If you haven’t heard the news yet, I sold my house in Arizona about a month ago to set off to travel and explore the world. Today, I want to formally invite you to follow along and experience this adventure of a lifetime with me.

Jump To: Full List of Resources to Bookmark, Subscribe, and/or Sign Up to Follow Along on this Adventure of a Lifetime

A History of Why We Travel

I first caught the travel and adventure bug chasing tornadoes as a meteorology student at the University of Oklahoma in 2011. Being able to get up close to something that is so beautiful and majestic, yet at the same time so powerful and destructive is a truly awe-inspiring experience. And paradoxically, when you get home, you can’t wait to get back out on the prairie and do it all over again. To this day, weather remains the heart and soul of my landscape and travel photography. It’s one of the main things that sets me apart from all the other travel bloggers, vloggers, and photographers out there.

Storm Chasing and Reality Collide in Heartbreak: The 2013 Moore, Oklahoma Tornado

Shortly after 3:00 PM on 20 May, 2013, an EF-5 tornado carved a 17-mile long gash through the heart of the Oklahoma City suburb of Moore. It razed one of the most densely populated areas in Oklahoma, packing 210 mph winds. Tragically, it struck 2 elementary schools and a hospital, killing 24 people on its 39-minute reign of terror. To give you an idea of just how powerful that storm was, mail with Moore addresses fell from the sky as far away as Branson, Missouri.

Destroyed Neighborhoods in Moore, Oklahoma 9 Days After the May, 2013 Tornado.

Watching the tornado tear through the heart of Moore is hard to put into words. It was a gut-wrenching, heartbreaking, and helpless feeling watching so many people’s lives get turned upside down in a matter of minutes. Yet at the same time, being so close to something that powerful was easily one of the most awe-inspiring, memorable, and incredible experiences of my life. More importantly, it really made me rethink how I viewed not just storm chasing, but also travel and photography.

Interestingly, photography really helped capture and process all of the different emotions you felt during both the tornado and the recovery. It let me tell the story in a way that’s so much more powerful than words. The outpouring of support for Moore from all over the world was truly amazing, and I take an enormous amount of pride in being able to participate in both the support and the recovery. Ever since that day, I try to tell a story with every photo series and video I produce.

Routinely Visiting Mexico During the Trump Era: The Path to Becoming a Global Citizen

After moving to Arizona in 2015, I wanted to expand my horizons even further. To immerse myself in a new culture, and my third language, I started taking routine trips to Mexico. Stepping across the border and looking at your home country from the outside is a truly eye-opening experience. You’ll gain a new appreciation for the good things you have, and expose societal and cultural flaws you thought were completely normal. That’s actually the first step to becoming a global citizen.

A global citizen is someone who is aware of the world and has a sense of their role in it. They are involved as members of the international community and are committed to building on this community in a meaningful and positive way. Becoming a global citizen will broaden your global perspective and allow you to bring fresh, new views back to your own community. Photography and video storytelling are incredibly powerful means to engage communities and raise awareness both at home and abroad.

Into Lockdown: A Deadbeat Employer and the COVID-19 Pandemic Changes Everything

You don’t know how good something is until it’s gone. That saying could not be more true after losing my traveling and photography adventures for a period that’s measured in years. First, in late 2017, a company I had been working with decided to stop paying me and not tell me. I discovered this the day after signing the purchase contracts to buy my house.

When the dust settled, they had stolen nearly $50,000 in wages from me. By that time, the company had gone into bankruptcy and the CEO had fled the country. I didn’t see a dime from them. The ensuing financial struggle forced me into a de-facto lockdown as I started to dig myself out of the hole. Because I used photography as an escape during hard times, it just felt like a part of your identity was gone.

Thankfully, my fortunes turned around quickly. I landed a new contract with a new company that gave me basically full-time hours. When that project wrapped up in late 2019, I had finally dug myself out of that awful financial hole. The future was once again bright. Then the pandemic hit, and it was back into lockdown as the world slammed shut.

Severe Burnout was the Final Straw

Being locked down for 4 out of the last 5 years makes you question everything that’s brought you to this point. Then throw severe burnout from the stresses of the pandemic and the fallout from the 2020 election in Arizona (read: death threats and people waving guns at you from both sides of the political aisle pretty much anywhere you went in public) on top of that. It became clear that the only path forward was a major life overhaul. So I threw all my stuff in a storage unit in Las Vegas, put the house on the market, and set my eyes on traveling the world. For the first time since 2019, it actually felt like I had control over my future again.

A New Mission and Vision

When you go through such a major overhaul, it never hurts to redefine exactly what you want to get out of your next chapter. For me, it’s a chance to spread good in the world and pay it forward for everyone that helped me get through all those dark days.

Matthew Gove Web Development will Shift to Focus Exclusively on Telling Your Story Through Web-Based Data Science, GIS Maps, and Visual Media

As we step into this next chapter, there are some major changes coming to Matthew Gove Web Development. Most notably, we will no longer be building websites or doing straight web development (existing clients will be grandfathered in). After severely burning out last fall, it became clear that pure web development was one of the primary causes of the burnout. I’m not sure what triggered it, but I just don’t enjoy doing it anymore. It’s simply time to move on.

Instead, our mission has shifted to telling your story using web-based data science, GIS, and visual media – photography, videos, and graphic design. And just as it always has been, Python, mathematics, and logic will power nearly all of that content. We want to inspire the world through immersive storytelling that raises awareness to your missions and passions.

Video Will Play a Major Role in Our Next Chapter

It’s no secret that video has exploded in popularity over the past several years. Indeed, video consumption is expected to make up between 70 and 80 percent of all internet traffic by 2025. Which is precisely why we’re adding it to our repertoire.

After learning the art of video storytelling during the lockdowns, we will be posting videos of this adenture-of-a-lifetime on YouTube. Having done still photography for over 15 years, I’ve found the transition from still photography to videos has been largely seamless. However, I’d be lying to you if I said there was no learning curve. And best of all, telling stories with video has allowed me to really fine-tune my still photography, making it even better than it was before.

Video is the Perfect Complement to Still Photography

With still photography, my goal has always been to immerse you in the journey. However, with video, you won’t just be able to listen to our stories. You’ll be able to experience them with us. Photography is a visual-only medium of a single moment frozen in time. Video, on the other hand, immerses you in both visuals and sound, allowing you experience the adventure in a much more in-depth and complete manner. Here’s a sneak peek.

Now is this video my best work? Probably not. But considering all I had at my dispense was a GoPro and a cell phone, I’d say it came out pretty darn well.

As we pivot into this next exciting chapter, I will be investing close to $100,000 of proceeds from the house sale directly into the business. Most importantly, all of our equipment will be getting a much-needed upgrade. We’ll be getting new state-of-the-art cameras, computers, drones, software, and much more. But we’re far from stopping just here.

The Matt Gove Photo Store: Your Go-To Resource for All Things Travel, Photography, and Videography

Back in 2008, someone approached me and told me I should put my photos up for sale online. At the time, I was heading into my senior year of college, so all of my time was put towards completing my degree. But I put that comment about selling my photos in my back pocket and held onto it tight. I knew I wanted to sell my photos online. I just didn’t know when I would have the opportunity to. Over the next decade, it seemed like I either had the time or the money to launch the store, but never both at the same time. And then, the pandemic gave me the opportunity I had been waiting 13 years for.

In June 2021, the Matt Gove Photo Store formally opened its doors. While the initial product line was (and still is) quite limited, we will be massively expanding the store’s offerings over the next two to three years. In addition to photo prints, you’ll be able to purchase travel guides for your next adventure, Adobe Lightroom presets to improve your photography, online courses to learn the art of photography and video storytelling, and much, much more.

New Products Coming in 2022 and 2023

We are also working a brand new design for the store that will greatly enhance your shopping experience. If it hasn’t already launched when this is published, the new store design will be rolled out within a week or two of this post. Sales from our store help fund the rich, immersive, and interactive content we produce every single week. Your support only helps us add even more quality and value to our photos, videos, maps, courses, and much more. Shop Now.

You Are Formally Invited to Join Us (Virtually) and Experience the Adventure of a Lifetime

I want to formally invite you to join us virtually, follow along, and experience this once-in-a-lifetime adventure with us. Here is the full list of our websites, channels, and everything else you need to tag along.

If you’re subscribed to either the Matt Gove Photo or Matthew Gove Web Development Facebook pages, please note that they will no longer be maintained or updated. In fact, I plan to close them down later this year. I strongly disagree with the way Facebook conducts itself, and can get my message out much better on other platforms. Please bookmark, subscribe, and/or sign up for any of the platforms listed above to stay up-to-date with the latest news.

A Sneak Peek at Our First Destinations

Okay, I know you’re itching to know where we’re going first. What are you going to experience when you tune into our YouTube channel for the latest video? As we wait for the world to fully reopen coming out of the pandemic, we expect to be confined to North America and the Caribbean for at least the rest of this year.

