Five years later, I did finally get back. On a family trip in 2017, we checked off Zion (again), Bryce Canyon, and Capitol Reef National Parks in southern Utah. Despite being so close to each other, all three National Parks are so different, so unique, and so breathtaking. But the two northern Utah National Parks, Arches and Canyonlands, remained elusive. And living in Arizona, it was another frustrating case of so close, but yet so far. Year after year. But that only made me more driven than ever to get there.

What Are the “Big 5” National Parks in Utah?

If you’re unfamiliar with Utah’s geography, the state has an incredible diversity of National Parks, National Monuments, National Forests, National Recreation Areas, and Bureau of Land Management (BLM) land. Utah is quite literally a recreation paradise that offers just about every outdoor activity you can think of. The five national parks in Utah are, in alphabetical order:

1. Arches National Park
2. Bryce Canyon National Park
3. Canyonlands National Park
4. Capitol Reef National Park
5. Zion National Park

Zion, Bryce Canyon, and Capitol Reef National Parks are clustered together in the southern part of Utah. At the same time, Arches and Canyonlands National Parks sit about 30 minutes apart in northeastern Utah.

The COVID-19 Pandemic Provides Motivation for Going to Check Off Bucket List Items

I, like many people, took a lot of things for granted prior to the COVID-19 pandemic, including travel and photography. When the world shut down in March, 2020, it took the travel and photography away from me. For over a year and a half, it felt like part of me was missing. And in a way, it was. But instead of seeing the pandemic as a setback, it became a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for me.

The pandemic has made me more driven than ever to pursue my passions, goals, and mission. I decided to further integrate travel, photography, and videography into the core of my business. It led me to realize exactly what I want life to look like. And now, it’s time to chase those new dreams.

Utah National Parks: Trip Background and Motivation

The primary purpose of this trip was to take care of the business of selling my house in Arizona. However, I wanted to make sure I mixed in a bunch of fun, too. And that has nothing to do with the fact that moving sucks, and I’ve done it far too many times. It’s because I haven’t had a fun trip since my 2019 Road Trip across Mexico, the United States, and Canada. Two and a half years is a very long time to go without something that you’re not only passionate about, but also something you use as an escape from tough times.

The logistics for the trip came into place absolutely perfectly. Because COVID-19 was still raging in the south, I opted for the northern route (I-80) across most of the country. Furthermore, one of my friends had just moved to Boulder, Colorado, which was also conveniently right along the way. But best of all, it meant that I’d be driving right by the two remaining Utah National Parks – Arches and Canyonlands – that I had yet to visit, on my way back to Arizona. Unfortunately, I only had about a day and a half to explore both parks, so I wanted to make sure I made the most of every minute I had.

Day 1: Catching Sunset at Arches National Park

After a spectacular drive across the Colorado Rockies on Interstate 70 from Boulder, I rolled into Moab around 3:30 PM local time. After checking into the hotel, I didn’t even bother heading up to the room. I headed straight to Arches National Park. This was in early December, so I only had about an hour and a half to familiarize myself with the park and scope out a good place for a sunset photo shoot.

I Nearly Missed the Sunset Because I Wasn’t Paying Attention

If you’ve ever been to Arches before, you’ll know that it takes about 45 minutes to drive from one end of the park to the other. Unfortunately, I didn’t realize this because it was my first time at Arches. If there’s one thing you need to know about me, it’s that I tend to pull off and shoot a lot of photos and videos my first time I visit somewhere new. This is especially true for a place as beautiful as Arches.

After what felt like just a short few moments, I looked down at the clock. It was almost 4:40 PM. I only had about 15 minutes to find a spot to watch the 5:00 PM sunset. And wasn’t even half way through the park, yet. That’s about when that little bit of panic sets in. Am I going to miss sunset because I was being an idiot and not paying attention to the clock? Not if I can help it. To make matters worse, there’s no cell service inside the park, either.

Thankfully, with the help of my GPS and the brochures the National Park Service gives you when you enter each park, I identified a good spot several miles back that would be a good spot to watch sunset. But could I make it in time? The truck may have felt like an Indy Car at times racing back to that spot, but rest assured I obeyed the speed limit at all times. And the timing ended up being perfect, as I got there about 7 minutes before sunset.

Post-Sunset Twilight at Arches National Park is Absolutely Magical

If you think the golden hour is a magical time for landscape photography, you’ve never seen Arches National Park during that 40-or-so-minute window of dusk and twilight following sunset. The entire landscape is cast in a spectacular color. It starts as a vibrant violet or purple right after sunset and slowly shifts to a navy blue hue as dusk progresses. When contrast against Arches’ brilliant red rocks and a fresh blanket of snow on the top of the nearby LaSal Mountains, it’s no wonder why these are such sought-after shots. The same goes for all of the other Utah National Parks, too.

While watching the last dregs of light disappear from the western horizon, I was completely awe-struck by what I had witnessed. It was really that beautiful. I could have easily sat there all night watching the stars, but that’s a project for another day. Time to head back to the hotel to get dinner and a good night’s sleep.

