’s high country can strike swiftly and fiercely. Things can go sideways on you in a hurry if you’re not prepared.

At the bare minimum, you should carry with you:

  • Extra water
  • Extra food. Snacks such as cereal, granola bars, and trail mix work great.
  • A flashlight and extra batteries
  • A blanket or sleeping bag
  • A change of clothes
  • An extra pair of shoes or boots
  • A snow shovel
  • An ice scraper and/or snow brush
  • Jumper cables
  • Keep your gas tank at least half full. If you get stranded, you can run the heat to stay warm.

It May Take Significantly Longer Than Normal to Get to Grand Canyon

You need to drive according to the conditions. I cannot stress this enough. If you’re driving though heavy snowfall or white out conditions, expect to be moving at a crawl, even on major freeways such as I-17 or I-40.

White-out conditions on Interstate 17 slow traffic to 15 mph (25 km/h) south of Flagstaff, Arizona – January, 2017

Want some proof? Here’s a true story. I took a snow adventure to the Grand Canyon in January, 2017. That day, the snow level dropped down to about 4,500 feet. Coming from Phoenix, I made the climb out of the Verde River Valley (about 3,000 feet) to the top of the plateau (about 6,500 feet) on Interstate 17.

As I crossed that magical 4,500 foot elevation threshold, things transitioned from normal overcast driving conditions to a white out blizzard in a matter of minutes. By the time I reached the top of the plateau, I-17 was completely snow packed and traffic slowed to about 15 mph (25 km/h). Keep in mind, the normal speed limit is 75 mph (120 km/h).

I couldn’t believe how many idiots I saw go flying by in the left lane trying to drive the normal speed limit. They were going way too fast for the conditions. Here’s the kicker. For every vehicle that went flying by, I saw them less than 5 minutes later spun out in the ditch waiting for a tow truck. It took me over six and a half hours that day to drive from Phoenix to the Grand Canyon. It was worth every one of those extra minutes to get there safely.

First view of a snowy Grand Canyon in January, 2017
This is the view that greeted me after the long slog up from Phoenix in January, 2017. Would you rather be here or on the side of the road waiting for a tow truck?

Use the Main Entrance to the South Rim at Tusayan

Desert View Drive always closes when there is any appreciative snow accumulation. As a result, the South Rim’s main entrance is usually the only entrance to Grand Canyon National Park that is open. The main entrance brings you to Grand Canyon Village, which has the Visitor’s Center, restaurants, hotels, and all the other comforts you need. You’ll likely be cut off from those comforts if you try to use any other entrance.

Map of South Rim Main Entrance
The South Rim Main Entrance is located just north of Tusayan, Arizona on State Route 64

Note: During the COVID-19 pandemic, the National Park Service has permanently closed the East Entrance to the South Rim (SR-64 from Cameron, AZ) to protect the Navajo Nation. You must use the main entrance at Tusayan to enter the park.

Snow Photography is Different from Regular Landscape Photography

This is especially true at Grand Canyon.

Think of the “classic” Grand Canyon photo you may see hanging in a bookstore or coffee shop. What was the photographer trying to capture? The Grand Canyon’s massive size? The geology and breathtaking relief? Its brilliant colors? Its native culture? The Colorado River?

If you’re thinking “All of the Above”, let me welcome you to the challenges of Grand Canyon landscape photography. As spectacular as the canyon is, it is incredibly difficult to capture all of its elements in a single photo.

Classic Grand Canyon Landscape
A Classic Grand Canyon Landscape – June, 2012

Thankfully, Grand Canyon snow photography is much simpler because you’re focusing on one thing. The snow is the main subject of your photo. As for the geology, the colors, and everything else, they’re what takes a good photo and makes it great. It’s just icing on the cake.

A Grand Canyon Snow Photography Strategy

Photographing snow at Grand Canyon requires a vastly different strategy than classic Grand Canyon landscape photography. Unless the snow level gets really low – I’m talking almost all the way down to the river low – forget about the “full canyon” photos you gravitate towards in the summertime.

A Wide Angle View of Grand Canyon Snow
A Classic Grand Canyon Landscape Fails to Draw the Viewer’s Eye to the Snow

Instead, you want to focus on capturing snow on the canyon walls. You can use either the outer walls of the canyon or the spires, temples, and buttes inside the canyon. I actually find the most dramatic photos are when you use a combination of both. You’ll get a distinct foreground and background that will provide pronounced depth to an already dramatic photo.

The canyon wall adds depth to a Grand Canyon snow photo
Adding depth is a great way to make a Grand Canyon snow photo more dramatic.