Before setting off to explore the world, one of the most important things you can do is to travel and experience as much of your home country as you can. As a result, my top short-term travel goal is to visit all 50 U.S. States. With the count of visited states currently sitting at 43, I hope to be able to tick off the remainder of the Lower 48 this summer. The remaining two – Alaska and Hawaii – will require a bit more planning. Additionally, I would like to visit all 13 Canadian provinces and territories, and also as many Mexican States as possible. 

A Summer Road Trip Across Canada

This summer, I’ll be doing a road trip across Canada on my way to one of my best friends’ wedding in California. After getting stuffed by bad weather in 2015 and 2019, I hope this will finally be the year that the weather cooperates at the Quebec National Parks. And seeing Jasper, Banff, and Yoho National Parks has long been on my bucket list. As for the rest of the trip, well, those plans are still in the works.

Heading to the Tropics for Some Warm Weather Next Winter

Furthermore, between the 2021 polar vortex and my adventures driving across the northern Rockies this past February, I am some ready for some warm weather. To that end, I’ll be heading south of the border to spend next winter in Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula. From our base in Mérida, the capital of Yucatán state, immerse yourself in rich Mayan and Mexican culture. 

Explore Mayan ruins, including Chichén Itzá, that are scattered throughout not just the Yucatán, but also parts of Guatemala. Cool off in the cenotes and relax on the palm-tree lined beaches. And if that’s not enough, the Yucatán is a great jumping off point to explore both Central America and the Caribbean. 

Barring any resurgence of COVID, we’ll finally expand beyond North America once we get into 2023 – most likely to Southeast Asia and/or South America. And are you curious as to what videos are coming down the pipe in the mean time? Have a look at the photo albums (2021 and 2022) from our recent 3-month trip across the western United States. We’ll have travel videos from every single one of those adventures coming in the following weeks.

Conclusion

There’s no better feeling in life than a fresh start or a new beginning. And I can’t think of a better way to do it than set out on a true adventure-of-a-lifetime. If you want to join us, our website, YouTube channel, and email newsletter are the best ways to follow along, as well as this blog. And if you have any questions, recommendations, or even just want to get together and collaborate on a project, please don’t hesitate to reach out to me any time. Thank you for your support. Let’s hit the road.

Top Photo: A Tranquil Turquoise Lagoon Surrounded by Majestic Snow-Capped Mountains Cleanses the Soul at Lake Tahoe
Incline Village, Nevada – February, 2020

The post The Next Chapter: We’re Setting off to Explore the World. Here’s How to Follow Along. appeared first on Matthew Gove Blog.

Anthony Bourdain once famously said, “Travel changes you. As you move through this life and this world you change things slightly, you leave marks behind, however small. And in return, life — and travel — leaves marks on you.” Travel has left plenty of marks on me over the years. However, this quote really hit home after a recent road trip I took through California. Today, I want to share that story with you.

What Causes Severe Drought in Western States Such as California?

Most people attribute drought to the lack of rain. However, it’s actually not the primary cause of severe drought in the western United States. To find the culprit, you need to look in an unexpected place. In fact, you’ll find it in the exact opposite of the summer season that makes headlines for searing temperatures and massive wildfires.

The winter season actually determines how severe the drought will be in California and throughout the west. More specifically, the amount of snow that falls in the mountains is what drives drought levels. In the spring, the snow melt feeds rivers, streams, and creeks, providing water to the valleys below. Unlike a rainstorm, snow melt is a slow process that provides a steady supply of water for months. And for many rivers, snow melt is their only source of water.

Most of California’s mountains snows fall in the Sierra Nevada. Rising over 14,000 feet above sea level, the Sierra runs pretty much the entire length of California’s eastern border with Nevada. During normal winters, pretty much every snow event in the Sierras is measured in feet, not inches. Snow melt from the Sierra Nevada alone provides water over 25 million Californians – about 65% of the state’s population.

The California Drought: Data and Statistics

Before diving into the drought data for the entire state of California, let’s have a look at annual snowfall in the Sierra Nevada over the past ten years. We’ll at two hotspots for heavy snow. First up is Donner Pass, which sits along Interstate 80 just west of Truckee and northwest of Lake Tahoe. Then, we’ll look Mammoth Mountain, one of California’s most popular ski resorts. Mammoth Mountain sits about 45 miles (72 km) southeast of Yosemite National Park.

Snowfalls are Way Down in Recent Years Throughout the West

From the bar chart, it’s pretty clear that snow levels in the Sierra Nevada are way down every year since 2018. This pattern is echoed across mountain ranges throughout the west, from Washington to New Mexico. As a result, water levels have plummeted across the entire region due to the lack of snow melt. The southwestern states, plus California have born the brunt of the recent drought.

To further compound the matter, smaller snowpacks mean that the snow melts faster. In 2021, snowpack across the entire state of California had completely melted by May, about two to three months earlier than average. The faster rate of snow melt results in most of the water running off instead of being absorbed into soils that so desperately need it.

As you can probably deduce, dry soils lock a layer of extremely dry air at the surface throughout the summer months. Unfortunately, that only makes it harder for much needed rain to reach the ground. Much of California is caught in this vicious positive feedback loop that only makes the drought worse.

An Anthony Bourdain Quote and a Trip Up Interstate 5 Makes the Severity of the California Drought Really Hit Home

In January 2022, I took a road trip from Las Vegas to Salem, Oregon. Coupled with a stop to visit one of my best friends in San Francisco, the trip took me across nearly the entire state of California. It marked my first visit to California since February, 2020.

During that time, both the drought and wildfires have gotten exponentially worse, thanks to a lack of snowpack in the mountains. And seeing areas that were so lush and vibrant in 2017 now completely ravaged by drought and wildfire really left a big mark on me. In ways that really didn’t expect.

“Travel changes you. As you move through this life and this world you change things slightly, you leave marks behind, however small. And in return, life – and travel – leaves marks on you.”

Anthony Bourdain

A Stunning Drive Through California’s Central Valley

If you’ve never driven through California’s Central Valley, it’s one of the more uniquely spectacular drives in the United States. Responsible for 8% of the United States’ agricultural output, the Central Valley features lush and fertile fields surrounded by majestic mountains. It’s hard to not feel a special connection to nature. And if you drive through at the right time of year, the smell of fresh fruits and vegetables is heavenly.

Furthermore, when I drove through in mid-January, farmers were in the process of prepping and seeding their fields for the spring and summer growing seasons. Passing through the Central Valley was like a cleansing and rebirth for you mind and soul. At times, you felt like you were in a fairy tale, having been teleported to some faraway land. The pandemic and all the other problems in the world felt so far away.

A Stunning Snow-Capped Mt. Shasta Completes the Fairy Tale

Towering 14,179 feet above sea level and over 10,000 feet above the surrounding terrain, Mt. Shasta dominates the northern California landscape. It’s the second tallest mountain in the Cascades, behind only Mt. Rainier. And Rainier is only 250 feet taller. On a clear day, you can see Mt. Shasta from as far as Central Oregon, over 140 miles away. You can actually find some of the best views of Mt. Shasta right from both US-97 and Interstate 5.

Surrounding Mt. Shasta, you’ll find simply breathtaking scenery. Golden meadows, stunning rolling hills, and refreshing pine forests transport you even further into that fairy tale. All those worries you had to start the day seem even further away than they did down in the Central Valley.

As a photographer, I try to keep an eye out for good photo ops on road trips. However, a truly spectacular composition catches your eye right away. Shortly after beginning the climb out of the Central Valley up into the Cascades, I came around a corner on Interstate 5 and into a clearing. And what lay before me was one of the most perfectly composed landscapes I had ever seen.

Off in the distance sat Mt. Shasta, perfectly framed between two smaller mountains. It provided a beautiful backdrop for seemingly endless meadows and rolling hills that disappeared into a light haze that shrouded the base of the mountain. Small ponds dotted the foreground on the side of the freeway, adding even more diversity to the shot. It was a combination of beautiful, mysterious, and exotic, balanced to perfection. The perfect composition to capture the fairy tale I had drifted off into.

You Can’t Stop on the Freeway to Take Pictures

Unfortunately, I also had a few things working against me. Most critically, I was cruising at 70 miles per hour up Interstate 5. There were no exits or pullouts nearby, and I wasn’t about to stop in the middle of a busy freeway just to take a picture. Furthermore, there was no safe way for me to take a picture with my DSLR camera while I was driving. But I wasn’t going to let this perfect photo op go to waste.

While using my big camera was out of the question, I still had one more tool available to me. And at this point, it was really my only option. I grabbed my phone, rolled down the passenger side window, leaned over far enough to get the window frame out of the picture, and blindly started snapping as I kept looking forward to keep my eyes on the road.

I expected to get a decent shot. What I didn’t expect was to get one of the best photos I’ve ever taken, and one that will be put up for sale in our store very soon.

Then reality hit, hard. Like being hit by a Mack truck hard.

A California Landscape Ravaged by Wildfire and Drought

Over the past five years, parts of the Shasta-Trinity National Forest have been devastated by several major wildfires. The extreme drought that has suffocated California for much of that time has only made these fires larger and more intense. Most notable, the Carr Fire torched nearly 230,000 acres in the summer of 2018, forcing 38,000 people to evacuate their homes. It killed 11 people and caused $1.7 billion in damage.