Utah National Parks Day 2: Diving Deeper into Arches and an Afternoon at Canyonlands

After waking up, I rolled over and looked at the clock. 6:20 AM. Then I opened the weather app on my phone to check the sunrise. 7:23 AM. There was more than enough time to get to Arches to see the sunrise. I hadn’t originally planned to get up in time for sunrise because thick cloud cover was expected to roll in early that morning. But skies were still relatively clear, so I quickly got dressed and headed back up to Arches. I wouldn’t be able to live with myself if I missed a beautiful sunrise.

The Arches Sunset was Breathtaking. Then Sunrise Said “Hold My Beer.”

If there’s one thing I learned in all the years I spent storm chasing, it’s that plans rarely go off without a hitch. Mother Nature always seems to throw you a curveball at some point. Sometimes it’s for the better. Other (read: more often) times it’s not. Up at Arches that morning, the weather gods were looking out for us. The arrival of the thick cloud cover was delayed a few hours. It left absolutely perfect conditions for a beautiful sunrise in its place.

To Fully Experience Arches National Park, You Need to Get Out and Hike

Despite the gloomy skies and cold temperatures, I was actually most looking forward to doing some hiking at Arches National Park. After catching the sunrise, I headed up to Devil’s Garden, at the far northern end of the park. My friend in Boulder had recommended this hike because it gave you the most bang for your buck for seeing as many arches as possible if you didn’t have much time. And boy, was he ever right.

After setting off from the trailhead, you only need to hike about 600 feet, or 200 meters, to reach the first arch. From there, you’ll see 4 additional arches in the first mile of the trail, which will bring you to Landscape Arch. In September, 1991, visitors at Landscape Arch witnessed one of the largest rock falls in Arches National Park history. After hearing some cracking sounds, nearly 180 tons of rock fell from the bottom of Landscape Arch to the ground below. Those rocks still litter the landscape today.

Following the rock fall, park rangers closed the trail that led underneath Landscape Arch. That trail remains closed to this day. However, you can still get plenty close enough to get good photos and videos of it.

While you can make a loop through even more arches past Landscape Arch, I opted to return to the parking lot. The end of the main trail is at Landscape Arch, and I didn’t want to risk getting lost on the primitive trail. Plus, there were other parts of the park I still wanted to see, and I didn’t have a whole lot of time left, so I hiked the 1 mile (1.6 km) back to the parking lot.

Don’t Miss Delicate Arch, which is Utah’s Most Famous Arch

Even if you’ve never heard of Delicate Arch, I’ll be willing to bet that you’ve seen it before. It’s one of the most famous geologic features in the world. You can find pictures of it on tourism brochures, guides, and promotions not just in Utah, but throughout the western United States. It’s one of the most photographed spots in the entire National Park system, and even appears on the Utah license plate. And you can find it at Arches National Park.

Unfortunately, I did not have time to hike the three mile (4.8 km) round trip to Delicate Arch. And I’ll be the first to admit, I was a bit lazy too. The previous hike in the cold certainly didn’t help. But that didn’t stop me from getting pictures of it. You just have to work smarter, not harder.

There is a lookout where you can view Delicate Arch from two viewpoints off of a parking lot about half a mile (just under 1 km) from Delicate Arch. I had hoped to hike to the closer viewpoint, but I found barricades across the trail. It was closed for maintenance. So I got my big telephoto lens and walked out to the second, further away viewpoint. All I can say is, well, telephoto lens for the win!

Take Another Short Hike at The Windows on the Way Out of Arches National Park

If you’re short on time, I can’t recommend a hike at The Windows enough. At 0.7 miles (1.1 km) round trip, it’s an easy, relatively flat hike that will net you three additional arches. You’ll first visit the beautiful pair of arches that make up The Windows. You can actually hike right up underneath them and take in the view on the other side. Then, turn around and you’ll find a bonus: Turret Arch. While it doesn’t dominate the landscape the way The Windows do, Turret Arch is a great place to get your picture taken standing underneath the arch.

Well, Arches, it’s been real, but it’s nearly mid-day, so it’s time to head over to Canyonlands.

Canyonlands National Park: An Island in the Sky

The main entrance to Canyonlands National Park is about a half hour north of Arches National Park. Driving into Canyonlands for the first time felt an awful lot like the first time I visited the Grand Canyon. After a beautiful drive across the plateau, you arrive at the entrance station. A short distance from the entrance station, you get your first view of the canyon. And you realize right away why they call it Island in the Sky.

Like Grand Canyon, the Colorado River is responsible for carving Canyonlands National Park out of the surrounding plateau. Canyonlands also is broken into two areas. However, you’ll notice a few distinct differences. First, Canyonlands is much shallower and much wider than Grand Canyon. Second, it’s much less crowded, and you can actually drive down to the river. It’s a primitive dirt road through gnarly backcountry, but that’s a story for another day.

Canyonlands’ Grand Overview

The road into Canyonlands National Park ends at Grand View Point, about 12 miles (19 km) from the Visitor’s Center. I recommend you start there for two reasons. First, it’s the best view in the whole park. Grand View Point features 270-degree views of the surrounding canyons. Second, by starting at Grand View Point and working your way back to the Visitor’s Center, you’ll be able to see the whole park if you run out of time.