You also want to make sure your viewing angles are correct. There is an endless selection of lookouts along the South Rim for you to find the perfect photo op. If you’re not seeing anything looking left from one of the lookouts, look to the right. At Grand Canyon, what looks terrible in one direction is often spectacular looking the other direction.

Additionally, shadows inside the canyon add flare and depth to photos any time of year. Low sun angles in the winter maximize this effect. After mapping out your favorite lookouts, come back throughout the day. Changing sun angles drastically alter the scenery throughout the day. A terrible photo op at 10 or 11 AM may turn into one of the best photos you’ve ever taken at 4 PM.

Don’t Be Afraid to Use the Weather to Make Your Grand Canyon Snow Photos Dramatic

You are taking snow photos after all.

Weather is one of the easiest and most effective ways to make any landscape photo really “pop”. Just have a look at some of my storm chasing photos from Oklahoma or Kansas.

An exiting winter storm presents an incredible opportunity to add weather to your Grand Canyon snow photography. To take advantage of this opportunity, have a look at the weather radar and head to the part of the South Rim from where the storm is leaving. If it’s moving east, head to the east end of the South Rim. Go west if the storm is leaving the western part of the park.

Regardless of where you’ve set up to take pictures, the most common weather features you’ll see include:

  • Snow or rain squalls moving across the canyon
  • Dramatic lighting from the sun poking through broken clouds
Grand Canyon Snow Squall
A Snow Squall Moves Through Grand Canyon National Park in January, 2017

Take Advantage of Low Winter Sun Angles to Capture Soft Light on the Brilliant Canyon Walls

If you look at Grand Canyon photos in coffee shops, art galleries, magazines, and advertisements, you’ll notice a common thread. Most of them were taken close to sunrise or sunset. That’s because the mid-day sun creates harsh contrasts inside the canyon, especially in the summer.

Luckily, the effect of harsh contrasts is minimized in the wintertime because the sun angle is at its lowest. Regardless of what the date on the calendar is, the best time of day for any Grand Canyon photography is the 60 to 90 minute window after sunrise or before sunset.

Keep the sun somewhat behind you and use the strategies we just discussed in those time windows. Your photos will be absolutely stunning.

Soft evening light illuminates the Grand Canyon after a snow storm
Soft light illuminates the spires inside Grand Canyon shortly before sunset – January, 2019

Tip: At the South Rim, you’ll find the best photo ops looking west (left) in the morning and east (right) in the evening.

Don’t Get Frustrated if You Can’t See Inside the Canyon

You can still take great pictures.

All right, time for a quick meteorology lesson. Air parcels are constantly moving up and down through the atmosphere. Warm air near the ground rises. As it gains altitude, it starts cooling down.

Cold air cannot hold as much moisture as warm air. The air parcel eventually cools off enough where it cannot hold any more moisture. At that point, the moisture condenses out in the form of clouds. The height at which this occurs is called the Lifted Condensation Level, or LCL. If there’s enough upward force to keep the parcel moving upward, additional moisture that condenses out will fall as rain or snow.

In most synoptic (large) scale storms, the LCL is at most only a few hundred meters (1,000 to 2,000 feet) above the ground. Keep in mind that the South Rim sits about 7,000 feet (2,100 meters) above sea level. As the storm passes over the Grand Canyon, its width, steepness, and depth allow the LCL inside the canyon to fall well below the elevation of the rim. As a result, clouds and precipitation obscure your view of the canyon.

Clouds and snow obscure your view of the Grand Canyon
Grand Canyon is Shrouded in Clouds and Snow Following a Winter Storm in January, 2019

If you encounter an obstructed or obscured view of the canyon, don’t panic. Your efforts haven’t been for not. You can still take great pictures. Here are a few ideas.

  • Take a “snow globe” or “winter wonderland” photo from the rim trail or the surrounding forest
  • Take close-up photos of plants or animals
  • Lean into the punch and let the obscured view add a touch of mystery to your Grand Canyon snow photos.
Heavy snow pounds Grand Canyon National Park
Heavy Snow Pounds Grand Canyon National Park in January, 2019. This photo is actually looking into the canyon.

Don’t Get too Close to the Edge

Just because you see snow accumulations does not necessarily mean there’s actually solid ground underneath it. Snow has an uncanny ability to defy physics that way. Don’t join the infamous club of people who have fallen into the Grand Canyon.

  • Keep bushes or trees between you and the edge. You know for sure that they’re attached to solid ground.
  • Look for footprints in the snow. They are a good indicator that there is solid ground underneath the snow.
  • Use a long stick or a hiking pole to prod the ground in front of you if you’re near the edge
  • Stick to areas that have railings and other safety mechanisms in place
Snowy edge of the Grand Canyon
Keep well back from the edge in scenes like this. The presence of snow accumulation doesn’t necessarily mean there’s stable ground underneath it.