Fast-forward three years. In late June, 2021, another fire broke out along Interstate 5 just north of Lake Shasta. That blaze, dubbed the Salt Fire, torched 13,000 acres on both sides of the freeway. While few people live in the area, the intensity of the fire devastated the landscape, changing it into a barren wasteland for years to come. The drought is one of the prime culprits behind the increase in both intensity and magnitude of these fires in California. But it’s not the only culprit. And there were far more blazes than just the two we’ve discussed here.

From Lush Forest to Charred Hellscape

Like many natural disasters, you simply cannot grasp the scale of these California wildfires from newscasts on television. The only way to properly do so is by traveling to the burn area and seeing the devastation firsthand. And when you’re driving through lush green forests, it hits e0ven harder when it catches you by surprise. Which is exactly what the burn scar from the Salt Fire did. You come around a corner, and bam, the landscape instantly changes.

The Salt Fire completely incinerated everything in its path. It wiped entire parts of the National Forest completely off the map. It was just blackened hills and a few remaining trunks of the trees that had burned. Everything else was gone. As far as the eye could see. Even six months after the fire, the smoky smell of burnt wood still faintly hung in the air.

Combined with the Wildfire Devastation, the California Drought at Lake Shasta Really Left Its Mark on Me. It Should Leave its Mark on You, Too.

The second I drove into that burn scar north of Redding, it instantly ended that fairy tale from the Central Valley. But interestingly, it didn’t leave as big a mark as you would have thought. For that, it took driving across the bridge at Lake Shasta to see the true effect the drought and the fires have had on California. It hits hard and it hits heavy, but it’s a series of pictures everyone should see.

View of Lake Shasta from Interstate 5 in August, 2017 (left) vs January, 2022 (right). Click on the image to enlarge.

And while the water level in the lake should be what instantly catches your eye, did you notice the mountains behind the lake in the 2022 picture? They were all burned in the recent fires. It’s hard to see in the 2017 photo because the lake was shrouded in smoke, but the forest was lush green back then.

Conclusion

As Anthony Bourdain so famously said, travel changes you and leaves its mark on you. But at the same time, it gives us the opportunity to leave our mark on it. We can use these experiences and lessons to influence our own decisions. The vast majority of wildfires in the United States are the result of human error. We can make better decisions to help prevent states like California from burning, as well as reduce the effect of severe drought. What steps will you take?

To wrap this all up, let’s go full circle and end with another Anthony Bourdain quote: “Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.” What good will you leave behind? Let us know in the comments.

If you want to stay up-to-date with our latest adventures or want more travel guides, please consider signing up for our email newsletter. We’ll send these travel guides, plus exclusive deals, tutorials, and much more, straight to your inbox, twice per month, all for free.

Top Photo: Low Water Levels Due to Severe Drought
Lake Shasta, California – January, 2022

The post A Powerful, Heartbreaking Exhibit of the Severe Drought in California appeared first on Matthew Gove Blog.

Five years later, I did finally get back. On a family trip in 2017, we checked off Zion (again), Bryce Canyon, and Capitol Reef National Parks in southern Utah. Despite being so close to each other, all three National Parks are so different, so unique, and so breathtaking. But the two northern Utah National Parks, Arches and Canyonlands, remained elusive. And living in Arizona, it was another frustrating case of so close, but yet so far. Year after year. But that only made me more driven than ever to get there.

What Are the “Big 5” National Parks in Utah?

If you’re unfamiliar with Utah’s geography, the state has an incredible diversity of National Parks, National Monuments, National Forests, National Recreation Areas, and Bureau of Land Management (BLM) land. Utah is quite literally a recreation paradise that offers just about every outdoor activity you can think of. The five national parks in Utah are, in alphabetical order:

1. Arches National Park
2. Bryce Canyon National Park
3. Canyonlands National Park
4. Capitol Reef National Park
5. Zion National Park

Zion, Bryce Canyon, and Capitol Reef National Parks are clustered together in the southern part of Utah. At the same time, Arches and Canyonlands National Parks sit about 30 minutes apart in northeastern Utah.

The COVID-19 Pandemic Provides Motivation for Going to Check Off Bucket List Items

I, like many people, took a lot of things for granted prior to the COVID-19 pandemic, including travel and photography. When the world shut down in March, 2020, it took the travel and photography away from me. For over a year and a half, it felt like part of me was missing. And in a way, it was. But instead of seeing the pandemic as a setback, it became a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for me.

The pandemic has made me more driven than ever to pursue my passions, goals, and mission. I decided to further integrate travel, photography, and videography into the core of my business. It led me to realize exactly what I want life to look like. And now, it’s time to chase those new dreams.

Utah National Parks: Trip Background and Motivation

The primary purpose of this trip was to take care of the business of selling my house in Arizona. However, I wanted to make sure I mixed in a bunch of fun, too. And that has nothing to do with the fact that moving sucks, and I’ve done it far too many times. It’s because I haven’t had a fun trip since my 2019 Road Trip across Mexico, the United States, and Canada. Two and a half years is a very long time to go without something that you’re not only passionate about, but also something you use as an escape from tough times.

The logistics for the trip came into place absolutely perfectly. Because COVID-19 was still raging in the south, I opted for the northern route (I-80) across most of the country. Furthermore, one of my friends had just moved to Boulder, Colorado, which was also conveniently right along the way. But best of all, it meant that I’d be driving right by the two remaining Utah National Parks – Arches and Canyonlands – that I had yet to visit, on my way back to Arizona. Unfortunately, I only had about a day and a half to explore both parks, so I wanted to make sure I made the most of every minute I had.

Day 1: Catching Sunset at Arches National Park

After a spectacular drive across the Colorado Rockies on Interstate 70 from Boulder, I rolled into Moab around 3:30 PM local time. After checking into the hotel, I didn’t even bother heading up to the room. I headed straight to Arches National Park. This was in early December, so I only had about an hour and a half to familiarize myself with the park and scope out a good place for a sunset photo shoot.

I Nearly Missed the Sunset Because I Wasn’t Paying Attention

If you’ve ever been to Arches before, you’ll know that it takes about 45 minutes to drive from one end of the park to the other. Unfortunately, I didn’t realize this because it was my first time at Arches. If there’s one thing you need to know about me, it’s that I tend to pull off and shoot a lot of photos and videos my first time I visit somewhere new. This is especially true for a place as beautiful as Arches.

After what felt like just a short few moments, I looked down at the clock. It was almost 4:40 PM. I only had about 15 minutes to find a spot to watch the 5:00 PM sunset. And wasn’t even half way through the park, yet. That’s about when that little bit of panic sets in. Am I going to miss sunset because I was being an idiot and not paying attention to the clock? Not if I can help it. To make matters worse, there’s no cell service inside the park, either.

Thankfully, with the help of my GPS and the brochures the National Park Service gives you when you enter each park, I identified a good spot several miles back that would be a good spot to watch sunset. But could I make it in time? The truck may have felt like an Indy Car at times racing back to that spot, but rest assured I obeyed the speed limit at all times. And the timing ended up being perfect, as I got there about 7 minutes before sunset.

Post-Sunset Twilight at Arches National Park is Absolutely Magical

If you think the golden hour is a magical time for landscape photography, you’ve never seen Arches National Park during that 40-or-so-minute window of dusk and twilight following sunset. The entire landscape is cast in a spectacular color. It starts as a vibrant violet or purple right after sunset and slowly shifts to a navy blue hue as dusk progresses. When contrast against Arches’ brilliant red rocks and a fresh blanket of snow on the top of the nearby LaSal Mountains, it’s no wonder why these are such sought-after shots. The same goes for all of the other Utah National Parks, too.

While watching the last dregs of light disappear from the western horizon, I was completely awe-struck by what I had witnessed. It was really that beautiful. I could have easily sat there all night watching the stars, but that’s a project for another day. Time to head back to the hotel to get dinner and a good night’s sleep.

Utah National Parks Day 2: Diving Deeper into Arches and an Afternoon at Canyonlands

After waking up, I rolled over and looked at the clock. 6:20 AM. Then I opened the weather app on my phone to check the sunrise. 7:23 AM. There was more than enough time to get to Arches to see the sunrise. I hadn’t originally planned to get up in time for sunrise because thick cloud cover was expected to roll in early that morning. But skies were still relatively clear, so I quickly got dressed and headed back up to Arches. I wouldn’t be able to live with myself if I missed a beautiful sunrise.

The Arches Sunset was Breathtaking. Then Sunrise Said “Hold My Beer.”

If there’s one thing I learned in all the years I spent storm chasing, it’s that plans rarely go off without a hitch. Mother Nature always seems to throw you a curveball at some point. Sometimes it’s for the better. Other (read: more often) times it’s not. Up at Arches that morning, the weather gods were looking out for us. The arrival of the thick cloud cover was delayed a few hours. It left absolutely perfect conditions for a beautiful sunrise in its place.