A Different Perspective Around Every Corner

One of my favorite aspects of my trips to Grand Canyon National Park is that for all of the pulloffs and lookouts it has, each one has a different perspective of the canyon. Canyonlands is the exact same. I stopped at every overlook I could find, and they photos simply speak for themselves.

Take an Excursion Down Upheaval Dome Road

About half way between the Visitor’s Center and Grand View Point, you’ll find the turnoff for Upheaval Dome Road. Along the road, you’ll find numerous hiking opportunities, as well as plenty of pullouts, overlooks, and beautiful scenery. I hiked short distances down both the Upheaval Dome and Whale Rock trails, but the windy, cold, and raw weather made longer hikes rather unpleasant. I guess that’s just another excuse to return to Canyonlands in the future.

The sun going in and out of the clouds did, however, make for some spectacular lighting in both photos and videos. The sun shines through the clouds like a spotlight on the landscape, bathing the jagged landscape in a beautiful, warm light. Again, here, I’ll just let the photos tell the story.

A Deserted Mesa Arch will Make Even The Most Seasoned Instagrammers Jealous

Mesa Arch is the most popular photo spot in Canyonlands National Park. Sought after by everyone from professional landscape photographers to social media influencers, Mesa Arch is best known for its sunrise photo ops. In fact, it’s so popular that there is actually a sign there telling people not to take too much time taking photos at the arch itself so that other people have a chance to take pictures as well.

One of the biggest perks of being at both Arches and Canyonlands National Parks in early December is that you’re there at the peak of the offseason. As a result, I had both parks to pretty much myself. Even at the most popular hiking trails, there may be two or three other cars in the parking lot, but other than that, it was completely empty. And best of all, this is what Mesa Arch looked like. Just admit it. I know you’re jealous.

Sunset at Canyonlands

As I made my way down the hill back to the Mesa Arch trailhead, the western sky was starting to clear. Conditions weren’t quite as perfect as they had been at Arches that morning, but if they held, sunset would be spectacular. Not wanting to repeat the same mistake two days in a row, I knew exactly where I wanted to go photograph the Canyonlands sunset: the Green River Overlook. And best of all, it’s only about a three-minute drive from the Mesa Arch trailhead.

I got to the Green River Overlook at about 4:15 PM for a 5 PM sunset. Conditions still looked really good for sunset. However, I knew from my training in meteorology that it was pretty much a flip of a coin whether it would hold on long enough to give us a beautiful sunset. And while everything aligned perfectly that morning for the sunrise at Arches, this one unfortunately went the other way.

By about 4:35 PM, thick clouds had rolled in, covering the western sky. You just knew those clouds were there to stay. There would be no spectacular Canyonlands sunset that day, as thick clouds just kept rolling in. But they couldn’t take away the spectacular view at the overlook.

Even though the sunset didn’t work out, it was impossible to drive back to Moab fully dejected. It had been an incredible day-and-a-half exploring Arches and Canyonlands National Parks. Plus, I still the southern (Needles) part of Canyonlands to look forward to the next day. I ended the day with some really good Thai food in Moab. Basil chicken with some of the best hot chili sauce I’ve ever had.

Day 3: The Rest of Canyonlands Leads to a Couple Unexpected Surprises

On my final morning in Utah, I woke up to a very unexpected surprise. Winter Storm Warnings were up for most of east-central and southeastern Utah. Parts of San Juan County, which sits just south of Moab, could see heavy blowing snow and up to 8 inches of accumulation. It had my attention.

While conditions were fine in Moab itself, I knew that things could be much different once you get south of town, where you climb from from about 4,000 feet up to 7,000 feet in elevation. Further complicating the matter, the only route available to get back to Arizona took me right through the heart of the Winter Storm Warning. Conditions would only deteriorate as the morning went along, so I didn’t waste any time getting on the road heading south.

The Needles District of Canyonlands National Park

While Island in the Sky and Needles – the two districts of Canyonlands National Park – sit just across the canyon from each other, the two entrances are about 70 miles (113 km) apart. Because of its proximity to Moab and better views of the canyon, Island in the Sky sees far more visitors than the Needles district. Needles is generally considered to be much more rustic and remote than Island in the Sky. It’s the same phenomenon you see in the South vs North Rims of the Grand Canyon.

As luck would have it, the majority of the Needles district was north of the Winter Storm Warning. However, as I approached the turnoff, it became very clear that the turnoff that went to the entrance of the Needles District was far enough south that it fell within the Winter Storm Warning. By the time I got to the turnoff, light snow had begun falling, and gusty winds were starting to pick up. There was also a sign stating that the road into the Needles District of Canyonlands National Park was closed due to the incoming snowstorm. So I begrudgingly continued south.

A Second Unexpected Surprise Checks off Another Bucket List Item

By the time I rolled into the town of Blanding in southeastern Utah, I was through the Winter Storm Warning, but I still didn’t know what I wanted to do as. an alternative to Canyonlands. I knew that the very least, I wanted to go take photos of the rock that gave the town of Mexican Hat its name. In addition, I also planned to stop at the famous movie spot north of Monument Valley where they filmed the scene in which Forrest Gump stopped running.