Hike the Rim Trail to Gain a Different Perspective

The Rim Trail runs 13 miles (21 km) along the South Rim from Hermit’s Rest to the South Kaibab Trailhead. Running right through the heart of Grand Canyon Village, the trail is easily accessible from the Visitor’s Center, the museums, and the lodges. Best of all, it’s paved, routinely plowed, and flat.

You don’t have to go far to get away from the crowds. Hiking for just 10 or 15 minutes east or west of Grand Canyon Village is often all it takes. I often go further than that. If Desert View Drive or Hermit Road is closed, the Rim Trail provides at least some access to lookout points beyond Grand Canyon Village.

Spectacular view along the Grand Canyon's Rim Trail
The Rim Trail runs right along the South Rim, featuring stunning views, information stations, and a Trail of Time.

Tip: Do not hike any trails with steep hills or switchbacks, such as Bright Angel or South Kaibab. They are very icy, slippery and treacherous after a winter storm.

Photo Opportunities that are Accessible by Car

If you prefer not to hike, no need to worry. There are plenty of lookout points you can drive to. In the immediate aftermath of the snowfall, road closures may initially restrict where you can go. However, both Desert View Drive and Hermit Road generally re-open within 24 to 48 hours after the storm ends.

Desert View Drive

  • Yaki Point / South Kaibab Trailhead (also accessible via the Rim Trail)
  • Moran Point
  • Lipan Point
  • Desert View Watchtower

Hermit Road

Hermit Road is open to passenger vehicles during the months of December, January, and February. Drive the full 7 miles (11 km) out to Hermit’s Rest. The lookouts along the way have some of the best views of Grand Canyon.

Grand Canyon Village

If roads or closed or you’re not feeling that adventurous, take advantage of the incredible snowy scenery within Grand Canyon Village.

  • Mather Point (behind the Visitor’s Center)
  • Bright Angel Trailhead and the Lodges on the Rim
  • Yavapai Point and the Geology Museum

Don’t take photos through the glass from inside the Yavapai Geology Museum. You risk reflections, grit on the windows, and poor lighting appearing in your photos.

Tourists photograph the Grand Canyon after a snowstorm
Tourists take photos of Grand Canyon at Mather Point following a major snowstorm in January, 2017

If You Don’t Want to Hike or Drive, Take the Shuttle

Grand Canyon National Park operates free shuttles so you can access lookout points and more throughout the South Rim. In addition to serving Grand Canyon Village, you can take the shuttle to Hermit’s Rest, the South Kaibab Trailhead, and Tusayan.

Shuttle service is pared down right now due to the COVID-19 pandemic. You can still use it to access lookout points within Grand Canyon Village and at the South Kaibab Trailhead. Shuttle service to Hermit’s Rest will resume in March.

For up to the minute information on shuttle schedules and routes, please visit the Grand Canyon National Park website.

Know Your Limits

Any time you enter an extreme environment, even the smallest of mishaps can turn into full-blown disasters. While Grand Canyon gets most of its notoriety from its scorching summer conditions, winter can be just as unforgiving.

Know the limits of not just yourself, but also your vehicle and your equipment. When in doubt, always remember my rule. If you don’t feel comfortable doing something, then don’t do it.

Drink Plenty of Water and Bring Snacks

While Arizona is best known for its sunshine and warm weather, winters at Grand Canyon are nothing to take for granted. The combination of the cold, the high desert, and the elevation can be deadly.

The threats from these winter conditions at Grand Canyon are surprisingly similar to the threats in Arizona’s low deserts in the summer. The only difference is that you risk hypothermia instead of heat exhaustion. Indeed, you won’t realize you’re dehydrating until it’s too late.

While you don’t need to drink as much water as you do to survive in the low desert summer, you should carry a water bottle and sip it throughout the day.

Additionally, you burn more calories at high elevation than you do at sea level. The cold further compounds that. Snacking throughout the day is the best way to keep your energy levels up. Just be careful if you’re eating lots salty snacks. You don’t want to dehydrate yourself anymore than you have to.

Conclusion

Seeing the Grand Canyon under a fresh blanket of snow is one of the most beautiful and spectacular sights you’ll ever see. You’ll capture photos that are second to none. However, snowstorms in Arizona’s high country are not to be taken lightly. Come prepared and stay within your limits, and you’re bound to have an experience you won’t soon forget.

Top Photo: The Sun Begins to Set over Grand Canyon After a Major Winter Storm
Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona – January, 2019

The post Grand Canyon: A Complete Guide to Stunning Winter Photography appeared first on Matthew Gove Blog.

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