To Fully Experience Arches National Park, You Need to Get Out and Hike

Despite the gloomy skies and cold temperatures, I was actually most looking forward to doing some hiking at Arches National Park. After catching the sunrise, I headed up to Devil’s Garden, at the far northern end of the park. My friend in Boulder had recommended this hike because it gave you the most bang for your buck for seeing as many arches as possible if you didn’t have much time. And boy, was he ever right.

After setting off from the trailhead, you only need to hike about 600 feet, or 200 meters, to reach the first arch. From there, you’ll see 4 additional arches in the first mile of the trail, which will bring you to Landscape Arch. In September, 1991, visitors at Landscape Arch witnessed one of the largest rock falls in Arches National Park history. After hearing some cracking sounds, nearly 180 tons of rock fell from the bottom of Landscape Arch to the ground below. Those rocks still litter the landscape today.

Following the rock fall, park rangers closed the trail that led underneath Landscape Arch. That trail remains closed to this day. However, you can still get plenty close enough to get good photos and videos of it.

While you can make a loop through even more arches past Landscape Arch, I opted to return to the parking lot. The end of the main trail is at Landscape Arch, and I didn’t want to risk getting lost on the primitive trail. Plus, there were other parts of the park I still wanted to see, and I didn’t have a whole lot of time left, so I hiked the 1 mile (1.6 km) back to the parking lot.

Don’t Miss Delicate Arch, which is Utah’s Most Famous Arch

Even if you’ve never heard of Delicate Arch, I’ll be willing to bet that you’ve seen it before. It’s one of the most famous geologic features in the world. You can find pictures of it on tourism brochures, guides, and promotions not just in Utah, but throughout the western United States. It’s one of the most photographed spots in the entire National Park system, and even appears on the Utah license plate. And you can find it at Arches National Park.

Unfortunately, I did not have time to hike the three mile (4.8 km) round trip to Delicate Arch. And I’ll be the first to admit, I was a bit lazy too. The previous hike in the cold certainly didn’t help. But that didn’t stop me from getting pictures of it. You just have to work smarter, not harder.

There is a lookout where you can view Delicate Arch from two viewpoints off of a parking lot about half a mile (just under 1 km) from Delicate Arch. I had hoped to hike to the closer viewpoint, but I found barricades across the trail. It was closed for maintenance. So I got my big telephoto lens and walked out to the second, further away viewpoint. All I can say is, well, telephoto lens for the win!

Take Another Short Hike at The Windows on the Way Out of Arches National Park

If you’re short on time, I can’t recommend a hike at The Windows enough. At 0.7 miles (1.1 km) round trip, it’s an easy, relatively flat hike that will net you three additional arches. You’ll first visit the beautiful pair of arches that make up The Windows. You can actually hike right up underneath them and take in the view on the other side. Then, turn around and you’ll find a bonus: Turret Arch. While it doesn’t dominate the landscape the way The Windows do, Turret Arch is a great place to get your picture taken standing underneath the arch.

Well, Arches, it’s been real, but it’s nearly mid-day, so it’s time to head over to Canyonlands.

Canyonlands National Park: An Island in the Sky

The main entrance to Canyonlands National Park is about a half hour north of Arches National Park. Driving into Canyonlands for the first time felt an awful lot like the first time I visited the Grand Canyon. After a beautiful drive across the plateau, you arrive at the entrance station. A short distance from the entrance station, you get your first view of the canyon. And you realize right away why they call it Island in the Sky.

Like Grand Canyon, the Colorado River is responsible for carving Canyonlands National Park out of the surrounding plateau. Canyonlands also is broken into two areas. However, you’ll notice a few distinct differences. First, Canyonlands is much shallower and much wider than Grand Canyon. Second, it’s much less crowded, and you can actually drive down to the river. It’s a primitive dirt road through gnarly backcountry, but that’s a story for another day.

Canyonlands’ Grand Overview

The road into Canyonlands National Park ends at Grand View Point, about 12 miles (19 km) from the Visitor’s Center. I recommend you start there for two reasons. First, it’s the best view in the whole park. Grand View Point features 270-degree views of the surrounding canyons. Second, by starting at Grand View Point and working your way back to the Visitor’s Center, you’ll be able to see the whole park if you run out of time.

A Different Perspective Around Every Corner

One of my favorite aspects of my trips to Grand Canyon National Park is that for all of the pulloffs and lookouts it has, each one has a different perspective of the canyon. Canyonlands is the exact same. I stopped at every overlook I could find, and they photos simply speak for themselves.

Take an Excursion Down Upheaval Dome Road

About half way between the Visitor’s Center and Grand View Point, you’ll find the turnoff for Upheaval Dome Road. Along the road, you’ll find numerous hiking opportunities, as well as plenty of pullouts, overlooks, and beautiful scenery. I hiked short distances down both the Upheaval Dome and Whale Rock trails, but the windy, cold, and raw weather made longer hikes rather unpleasant. I guess that’s just another excuse to return to Canyonlands in the future.

The sun going in and out of the clouds did, however, make for some spectacular lighting in both photos and videos. The sun shines through the clouds like a spotlight on the landscape, bathing the jagged landscape in a beautiful, warm light. Again, here, I’ll just let the photos tell the story.

A Deserted Mesa Arch will Make Even The Most Seasoned Instagrammers Jealous

Mesa Arch is the most popular photo spot in Canyonlands National Park. Sought after by everyone from professional landscape photographers to social media influencers, Mesa Arch is best known for its sunrise photo ops. In fact, it’s so popular that there is actually a sign there telling people not to take too much time taking photos at the arch itself so that other people have a chance to take pictures as well.

One of the biggest perks of being at both Arches and Canyonlands National Parks in early December is that you’re there at the peak of the offseason. As a result, I had both parks to pretty much myself. Even at the most popular hiking trails, there may be two or three other cars in the parking lot, but other than that, it was completely empty. And best of all, this is what Mesa Arch looked like. Just admit it. I know you’re jealous.

Sunset at Canyonlands

As I made my way down the hill back to the Mesa Arch trailhead, the western sky was starting to clear. Conditions weren’t quite as perfect as they had been at Arches that morning, but if they held, sunset would be spectacular. Not wanting to repeat the same mistake two days in a row, I knew exactly where I wanted to go photograph the Canyonlands sunset: the Green River Overlook. And best of all, it’s only about a three-minute drive from the Mesa Arch trailhead.

I got to the Green River Overlook at about 4:15 PM for a 5 PM sunset. Conditions still looked really good for sunset. However, I knew from my training in meteorology that it was pretty much a flip of a coin whether it would hold on long enough to give us a beautiful sunset. And while everything aligned perfectly that morning for the sunrise at Arches, this one unfortunately went the other way.

By about 4:35 PM, thick clouds had rolled in, covering the western sky. You just knew those clouds were there to stay. There would be no spectacular Canyonlands sunset that day, as thick clouds just kept rolling in. But they couldn’t take away the spectacular view at the overlook.

Even though the sunset didn’t work out, it was impossible to drive back to Moab fully dejected. It had been an incredible day-and-a-half exploring Arches and Canyonlands National Parks. Plus, I still the southern (Needles) part of Canyonlands to look forward to the next day. I ended the day with some really good Thai food in Moab. Basil chicken with some of the best hot chili sauce I’ve ever had.

Day 3: The Rest of Canyonlands Leads to a Couple Unexpected Surprises

On my final morning in Utah, I woke up to a very unexpected surprise. Winter Storm Warnings were up for most of east-central and southeastern Utah. Parts of San Juan County, which sits just south of Moab, could see heavy blowing snow and up to 8 inches of accumulation. It had my attention.

While conditions were fine in Moab itself, I knew that things could be much different once you get south of town, where you climb from from about 4,000 feet up to 7,000 feet in elevation. Further complicating the matter, the only route available to get back to Arizona took me right through the heart of the Winter Storm Warning. Conditions would only deteriorate as the morning went along, so I didn’t waste any time getting on the road heading south.

The Needles District of Canyonlands National Park

While Island in the Sky and Needles – the two districts of Canyonlands National Park – sit just across the canyon from each other, the two entrances are about 70 miles (113 km) apart. Because of its proximity to Moab and better views of the canyon, Island in the Sky sees far more visitors than the Needles district. Needles is generally considered to be much more rustic and remote than Island in the Sky. It’s the same phenomenon you see in the South vs North Rims of the Grand Canyon.

As luck would have it, the majority of the Needles district was north of the Winter Storm Warning. However, as I approached the turnoff, it became very clear that the turnoff that went to the entrance of the Needles District was far enough south that it fell within the Winter Storm Warning. By the time I got to the turnoff, light snow had begun falling, and gusty winds were starting to pick up. There was also a sign stating that the road into the Needles District of Canyonlands National Park was closed due to the incoming snowstorm. So I begrudgingly continued south.

A Second Unexpected Surprise Checks off Another Bucket List Item

By the time I rolled into the town of Blanding in southeastern Utah, I was through the Winter Storm Warning, but I still didn’t know what I wanted to do as. an alternative to Canyonlands. I knew that the very least, I wanted to go take photos of the rock that gave the town of Mexican Hat its name. In addition, I also planned to stop at the famous movie spot north of Monument Valley where they filmed the scene in which Forrest Gump stopped running.