Valley of the Gods: Checking Off Another Bucket List Item

As I made my way towards Mexican Hat, a small sign on the side of the road caught my eye. That sign was for Valley of the Gods Road, with an arrow pointing off into the desert. Holy crap! That’s the perfect alternative for Canyonlands. Driving through the Valley of the Gods had been on my bucket list ever since I moved to Arizona. I had hoped to drive it on my trip through southern Utah in 2017, but I had my parents with me then. We simply didn’t have enough time to drive it. Furthermore, my mom and dad didn’t want to go bouncing down a dirt road for two hours.

As you turn down Valley of the Gods Road, there are huge signs warning you that the road becomes impassable when wet, even with four wheel drive. And with that winter storm just to the north, rain was a very real possibility. With the last fleeting bar of cell service, I tried to pull up the nearest radar, which was in Grand Junction, Colorado. No signal. I tried and tried again. Still no signal. Finally, the radar image appeared. Rain was just on the other side of the mesa that formed the western boundary of the Valley of the Gods. It couldn’t have been more than 15 or 20 miles (25 to 32 km) away, and it was heading straight at me.

Will the Rain Hold Off or Render the Road Impassable?

My background in meteorology gave me a gut feeling that the mesa would likely be tall enough to wring all of the rain out of the clouds, preventing it from reaching the Valley of the Gods. A closer look at the radar showed that the line of rain was struggling to push east as it approached the mesa.

I was this close to checking off another bucket list item, plus had just gotten stuffed up at Canyonlands. I didn’t come all this way just to go home empty-handed. So I took the gamble that the mesa would keep the rain at bay. And boy, was it ever worth it. I did not see a drop of rain in the nearly three hours I was in Valley of the Gods.

Conclusion

By far, the best part about visiting national parks like Arches and Canyonlands in the offseason is that you basically have the entire park to yourself. If you can tolerate the cold, damp, raw, and even snow, you’re bound to have a fantastic time. And that goes for not just Arches and Canyonlands, but for National Parks across Utah and the rest of the west. Having now visited all of the “Big 5” National Parks in Utah, it only intensifies the drive to return to the parks, dive much deeper into them, and be able to fully experience and explore everything the Utah National Parks have to offer. This time, I just hope it will take shorter than 5 years to make it back there.

Top Photo: The sun begins to rise at Arches National Park
Moab, Utah – December, 2021

The post Arches and Canyonlands: A Remarkable Two Day Adventure to Northern Utah National Parks appeared first on Matthew Gove Blog.

With all international travel and most domestic travel on hold, look closer to home for happiness. Interestingly, some of the photography adventures I have taken in years past check all of the boxes for Covid safety. What a perfect way to boost your mental health! Today, let’s have a look at fifteen destinations in the western United States to get outside and explore. In addition, you can treat your mental health away from the crowds and from the safety of your Covid bubble.

A Word of Caution About Adventuring During COVID

Just because we’re talking about fun adventures today does not mean it’s a green light to let loose. Stay close to home and stick to day trips. This is not the appropriate time to be pin-balling all over the country. Don’t invite all of your friends to come with you, either. Instead, stick to small groups of people you live with, who are already in your Covid bubble. Pack plenty of food, drinks, and sanitizer so you don’t need to stop anywhere.

Please obey all local Covid restrictions, ordinances, and mandates. I know it feels like so many of them have been politicized, but they are there for a reason. Many state and national parks have their own restrictions as well. You will likely be fined if you violate restrictions on state or federal land.

Finally, don’t forget to plan for any hazards you would normally encounter during non-COVID times. Many of these destinations can close unexpectedly due to snow and ice in the winter. Speaking of which, know the tire chain requirements for any states you’ll be traveling through. Carry chains with you and know how to chain up yourself if you’re expecting to be in snow country. If you have any doubts, it’s probably best to stay home.

Now, let’s kick those Covid blues and put your mental health on the fast track to happiness.

1. Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument – Arizona

The Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument sits on the US-Mexico border at the south end of Arizona’s Highway 85. It is the only place in the United States to see the rare organ pipe cactus. While the cactus itself is fairly common south of the border, even the mild winters in Arizona’s low deserts have proven to be too cold for it.

The national monument is also home to an incredible diversity of rare species of flora, fauna, and surprisingly, fish. The Quitobaquito Oasis is home to species of fish that cannot be found anywhere else in the world. The rarest of all is the Sonoyta pupfish. Named for the Mexican town that sits across the border from the monument, Quitobaquito is the only known place in the world that they inhabit.

Note: The access roads to Quitobaquito and Dos Lomitas Ranch are currently closed due to construction of new border fencing.

You’ll find the best photo ops along the Ajo Mountain drive. The 33 km (21 mi) guided tour starts across Highway 85 from the Visitors Center. Along the way, you’ll stop and see the best of what the Sonoran Desert has to offer. If you’re looking to get off the beaten path a little more, consider the North Puerto Blanco Drive. It starts from behind the Visitors Center, but beware that you’ll need a high clearance 4×4 to tackle it.

2. Pacific Coast Highway – Oregon and California

Is there any better feeling than the freedom of a drive up the coast? The fresh ocean air is bound to give anyone’s mental health a shot in the arm. In the age of Covid, keep your stops away from towns and population centers. Find a quiet pull-out at the top of a bluff, and enjoy that nice picnic lunch that you brought from home as you watch the world go by.

3. Burr Trail – Utah

The Burr Trail winds over 120 km (76 mi) through the guts of Utah’s breathtaking backcountry. Starting in the town of Boulder, you’ll pass through the Grand Staircase – Escalante National Monument, Capitol Reef National Park, and the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area.

Drive through beautiful canyons, across stunning mesas, and descend the infamous Burr Trail Switchbacks, which drop close to 1,000 feet elevation in just 1 mile. At a 13% grade on a narrow dirt track, the switchbacks satisfy the hunger of even the most adventurous. You’ll quickly see why it’s rated one of the most scenic drives in Utah and the ultimate exercise in social distancing.

4. Palo Duro Canyon – Texas

Known as the Grand Canyon’s Little Brother, Palo Duro Canyon is the second largest canyon in the United States. Meaning “strong wood” in Spanish, Palo Duro Canyon offers outdoor activities for everyone, including hiking, mountain biking, and horseback riding. The entrance to the state park is a short drive south of Amarillo on Interstate 27. And unlike the Grand Canyon, you can actually drive the bottom of Palo Duro Canyon in a normal passenger car.

You’ll get plenty of great photo opportunities from both the rim and the bottom of the canyon. I recommend arriving close to either sunrise or sunset in order to take advantage of soft, low light on the canyon’s walls. Snap some pictures from the lookouts near the Visitors’ Center before starting your descent into the canyon.

5. Great Salt Plains – Oklahoma

Take a journey back in time at Oklahoma’s Great Salt Plains. The salt pan is a remnant of prehistoric times, when a vast ocean covered what is now Oklahoma. In the summertime, you can venture out on the salt flats and dig for selenite crystals. The Great Salt Plains National Wildlife Refuge is the only place in the world where you’ll find hourglass-shaped selenite crystals.

Fast-forward to today, and you’ll find a state park, a national wildlife refuge, and a large lake. The Great Salt Plains are a great spot to go hiking, swimming, and boating. However, my favorite activity is to take the quiet and tranquil scenic drive through the salt marshes off of Highway 11. You’ll truly be at one with your camera and with nature. If you’re there at the right time of year, Oklahoma is a popular stop along a major bald eagle migration route, too.

6. Apache Trail – Arizona

Take breathtaking drive through the rugged terrain of Arizona’s Superstition Mountains. Originally built as a stagecoach road in the early 20th century, the Apache Trail was named after the Apache Indians who used this same route to cross the mountains. Today, it is Arizona’s State Route 88, an easy day trip from Phoenix.

Much of the Apache Trail is unpaved, but passable in a standard passenger car. There are several steep, narrow hills and one-lane bridges. My best advice to you is that if you don’t like heights, don’t look down. When you reach the end of the trail, you’ll be rewarded with spectacular views of Theodore Roosevelt Lake.

7. Death Valley’s Badwater Backcountry – California

You don’t appreciate exactly how extreme an environment Death Valley is until you travel through its backcountry. Head west out of Pahrump, Nevada, and follow California Highways 178, 127, and 190. You’ll wind up in the heart of Death Valley National Park in the aptly-named town of Furnace Creek, California. Furnace Creek measured the world-record high temperature of 134°F (57°C) on 10 July, 1913. You’ll also pass through Badwater Basin, which marks the lowest point in the United States, at 86 meters (282 ft) below sea level.

Before setting out, please know what you’re getting yourself into. You will be driving through some of the most remote, desolate backcountry in the world. There will be times that you’re more than 120 km (75 mi) from the nearest town.

Gas up before you leave Pahrump, as it could be over 320 km (200 mi) before you see another gas station. Stay hydrated, as dehydration and heat exhaustion are possible even in the winter. And if you break down? You better know how to fix it or have a satellite phone. There is no cell service inside Death Valley National Park, and seeing other cars in the backcountry is extremely rare.

8. White Sands National Park – New Mexico

Home to the world’s largest gypsum dunefield, White Sands is a true natural wonder. Sitting just outside of Alamogordo, New Mexico, it’s one of the only National Parks that is very slowly moving downwind.

Are you wondering what exactly gypsum is? It looks like salt, and feels like sand, but is in fact neither of them. Gypsum is a soft mineral composed mainly of calcium sulfate. In fact, the “sand” at White Sands National Park is soluble in water. If you put a handful of it into a glass of water, it will dissolve.

9. Antelope Hills – Oklahoma

The Antelope Hills are a small, but important landmark in the history of both Oklahoma and the United States as a whole. In addition to marking the westernmost point settlers could claim in Oklahoma during the land rush of the 1800s, it also marked the US-Mexico border.

At the time, it separated the United States’ Indian Territory from Mexico’s Alta California territory. Alta California was mostly comprised of what is currently Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, and California. The United States acquired the territory as part of the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, which ended the Mexican-American War in 1848.