Valley of the Gods: Checking Off Another Bucket List Item

As I made my way towards Mexican Hat, a small sign on the side of the road caught my eye. That sign was for Valley of the Gods Road, with an arrow pointing off into the desert. Holy crap! That’s the perfect alternative for Canyonlands. Driving through the Valley of the Gods had been on my bucket list ever since I moved to Arizona. I had hoped to drive it on my trip through southern Utah in 2017, but I had my parents with me then. We simply didn’t have enough time to drive it. Furthermore, my mom and dad didn’t want to go bouncing down a dirt road for two hours.

As you turn down Valley of the Gods Road, there are huge signs warning you that the road becomes impassable when wet, even with four wheel drive. And with that winter storm just to the north, rain was a very real possibility. With the last fleeting bar of cell service, I tried to pull up the nearest radar, which was in Grand Junction, Colorado. No signal. I tried and tried again. Still no signal. Finally, the radar image appeared. Rain was just on the other side of the mesa that formed the western boundary of the Valley of the Gods. It couldn’t have been more than 15 or 20 miles (25 to 32 km) away, and it was heading straight at me.

Will the Rain Hold Off or Render the Road Impassable?

My background in meteorology gave me a gut feeling that the mesa would likely be tall enough to wring all of the rain out of the clouds, preventing it from reaching the Valley of the Gods. A closer look at the radar showed that the line of rain was struggling to push east as it approached the mesa.

I was this close to checking off another bucket list item, plus had just gotten stuffed up at Canyonlands. I didn’t come all this way just to go home empty-handed. So I took the gamble that the mesa would keep the rain at bay. And boy, was it ever worth it. I did not see a drop of rain in the nearly three hours I was in Valley of the Gods.

Conclusion

By far, the best part about visiting national parks like Arches and Canyonlands in the offseason is that you basically have the entire park to yourself. If you can tolerate the cold, damp, raw, and even snow, you’re bound to have a fantastic time. And that goes for not just Arches and Canyonlands, but for National Parks across Utah and the rest of the west. Having now visited all of the “Big 5” National Parks in Utah, it only intensifies the drive to return to the parks, dive much deeper into them, and be able to fully experience and explore everything the Utah National Parks have to offer. This time, I just hope it will take shorter than 5 years to make it back there.

Top Photo: The sun begins to rise at Arches National Park
Moab, Utah – December, 2021

The post Arches and Canyonlands: A Remarkable Two Day Adventure to Northern Utah National Parks appeared first on Matthew Gove Blog.

While Interstate 80 follows the Oregon Trail’s approximate route across the majority of Nebraska, you’ll need to get off the Interstate to fully immerse yourself in an incredible piece of American history. You’ll literally be walking over the exact same spots the wagon trains followed over 180 years ago. And if that’s not enough, you can still see and wagon ruts at many landmarks across Nebraska, Wyoming, and Idaho. And on this trip, you’ll actually be able to walk right along side them.

Overview

You’ll want to start your day either in Lincoln or Omaha and head west along Interstate 80. Along the way, you’ll stop at forts, hills, springs, and rivers. Your journey will cover nearly 500 miles (800 km) of the Oregon Trail from one end of Nebraska to the other.

As you set off for your journey west, take that first hour once you get west of Lincoln to truly appreciate just how endless, open, and expansive the Nebraska prairie is. Put yourself in the shoes of the settlers and emigrants traveling the Oregon Trail. Imagine what they were thinking seeing that prairie for the first time. What did you think when you saw the endless prairie for the first time?

A Word About Nebraska’s Weather

When you plan your Oregon Trail trip across Nebraska, be aware that Nebraska’s weather can be extreme and volatile at times. Summer temperatures routinely exceed 90 to 95°F (32 to 35°C). In the winter, sub-zero temperatures are common. Average low temperatures across the state drop to 10 to 15°F (-12 to -9°C) at their coldest point. Furthermore, snow and wind can cause blizzards that can paralyze the state.

Finally, don’t forget about the state’s location in Tornado Alley. Tornado season in Nebraska peaks in the late spring, from May to early June. When you come to Nebraska, make sure you plan and dress accordingly for the weather conditions you’ll likely experience.

Buy a Nebraska State Parks Entry Permit

Several of your stops on this Oregon Trail road trip are at Nebraska State Parks. To enter the state parks, you’ll need to buy an entry permit from the state, either online or at the park. You can buy daily or annual passes. Passes will get you into all of the Nebraska State Parks for either the day or the year, so you don’t need to buy a pass at every park you visit. In addition, as of the time this article was published, all National Park facilities along your route route do not charge entry fees.

Prepare for Your Journey at Fort Kearny

Fort Kearny was the first fort settlers on both the Oregon and California Trails reached on their journey west. The U.S. Army established the fort in 1848 to protect emigrants from the threat of Native American attacks. Today, Fort Kearny is one of Nebraska’s State and Historical Parks. You will need to buy an entry permit either online or at the park before going off to explore the fort.

Fort Kearny itself is located just across the river from the town of Kearney on State Route 50A. It’s easily accessible from Exits 279 or 272 on I-80. At the fort, you can partake in several outdoor activities.

• Watch an interpretive video about the history of the fort and its relationship with nature
• Tour reconstructed buildings and see live re-enactments of what life was like at the fort during the heyday of the Oregon Trail
• Hike or bike the nature trail. Fort Kearny is along a major sandhill crane migration route and is a haven for birdwatchers during the migration.
• Visit the nearby Fort Kearny Recreation Area for even more outdoor activities.

For the most immersive experience, you’ll want to visit during the warmer months when everything is open. On the other hand, if you visit in the winter, having the entire park to yourself can be magical.

Hike California Hill, the First Major Ascent on the Oregon Trail

Ascending 240 feet in about a mile and a half, California Hill presented the first topographical challenge for westbound wagon trains. Near the town of North Platte, Nebraska, the Platte river forks into the North Platte and South Platte rivers. After the fork, the Oregon Trail follows the North Platte River across western Nebraska and into Wyoming.

Because the Oregon Trail started in Missouri, wagon trains went along the south shores of the Platte River east of the fork. But here’s the dilemma. The easiest crossing of the South Platte River meant that you had to go over California Hill. The alternate route passed over relatively flat terrain, but the river crossing was far more perilous. As a result, many wagon trains opted for California Hill as the safer option.

How to Access the Trailhead at the Base of California Hill

Today, California Hill has some of the best-preserved wagon ruts on the entire Oregon Trail. Unfortunately, online directions to the hill itself are inaccurate at best and misleading at worst. From the town of Brule, Nebraska, head west on US-30. About 4.5 miles (7.2 km) west of town, you’ll see a pull off on the side of the road with the historical marker for California Hill. However, if you want to hike up California Hill or simply get the best view of it, you’re still in the wrong place.

At the historical marker, you’ll see a dirt road that heads north from US-30. Follow that dirt road north for about a quarter mile or so, and park in the small cutout on the left side of the road. There are no signs or anything for parking, but it’s the only cutout along the whole stretch of road. There are small placards for both the Oregon and California Trails nailed to the fence. It’s not well noted, but the National Park Service owns the land here, which is open to the public.

Experience Some of the Most Well-Preserved Wagon Ruts on the Entire Oregon Trail

Walk through the cut in the fence and follow the tire tracks up the hill. The initial tire tracks you see are modern, but you’ll quickly pass by some old cow troughs and under some power lines. As soon as you’re under the power lines, everything you see from that point onward are the wagon ruts from the Oregon Trail. Most of these ruts are between 150 and 180 years old. While you’re welcome to walk to the top of California hill, the best wagon ruts are only about 1,000 feet (300 m) from the parking area.

See More Wagon Ruts Where Emigrants Locked Their Wheels to Descend Windlass Hill

Just 20 miles from California Hill is the first major descent on the Oregon Trail, and the steepest descent in Nebraska. Windlass Hill marked the transition from the high table lands of western Nebraska down into the North Platte River Valley.

Despite Nebraska’s reputation as being largely flat, Windlass Hill is mind-numbingly steep – about 50% steeper than the steepest hills in San Francisco. Wagons had to descend a 25° angle, or 47% grade, for about 300 feet (100 m). For comparison, the steepest grades on major U.S. highways are usually between 6 and 8%. Because Windlass Hill is so steep, most wagon trains simply locked their wheels and dragged the wagons down the hill.

While it was an effective method to control the wagons on the descent, locking the wheels left deep scars in the landscape, which are still clearly visible today. And unlike California Hill, the wagon ruts on Windlass Hill are clearly visible from the parking lot.

However, to completely immerse yourself in the history, hike the 0.6 mile (1 km) round trip paved trail to the top of the hill. You’ll quickly discover that the wagon ruts on the top of Windlass Hill are not the deepest scar in the landscape. Not even close. It’s the deep gorge at the bottom of the hill as you transition into the valley. You’ll cross a bridge over the gorge about 150 feet or so after you leave the parking lot.