The dirt road to the Antelope Hills is passable in a standard passenger car and is generally void of other traffic. However, be aware that 18-wheelers sometimes use it as a shortcut to access a nearby oil rig, so the road can be extremely washboarded at times. If you’re in the area, I encourage you to visit the nearby Black Kettle National Grassland and the Washita Battlefield National Historic Site.

10. Lee’s Ferry and Marble Canyon – Arizona

If you’re looking to avoid crowds at the Grand Canyon, make a stop near Page at Lee’s Ferry and Marble Canyon. Sitting just outside the boundaries of Grand Canyon National Park, there is plenty of space to keep yourself socially-distanced from the few other people that may be there.

Pull up a chair on the beach and stick your feet in the water to cool off. Have a picnic, read a book, or just relax and enjoy the solitude. If you’re feeling exceptionally brave, take a swim. Lee’s Ferry is only a few miles downstream of the Glen Canyon Dam, so water temperature usually top out around 45°F (7°C), even in the dead of summer.

As you leave Lee’s Ferry, stop for a few photos at the Navajo Bridge. The foot bridge provides stunning views of Marble Canyon from 500 feet above the Colorado River. Be aware that the bridge can occasionally be crowded, though large crowds are mostly a summer phenomenon.

11. Scenic Highway 12 – Utah

Utah’s Scenic Highway 12 is probably the most spectacular drive I’ve ever taken. It’s well-deserving of its distinction as an All-American Road. You’ll see the stunning rock formations near Zion National Park, the famous hoodoos of Bryce Canyon, majestic mountains, lush forests, and much more.

If Scenic Highway 12 leaves you craving more, the highway provides easy access to Zion National Park, Bryce Canyon National Park, the Burr Trail, Capitol Reef National Park, and Utah’s Scenic Highway 95. Do you have a 4×4 and a stronger quest for adventure? Many of Utah’s famous scenic backways, including Hell’s Backbone and Hole-in-the-Rock, can be found right off of Highway 12.

12. US-395 – California

Many travel guides properly designate US-395 in California as an All-American Road Trip. Running along the base of the Sierra Nevada Mountains from Ridgecrest to Lake Tahoe, there is no shortage of beautiful scenery.

After starting on the valley floor, you’ll pass through deserts, grasslands, and pine forests as you ascend to nearly 2,500 meters (8,200 feet) elevation at Conway Summit. For more than just a driving trip, US-395 offers plenty of side excursions. Turn off and explore the Alabama Hills, Inyo or Stanislaus National Forests, or one of the roads to the many ski resorts along the way.

In the wintertime, please check the road conditions for every road you plan to explore in this area. The Sierra Nevada are notorious for their massive snowstorms, which often strike fast and hard. As a result, many roads close in the winter, and you don’t want to get cut-off or stranded.

Additionally, I also recommend you carry tire chains at all times during the winter months. California requires them for most vehicles when it snows in the Sierra. If you have any doubts about snow, consider driving US-95 as an alternate. It runs parallel to US-395 on the Nevada side of the state line at a much lower elevation. It’s not quite as scenic, but it sure beats sitting around at home.

13. Gloss Mountain State Park – Oklahoma

Don’t let the fact that it’s less than 1 square mile fool you. Gloss Mountain State Park packs a punch for its small size. Take the short hike to the top of the escarpment for spectacular 360-degree views of the surrounding prairie. It’s an incredible spot to watch the sunset. Alternatively, find a quiet spot to have a picnic, ponder your thoughts, or meditate.

When you’re done, drive the Gloss Mountain Loop. The dirt track loop is part of Oklahoma’s Great Plains Trail system. While not part of the state park, it offers a unique perspective of the surrounding area, and plenty of good photo ops. You’ll probably meet a few friendly cows along the way, too.

14. Mogollon Rim – Arizona

I can only describe the Mogollon Rim as a therapeutic escape. At nearly 8,000 feet (2,200) meters above sea level, I have always used it to escape Phoenix’s scorching summer heat. There’s something truly magical when you feel the cool summer breezes through the ponderosa pines. Using that logic, it would make a great escape from Covid life as well.

The Mogollon Rim Road, Forest Road 300, runs about 75 km (45 mi) right along the edge of the rim. It passes through the Coconino and Apache-Sitgreaves National Forests, offering an incredible diversity of viewpoints and photo ops. Find a quiet spot with a great view at one of the many turnouts along the Rim Road or head over to one of the area’s many lakes and fully immerse yourself in your escape.

Note: The Mogollon Rim Road closes for the winter after the first major snowfall and usually re-opens sometime in April.

15. Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge – Oklahoma

The Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge was one of my go-to getaways when I lived in Oklahoma. Start your day with a drive up Mt. Scott for a bird’s eye overview of the refuge. At 2,500 feet (760 meters) above sea level, the summit of Mt. Scott is the highest point in the main body of Oklahoma. From the top, you’ll get a breathtaking 360 degree view of the wildlife refuge, the Wichita Mountains, and nearby towns.

Next, make your way through the wildlife refuge on State Highway 49. Stop at any of the lakes, information stations, or pullouts. You’ll often see buffalo and longhorn cattle roaming the grasslands. There is never a shortage of wildlife for bird watchers, especially during the bald eagle migrations through Oklahoma. Additionally, keep an eye out for prairie dogs peeking out from their burrows.