Interestingly, at first glance, the gorge looks like a natural feature, but the exact opposite is true. The gorge is 100% man-made and would not exist had the Oregon Trail not run through there. It is the result of wagon trains with locked wheels passing over the same area for 50 years.

When you return to the parking lot after the hike, have a look across the valley. You’ll see several sets of wagon ruts going up and over the next hill and down into Ash Hollow.

Ash Hollow Spring: An Oasis on a Arid Prairie

Water was a precious resource along the Oregon Trail. While the Platte River is a logical source of water for the Oregon Trail route across Nebraska, heavy traffic often contaminated the water in the river. That’s why Ash Hollow Spring was such an oasis for westbound wagon trains. In fact, Ash Hollow was so precious that Native Americans fought bitterly over the spring for centuries before the white man first arrived in the early 1800’s.

Ash Hollow gave emigrants a source of pure, clean spring water. As a result, Ash Hollow was a popular “rest area” on the Oregon Trail. Settlers often camped at the spring for a few days to rest up and recharge before continuing on their journey west.

Ash Hollow is located right off of US-26, about 2.5 miles (4 km) northwest of Windlass Hill. Once you’re in the park, take the first left onto an unmarked dirt road. That dirt road will end after short distance at a picnic area. Park at the end of the road and walk across the picnic area to Ash Hollow Spring. Sit on one of the benches and enjoy the peaceful tranquility, or walk along the edge of the spring. And keep your eyes peeled. There’s plenty of wildlife to see in the area.

Finally, don’t forget to enjoy the rest of Ash Hollow State Historical Park. At the very least, drive up to the top of the bluff and take in the breathtaking view of the surrounding prairies and hills. There is a visitor’s center and museum up there, too. However, they were both closed when I was there due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

Take in the Breathtaking Vistas from Courthouse and Jail Rocks

Originally called McFarlane’s Castle, Courthouse and Jail Rocks were the first major rock landmarks for westbound settlers. Marking the point where the major trunks of the Oregon and California Trails merged, the massive presence of Courthouse Rock caused many people who passed it to liken it to a castle or court. Records of using Courthouse and Jail Rocks as a landmark date back as early as the fur traders that charted the original Oregon Trail around 1810.

From a geologic standpoint, Courthouse and Jail Rocks give you a glimpse into the ancient plateau that once towered over what is now western Nebraska. Over thousands of years, wind and water have slowly eroded the plateau. It left behind several stunning monoliths across western Nebraska that became famous landmarks along the Oregon Trail. Can you think of any others? Chimney Rock is one that immediately comes to mind.

Courthouse and Jail Rocks are located along State Route 88 about 4 miles (7 km) south of Bridgeport, Nebraska. The rocks tower over the surrounding landscape, so they are quite hard to miss. When you get close to the rocks, turn right onto a dirt road called Road 81. It’s not terribly well marked other than a small Oregon Trail placard at the entrance to the road. In good weather, the road is easily passable in a standard passenger car. Park at the end of the road, hike the short loop around Courthouse and Jail Rock, and take in the breathtaking vistas of the surrounding prairies.

Chimney Rock: The Most Famous Oregon Trail Landmark

I don’t know about you, but the one landmark I really remember from playing the Oregon Trail game as a kid is Chimney Rock. Like Courthouse and Jail Rocks, Chimney Rock is one of the most famous rock landmarks on the entire Oregon Trail. And it didn’t just provide a very recognizable landmark for the Oregon Trail. Westbound settlers on the California Trail and the Mormon Trail also used Chimney Rock as a critical landmark.

Shortly after leaving Bridgeport on US-26 going west, Chimney Rock should come into view way off in the distance. From this vantage point, you can see why it was such a world famous landmark. Even in a car at 65 mph, you can see it for at least 15 minutes before you get to the turnoff. On a wagon train, it would be visible for at least a day or two. You have to try really hard to miss it.

Thankfully, access is both easy and well-signed. Chimney Rock is located just south of the junction of US-26 and SR-92 near Bayard, Nebraska. Regardless of where you’re coming from, just follow the signs for Chimney Rock. It’s really that easy. In addition to the beautiful landscapes, there is a Visitor’s Center, museum, cemetery, and hiking trails at Chimney Rock.

There are a few things to keep in mind for your Chimney Rock photography and videos. The only roads and viewpoints to it look west, so mornings offer the best light for photographing Chimney Rock. The viewpoint at the end of the road and the hiking trails offer the best photo opps.

However, if you’re there in mid-December like I was, you can also take advantage of the low sun angles in the afternoon. From the lookout area, once the sun disappears behind the nearby bluff, it still bathes Chimney Rock in a beautiful low, warm light. You actually get a bit of an extended Golden Hour before sunset that is simply divine.

End Your Oregon Trail Journey Across Nebraska Taking in Sunset at Scottsbluff National Monument

Towering 800 feet over the North Platte River, Scott’s Bluff is a fitting place to end your Oregon Trail road trip across Nebraska. The bluff was another key landmark for settlers along the Oregon, California, and Mormon Trails, as well as the Native Americans. The wagon ruts have unfortunately eroded over time, but you can still walk about half a mile of the actual Oregon Trail within the National Monument.

If you want to drive up the bluff, make sure to arrive at least 30 to 45 minutes prior to sunset, as the road closes shortly before sunset. However, I find that your best photo and video opportunities actually come from down near the Visitor’s Center. Take advantage of the Golden Hour as the setting sun lights up the bluff in brilliant shades of yellows, oranges, and reds.

From Scottsbluff National Monument, it’s a quick drive back into town for accommodations for the night. In Scottsbluff, you’re only about 20 miles (30 km) from the Wyoming border. As a result, you’ll be in perfect position to continue your Oregon Trail journey west into Wyoming the next day.

Conclusion

Taking a road trip along the Oregon Trail route across Nebraska is one of the most interactive ways to immerse yourself in American history. You’ll literally be passing over the same terrain and seeing the same sights that the westbound settlers experienced nearly 200 years ago. While modern amenities have made the journey today far safer and more comfortable, I hope you’ll get an appreciation for the sacrifices and hardships so many emigrants encountered as they chased a better life in the west. Have you driven any of the Oregon Trail across Nebraska? Please feel free to share your experiences in the comments below.

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Top Photo: Wagon Ruts are Carved into the Side of California Hill
Brule, Nebraska – December, 2021

The post How to Experience History on the Oregon Trail in Nebraska appeared first on Matthew Gove Blog.

Update: Beginning 31 March, 2022, Indiana Dunes National Park will charge $25 per vehicle to enter the park.

A Brief History of the Indiana Dunes

In 1899, Henry Chandler Cowles, a botanist at the University of Chicago, began the first movement to preserve what’s now the Indiana Dunes. Cowles’ movement cited the unique flora at the dunes as the reason to preserve the area. The movement rapidly gained momentum. By 1916, the National Parks Service held hearings in Chicago about preserving the area as Sand Dunes National Park.

Unfortunately, local manufacturing plants had discovered that the sand at the Indiana Dunes was ideal for making glass. As a result, the 1916 hearing went nowhere. Glass manufacturing had completely consumed one of the most famous dunes by 1920. Facing backlash from the local residents, the State of Indiana stepped in and designated the area as Indiana Dunes State Park in 1926. You can still see evidence today of the manufacturing that went on at the Indiana Dunes in the early 20th century.

The federal government didn’t show any interest in the Indiana Dunes until the 1950’s. Preservation efforts ramped up again when a Port of Indiana was proposed to maximize economic development in the area. Activists began a nationwide campaign to buy the land and preserve the dunes. Their efforts were successful. In 1966, the U.S. Congress passed a bill to preserve the area as the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore. Between 1976 and 1992, Congress expanded the national lakeshore four times, bringing it to the size it is today.

In 2017, both senators and representatives from Indiana sponsored a bill to turn the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore into a National Park. While it took a couple years to finally get a vote on the bill, it passed Congress and became law on 15 Feburary, 2019. Indiana had its first National Park.

Where is Indiana Dunes National Park?

Indiana Dunes National Park covers 15 miles (24 km) of shoreline on Lake Michigan between Gary and Michigan City, Indiana. It’s just a 45 minute drive from both downtown Chicago and South Bend. If you’re coming from further away, the dunes are an easy day’s drive from Detroit, Indianapolis, much of Ohio, and even St. Louis.

The Indiana Dunes Can Migrate Up to 18 Feet Per Year…and Swallow Everything in Their Path

Indiana Dunes National Park has some of the most fascinating geology east of the Mississippi. At times, the dunes can behave like a living, breathing creature. In fact, the U.S. Geological Survey makes quite a statement about them on their website.

Dunes in the park are still actively migrating downwind. They move as layer after layer of sand is blown from the front of the dune over to the slipface. The most active dune, Mount Baldy, can move up to 18 feet in a year, swallowing up entire trees as it advances.

U.S. Geological Survey

When I first read that, I thought, “Come on. I get that dunes are always moving, but entire trees? Really?” When I got to Indiana Dunes National Park, Mt. Baldy happened to be my very first stop. When I pulled into the parking lot, this is what I saw. Insert foot into mouth.

Interestingly, I continued to notice the dunes just swallowing everything as I made my way through the park. Trees, signs, benches, parking lots. You name it, the dunes were swallowing it. The Indiana Dunes actually remind me a lot of White Sands National Park in New Mexico. Both parks have a lot of fine, sugary sand. Dunes are constantly in motion, advancing and retreating as the wind shifts throughout the year. However, unlike White Sands, the sand at Indiana Dunes National Park does not dissolve in water.

Indiana Dunes National Park Offers Outdoor Activities Year Round

While Indiana Dunes is best known for its summer recreation and relaxation, the park offers an abundance of outdoor activities year round. Don’t discount the shoulder or offseason. There is plenty to do, and the lack of crowds in any National Park makes for a completely immersive and memorable experience.

• Hiking
• Biking
• Swimming and Sunbathing
• Boating
• Cross Country Skiing, Snowshoeing, and Sledding
• View the spectacular shelf ice on Lake Michigan in the winter
• See beautiful colors in the fall
• Scenic Drives
• Birdwatching and Animal Watching
• Horseback Riding
• Camping and Picnicking
• Learn About the History of the Area

Take in Breathtaking Views of Lake Michigan

For being in a state that has a reputation of being very flat, the Indiana Dunes offer an incredibly diverse choice of absolutely stunning viewpoints and lookouts over the turquoise waters of Lake Michigan. Hike up to the top of the tallest dunes and paths for stunning panoramic vistas nearly 200 feet above the lake. Alternatively, soak in the sun and scenery from lake level as you walk along the beach or wade in the water. I could go on and on here, but I’ll let the photos speak for themselves.

See Indiana’s Rarest Flora and Fauna

Indiana Dunes is one of the most diverse regions in the United States. The park is home to some of Indiana’s rarest flora, as well as many species of fauna. If you’re looking for a specific species, make sure you know the best season for viewing them before you plan your trip. If you don’t have a specific species in mind, the Indiana Dunes boasts both spectacular fall colors and an incredible variety of wildflowers in the spring. Even when I visited in early December, it’s easy to get caught up and absorbed in nature. There was no shortage of plants and animals to look at in the winter.

Indiana Dunes Photography and Videography Tips

To get the most from your photo or video shoot, you’ll want to spend at least one full day at the park. Take advantage of the Golden Hour at both ends of the day to get some spectacular sunrise and sunset pictures. Let the low light bathe the dunes in vibrant warm colors. During the day, shift your focus to the water. Let the powerful midday sun bring out the best teals, blues, and greens in Lake Michigan. Additionally, go for a hike or a scenic drive to photograph some of the lesser seen parts of the park in the woods, marshes, grasslands, and other surrounding areas.

Furthermore, Indiana Dunes National Park offers so many different stories you can tell through your photos and videos. Whether you’re into nature, history, recreation, or anything else, there’s a story for you to tell. I encourage you to partake in any of the activities we discussed earlier to help you tell your story.

Best Locations to Shoot Photos and Videos

You can take great pictures and videos pretty much anywhere inside Indiana Dunes National Park. But here are my favorite places for a shoot.

• Mt. Baldy
• Central Avenue Beach
• Dunbar Beach
• Porter Beach
• Forest scenery along US-12

Advantages of Visiting in the Winter Offseason

There is one major reason to visit Indiana Dunes National Park during the winter offseason: the lack of crowds. When I visited in early December, there were certainly a few other people out and about, but I largely had the place to myself. You don’t have to worry about traffic or parking, even in places where parking is typically very limited. And being able to shoot photos and videos on a nearly empty beach is simply magical.

Furthermore, the low sun angle in the wintertime makes for some really beautiful light on the dunes for landscape photography. The sun remains high enough in the winter that you can still get shots of the brilliant turquoise, blue, and green waters in the middle of the day. And with sunset being so early, you’ll be done with your sunset shoot long before dinner.

Conclusion

Indiana Dunes is one of America’s newest, most diverse, and most underrated National Parks. Regardless of your interests, hobbies, and passions, the park offers outdoor activities, places to explore, and stories to tell for everyone year round. Have you been or are you planning to go? What was your favorite part? What are you most looking forward to? Let us know in the comments below.

Top Photo: The turquoise waters of Lake Michigan shimmer under the brilliant sunlight
Indiana Dunes National Park, Indiana – December, 2021

The post Indiana Dunes: One of America’s Most Underrated National Parks appeared first on Matthew Gove Blog.

Which is exactly why New York City was the perfect and unusually satisfying destination to kick off our post-COVID travel. Seemingly the antithesis of my standard adventures deep in the remote back country, New York became the piece that fit perfectly into this often warped and twisted post-COVID puzzle. Having grown up in Massachusetts as a die-hard Red Sox fan, going to New York always felt like walking into enemy territory. Only this time it didn’t. People seemed very welcoming, much like what I experienced when I would travel to Mexico prior to the COVID-19 pandemic. Twisted and warped, indeed. At least we still got the quintessential New York experience of sitting in traffic and paying the ridiculous tolls to cross the George Washington Bridge.

Our destination in New York was the Cosmic Nature: Infinity exhibit at the New York Botanical Garden in The Bronx. After nearly two years of living through the pandemic, Infinity turned out to be an impeccable theme for our first post-COVID travel adventure.

Travel in a Post-COVID World

I’ll be honest with you. I had no idea what to expect in my first “real” post-COVID adventure. It’s been no secret how unpleasant so many of my previous encounters with the public throughout the pandemic. From the death threats I got in Arizona to derogatory slurs being hurled at me in Texas to the intimidating stares in just about every other state, I was pretty skeptical heading into New York City. The pandemic had seemed to bring out the absolute worst in everybody.

Despite their reputation, New Yorkers could not have been more friendly, welcoming, and respectful. Lines were orderly. Nobody was making a fuss over COVID-19 restrictions. What an incredible contrast from what I had to deal with in Arizona throughout the pandemic! Did it make any sense to me? No. Was I happy and relieved to see it? Without a doubt.

How has the COVID-19 Pandemic Changed Travel?

It has and it hasn’t. While many people expect a 9/11-style division between pre-COVID and post-COVID travel, I didn’t see it as quite that harsh. At least not right now. Flying out of Logan Airport in Boston less than 6 months after the 9/11 attacks was nothing like pre-9/11 travel. The endless lines, the extremely tight security, and the bomb-sniffing dogs didn’t feel real. Don’t forget that two out of the four hijacked planes in the 9/11 attacks originated in Boston, so we were grateful for the extra security at the time. But over time, we learned to accept that there was no going back to a pre-9/11 world.

While there will definitely be a pre and post-COVID distinction, I found a lot of normalcy visiting the Botanical Gardens in New York. Walking around looking at the exhibit felt eerily like pre-COVID times. You still have to wear a mask going into buildings, and there are signs everywhere to remind you that the pandemic is not yet over. But all the social distancing placards and blocked off areas were all gone. Those are so 2020, I guess.

New York City’s COVID-19 Vaccine Mandate

Nearly all of the post-COVID changes to your travel will be entering facilities. New York City requires you to show proof of COVID-19 vaccination to enter just about every public facility. If you’re not vaccinated, you will be denied entry, as negative tests are not accepted. Acceptable proof of vaccination includes:

• The original physical copy of your vaccination card
• An electronic copy or photograph of your vaccination card
• A photocopy of your vaccination record

Because they featured both indoor and outdoor exhibits, the Botanical Gardens were the perfect place to get a glimpse into what post-COVID travel may look like. Staff members verified our vaccine cards at the main entrance, and once we were inside, we did not need to show them again. My aunt and I both got our shots in the US, while my uncle was vaccinated in Canada. We had no issues getting in.

Both staff and security at the entrance to each building reminded us to wear masks inside and closely monitored foot traffic to ensure that the building did not exceed capacity. Other than that, though, it felt oddly normal.

Infinity: The Crossroads of Art and Physics

The Cosmic Nature: Infinity exhibit at the Botanical Garden was easily one of the most fascinating art exhibits I’ve ever seen. Artist Yayoi Kusama presented a captivating crossroads between land and water, art and physics, and indoors and out to showcase her lifelong fascination with the natural world. Unfortunately, we were there on one of the last weekends the exhibit was open. If you ever get a chance to see Kusama’s work elsewhere, I highly recommend it. It’s well worth the journey.

The grounds of the New York Botanical Gardens are beautiful to begin with. However, it doesn’t take long before you see Kusama’s touch. What originally feels like walking onto the grounds of The Masters quickly transports you Japan. The combination of all the flowers in bloom and the near-peak fall colors made it truly magical.

Our first stop was at a large tent where the public could make their own infinity art. Each person was given a flower and had to place it somewhere in the tent that was not on the fan, not on the fire extinguisher, and not in your pocket. When you walk into the tent, it is simply sensory overload for your eyes.