If you still have some time, visit Great Plains State Park and Quartz Mountain State Park. Both are located just west of the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge. They highlight the true diversity of the landscapes across southwestern Oklahoma. You’ll see much of the same wildlife and achieve the same rewarding escape.

Conclusion

I can’t stress enough the importance of taking care of your mental health during this Covid winter. There will be dark days, as well as times that feel hopeless. Having an outlet to give you a temporary escape from reality and put a smile back on your face is one of the best decisions you can make for yourself.

Top Photo: Gorgeous Landscapes at the Rainbow Point Overlook
Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah – May, 2017

The post 15 COVID-Friendly Landscape Photography Adventures in the Western United States appeared first on Matthew Gove Blog.

Recent Model Performance

Why am I so concerned? First, my coronavirus model is predicting rather apocalyptic numbers across several states. Second, the model has been deadly accurate with its projections since the beginning of July. My coronavirus model forecasts case counts for the 50 US States and 6 Canadian Provinces at 2 weeks and 1 month from the date of the model run.

A Troubling Precursor: Melbourne, Australia

The most alarming peek into the crystal ball is the significant outbreak of COVID-19 over the 2020 winter in Melbourne, Australia. Starting in late June, a cluster of cases emerged and rapidly spread through the city, peaking in early August before finally tapering off in late September.

Australian officials deemed the likely cause of the outbreak to be people letting their guard down after Australia’s strict lockdown in April. Does that sound familiar to you?

You know what’s even more concerning about this outbreak, in the context of the United States and Canada? Australia had its outbreak well under control throughout late fall and into the start of winter. The entire country averaged less than 10 new cases per day in early and mid-June. Despite officials putting Melbourne into a very strict lockdown and sealing the entire State of Victoria off from the rest of the country, cases spiked to about 800 per day at their peak in early August, an increase of 2 orders of magnitude, or about 100-fold.

Diving into the Numbers

Let’s do a quick back-of-the-envelope calculation to extrapolate Australia’s outbreak to the United States and Canada. While Australia averaged about 8 new cases per day heading into its winter, the United States is currently averaging 45,000 new cases per day, and Canada is averaging 2,000.

Keep in mind, we’ve still got 2 months to go before the start of our winter in December. It’s also unlikely that either the US or Canada will see the same strict lockdowns and restrictions that were implemented in Victoria.

45,000 * 100 = 4,500,000

2,000 * 100 = 200,000

Come on, there’s no way this will actually happen, right? I sure hope not. It’s possible, though not very likely. Remember that everyone said that the US would get a reprieve from the pandemic over the summer, only to see cases spike to 80,000 per day across the Sun Belt.

General Outlook for This Fall and Winter

In many of the states and provinces listed below, you likely will not see the huge spikes like you saw previously in places like New York City, Miami, Melbourne, Los Angeles, and Houston. Instead, it will be a much slower increase due to the lower population density in these states, but the model is showing the potential for the virus to rip through a significant portion of their populations.

In the plots below, I have extended the coronavirus model run out further than one month. Please keep in mind that its accuracy diminishes significantly past the one month mark.

Montana

Montana successfully suppressed the coronavirus over the spring and summer. It is now one of many states in the north-central United States staring down a substantial outbreak of COVID-19. This outbreak will feel much different than the outbreaks across the northeast and the Sun Belt earlier this year.

Instead of a massive and rapid spike, the disease will spread much slower through the community. However, the surge will likely last longer and impact a larger portion of the population than in more populous states.

Previous outbreaks across the northeast and the Sun Belt lasted about 2 to 3 months. Montana’s outbreak will likely last 6 to 8 months due to lower transmission rates. In the worst case scenario, the model expects about 30% of Montanans to come down with COVID-19.

North Dakota

North Dakota has by far the highest average number of new cases per capita for any state since the pandemic began, a distinction that formerly belonged to Arizona. At the peak of its summer spike, Arizona saw a maximum 7-day average of about 510 new cases per million people. North Dakota has seen that number as high as 659 within the past two weeks. The model’s current worst case scenario shows over 60% of North Dakotans contracting COVID-19 by the end of the pandemic.

Ontario

The current situation in Ontario is quite fascinating. Over the past few weeks, cases have surged, showing signs of going into a full-blown outbreak, but each time you’ve managed to pull it back from the precipice. Just how long you can keep it up is up to you. There’s still time to prevent a spike.

I am particularly concerned about the heavily populated areas along the Highway 401 corridor, as well as the City of Ottawa, as we get deeper into the fall. It won’t take much to tip things over the edge and look a lot more like neighboring Québec.

Québec

Québec has been Canada’s epicenter for the majority of the pandemic. After successfully flattening the curve throughout the summer, cases are not just trending upwards as people are driven indoors, they’re accelerating upward. Though I don’t believe any outbreak in Québec will be as bad as ones in the US, without any action, you’ll likely be at 250,000 to 300,000 cases by March, 2021.

Le Québec a été l’epicentre du Canada pour la plupart de la pandémie. Après avoir réussi à aplatir la courbe pendant tout l’été, les cas ne sont pas seulement à la hausse quand tout le monde vient à l’intérieur, ils accélèrent à la hausse. Je ne crois pas qu’une éclosion au Québec sera aussi grave que celles aux États-Unis, mais sans aucune action, vous aurez probablement entre 250,000 et 300,000 cas en mars, 2021.

South Dakota

North Dakota may own the highest average number of new cases per capita, but South Dakota just shattered all previous records for the largest single day increase in new cases per capita. Two days ago, South Dakota saw a single-day increase of 1,141 new cases per million people.

COVID-19 is considered under control when that number drops below 50 new cases per million people per day. Like North Dakota, the model’s worst case scenario shows over 60% of South Dakotans contracting COVID-19. That’s up from about 11% just a few weeks ago.

Utah

Cases in Utah have been smoldering throughout the spring and summer, but are starting to burn after a significant acceleration in the rate of spread that started in early September. Without action, I expect that the rate of spread in Utah will not just continue, it will also accelerate.

While it’s unlikely you’ll see a New York-type spike, a surge similar to the one you saw in neighboring Arizona over the summer is certainly possible. Hospital and ICU bed usage is already near record highs. The coronavirus model is currently forecasting that over 12% of Utah’s population could be infected by the end of the pandemic, so you should be taking immediate action to flatten the curve.

West Virginia

West Virginia is currently in a situation similar to Utah’s, as transmission rates have recently begun to accelerate. The model is showing the potential for a significant outbreak of cases, but the window to prevent such a scenario is till open.

Under the current trajectory, it’s unlikely West Virginia will see a New York or Florida-like spike. The hospital system can handle the current surge, but the virus slowly ripping through the population can still do a lot of damage. The latest model runs show the current surge peaking in early November, infecting at most about 8% of the population.

Wisconsin

Of all the states and provinces on this list, I am most concerned about Wisconsin. With a significant outbreak of cases already underway, exponential growth is also accelerating.

Just a couple of weeks ago, the model predicted that only 7% of Wisconsin’s population could become infected. That number has jumped to 25% with the latest model run. At the peak of Florida’s outbreak this summer, the model never predicted more than 9% of Floridians could contract COVID-19.

So why am I so concerned with Wisconsin when both of the Dakotas are showing that up to 60% of their populations could possibly be infected?

• With 5.9 million residents, Wisconsin’s population is over 3.5 times larger than the populations of North Dakota (760,000) and South Dakota (885,000) combined.
• Wisconsin’s population centers are larger and denser than anywhere in the Dakotas. The coronavirus spreads much easier in those areas.
• Much of Wisconsin’s population lives in close proximity to one of the nation’s largest cities. Chicago is a hub of economic activity, transport, travel, and much more.
  • Downtown Chicago sits just 85 km (50 mi) from the Wisconsin State Line, and 150 km (93 mi) from Milwaukee.
  • If Wisconsin’s outbreak reaches Chicago, it could spread rapidly to other parts of the United States and the world.

Wyoming

Wyoming is in the same boat as the Dakotas. It’s a low population and low population density state facing a massive, yet slow outbreak of cases. To date, Wyoming’s coronavirus trajectory has been almost identical to South Dakota’s, with a rapid acceleration in transmission rate over the past month or so.

In early September, the model’s worst-case scenarios predicted that about 4% of Wyoming’s population could become infected with COVID-19. Over the past four to five weeks, I have watched that number rapidly rise. As of yesterday’s model run, it had risen to 50%, up from 35% just the week before. It is showing no signs of slowing down.

Other States That Should Be On Alert

After ripping through the northeast and the Sun Belt, the United States’ epicenter has set its sights on the Midwest and the Mississippi River Valley. These outbreaks will now be exacerbated as cooler weather drives people indoors. There is still time to take action to prevent clusters and surges, but these states should be on high alert.

• Arkansas
• Iowa
• Kansas
• Kentucky
• Minnesota
• Missouri
• Nebraska
• Oklahoma

Additionally, any state or province with large population centers in the northern US or southern Canada should be on high alert for surges in coronavirus. Cool fall weather driving people indoors is already seeding upticks in cases in many of the following states and provinces.

• Alberta
• British Columbia
• Colorado
• Indiana
• Illinois
• Manitoba
• Massachusetts
• Michigan
• New Jersey
• New York
• Pennsylvania
• Ohio
• Washington – both Washington State and the District of Columbia

If you live in the southern half of the US, you are by no means out of the woods. This wave will reach you when cooler weather arrives later this fall. Take the time now to plan and prepare to keep yourself, your loved ones, and your fellow citizens safe.

Conclusion

Infectious disease experts have been warning us since April about the likelihood of a significant wave of coronavirus throughout the fall and winter months. Looking at preliminary data, coupled with predictions from several coronavirus models, it’s becoming increasingly clear that experts’ warnings are coming to fruition and that fall and winter wave may already be underway. Wash your hands often, wear your mask in public, and keep your distance from others, and we’ll get through this together.

Top Photo: View of the Summer Monsoon from a Lookout atop the Mogollon Rim
Payson, Arizona – July, 2017

The post My Coronavirus Model is Confirming Dire Warnings in These 9 States appeared first on Matthew Gove Blog.