The First Taste of Infinity in Our Post-COVID Travel

Next up was our first taste of infinity at the Infinite Pumpkins room. It takes a second going from the bright, sunny outdoors to a pitch dark room, but I think that was done intentionally. Once your eyes adjust, you find yourself in a small room with a cube that’s roughly 4 feet in all dimensions.

A light underneath the cube slowly turns on, illuminating paper lantern pumpkins covering the bottom of the cube. As the light reaches full brightness, you look into the cube, and like magic, the rows of pumpkins look like they go on forever, into infinity. You start walking around the cube, and find that every side you look into, you’re staring into infinity. Look down, and you’re staring into a bottomless pit full of pumpkins. Since I have a degree in physics, my interest was particularly piqued.

So how does she do it? If you’re familiar with Kusama’s work, you know that reflection is a common theme in her art. The sides of the Infinity Pumpkins cube were all two-way mirrors, which gives you a truly unique sense of infinity regardless of the angle you’re viewing it. Photography was banned in the room, so I unfortunately can’t show you any pictures. However, you can find pictures of similar exhibits with a quick Google search.

Your Narcissism For Sale at the Narcissus Garden

In Greek Mythology, Narcissus is the god who was well-known for his beauty. He rejected all romantic advances, and ultimately fell in love with his own reflection in a pool of water. He became so consumed by his obsession with himself he stared at his reflection for the rest of his life, drawing the ire and vengeance of the other gods. If you’ve ever wondered where the term “narcissism” comes from, that’s where.

As part of a protest against elitism in the 1960’s, Kusama stood among 1,500 mirrored orbs with a sign that read “Your Narcissism For Sale”. She sold the orbs for $2 each. Later in her career, she built the Narcissus Garden, letting the orbs float around a large pond surrounded by plants and nature. In addition to seeing your own reflection, the orbs reflect the trees, sky, and water, allowing you to be one with the landscape.

Discovering Teleportation Inside the Conservatory

The Enid Haupt Conservatory is one of the most striking buildings at the New York Botanical Gardens. Housing exotic plants from around the world, the majestic Palm Dome ties the building together. And if there’s one thing walking amongst so many exotic tropical plants gives you, it’s some serious wanderlust.

Due to COVID-19 restrictions, the loop through the conservatory was only one-way. You start in the tropical rainforest, where you’re instantly transported to the lush jungles of South America, Africa, Asia, and the Caribbean. You’ll see everything from common houseplants to the most exotic and rare flora. And if you listen closely, you can almost hear the exotic birds, monkeys, and jaguars that call the rainforest home.

Towards the end of the rainforest exhibit, the path starts to descend, like you’re sinking into the ground. The exhibit surrounds you with swampy aquatic plants. Then, all of a sudden you reach a flight of stairs. Go down the stairs into an underground metal tunnel that feels like it’s right out of Star Trek. Walk for a couple of minutes. You’ll go up a short flight of stairs and be dropped right into the middle of the desert. I turned to my aunt and said, “if we ever figure out teleportation, I’m pretty sure that’s what it’s gonna feel like.”

The desert exhibit is just as exotic. While it features many staples of the American Southwest, it will also transport you to more deserts such as the Kalahari, the Australian Outback, and Arabia. Seeing the native plants from the Kalahari mixed in with American staples such as the Saguaro and the Prickly Pear did catch me off guard a little. But it was really cool to see them together. You can’t do that in Arizona.

Chance Encounters are One Reason Why I Love to Travel

When the COVID-19 pandemic shut down travel in 2020, there was one thing I really missed from my adventures. Prior to the pandemic, I really enjoyed the short, chance encounters with interesting people when I would go down to Mexico. You can learn a lot about yourself and other cultures if you stop, listen to what they have to say, and learn from it. As I traveled more and more, I found myself having more of these interactions in unexpected places.

Not surprisingly, I had a really cool chance encounter in New York while waiting in line to see the Dancing Pumpkin exhibit. It’s hard to describe the Dancing Pumpkin other than it looks like a dancing polka-dotted octopus, so here’s a picture of it. You can get your picture taken in front of it and walk around underneath it.

A Blast From the Film-Era Past

As we got towards the front of the line, there was a group of three young women in front of us. I had my DSLR camera around my neck, so one of them turned to me and asked if I could take their picture for them. They told me the secrets to using their camera, and then went to pose for their picture in front of the Dancing Pumpkin.

As they walked over, I couldn’t help but notice their camera didn’t have a screen on the back of it. A closer glance at the back and I saw a label that said “Insert Film Here”. I hadn’t used a film camera in at least 20 years, so I thought this was pretty cool. But it gets better. After they got into position, I gave them the countdown. 3-2-1, and then pushed the button. You could hear the gears of the camera pulling the film through as it captured the image. Then I felt pressure pushing up on the underside of the brim of my hat.

I pulled the camera away from my face and looked down to see the picture coming out of the top. It was a Polaroid camera. I have a very high level of respect for people that still use film cameras, so I made sure to tell them. We had a good laugh over it as I gave the camera back to them. This may be the COVID isolation talking, but that brief interaction really made my day.

The Grand Finale at the Infinity Room

The Infinity Room is what people come to the Kusama exhibits for. Using nothing more than light and mirrors, the Infinity Room immerses you in an environment that fosters an out of body experience while at the same time heightening and arousing your senses. Remember the Infinite Pumpkins exhibit we visited earlier? The Infinity Room is the same thing, except instead of putting paper pumpkins inside the cube, you put yourself. And the other big difference? You can take pictures inside the Infinity Room. You only get 45 seconds inside, so be ready with your camera to make the most of it.

If you’re wondering where the worlds of art and physics collide, it’s inside the Infinity Room. When you step in, you’re instantly hit with visual overload. Prisms all over the wall and ceiling light up the mirrored walls with what feels like infinite colors. A slight echo subconsciously enhances your hearing, too. Make sure to observe the room from different angles. The optics will give you a sense for the many, or dare I say infinite, different aspects of infinity. Then just like that, the door opens and your time is up.

Final Thoughts on Post-COVID Travel

It felt so good to finally be able to get out and go adventuring. I really believe that post-COVID travel will feel much more “normal” than many people think. I got a bit of that feeling on a day trip to Boston a couple months ago, and this trip to New York certainly reinforced it.

However, just like after 9/11, we must remember that new practices, policies, and protocols are in place to keep you safe. Those 5-hour waits to get through security at Logan Airport in early 2002 quietly faded away as we embraced the new post-9/11 normal. And the COVID-19 restriction will do the same. Since the onset of the pandemic, I felt safer in New York City than I did in Phoenix, Boston, and everywhere else I’ve been in between. This is just the beginning of our next chapter, and as the world fully reopens, I couldn’t be more excited for what future adventures hold in 2022 and beyond.

Stay Up-to-Date with Our Adventures

To follow along and stay up-to-date with our post-COVID travel adventures, please sign up for the Matt Gove Photo newsletter. In addition, you’ll also get exclusive deals to our store that we don’t offer anywhere else, as well as free travel guides and visual storytelling (photography/video) tutorials. It’s free, and always will be. Where will your first post-COVID adventure take you?

Want to See More Photos of Cosmic Nature: Infinity?

Can’t get enough of infinity here? Head over to the Matt Gove Photo website. You’ll find the complete photo album from the Cosmic Nature: Infinity exhibit there.

Top Photo: Kusama’s Tulip Sculptures Take Over a Pond at the Cosmic Nature: Infinity Exhibit
New York, New York – October, 2021

The post Travel Journal: Post-COVID Adventures Kick Off in New York City appeared first on Matthew Gove Blog.

Since it’s easiest to stay isolated on road trips, experts agree they will be the first facet of travel to re-emerge from the pandemic lockdowns. While it was anything but recreational, I recently drove across the United States at the height of the COVID-19 pandemic. I want to share my lessons learned and observations made so you can plan your next road trip once COVID-19 finally becomes a thing of the past.

1. The Country is Bitterly Divided

I’ve taken road trips to all corners of the United States over the past decade. Not once have I ever experienced the level of hate, bitterness, and animosity directed towards me as I did on this trip.

There is no better example of the bitterness right now than my state, Arizona. Its toxic political culture coupled with the corrosiveness of a very close election has turned the state into a cesspool of hostility and resentment. Over the past year, Arizona has been in the news far too many times for all the wrong reasons.

For me, it all started when mask mandates started to go into effect in the Spring of 2020. Regardless of whether or not you chose to wear a mask, you were constantly being heckled, harassed, and berated in public. While it’s easy to laugh off childish name calling, I draw the line at the threat of physical violence.

Once I started getting death threats at the supermarket over masks, it had escalated beyond an acceptable level. By the time it got to the point where I couldn’t do mundane tasks such as getting the mail and taking out the trash without having to constantly face death threats or the risk of being attacked, it had already forced my hand. And yes, I had people try to attack me on more than one occasion. This had spiraled well beyond just masks and the election.

Bottom line is this. I expect that I was so frequently targeted because I was alone all the time. The vast majority of people you’ll run into remain warm, friendly, and welcoming. However, expect that no matter where you go, someone will be judging you…and not in a good way.

2. But We Can Still All Agree on One Thing…We’re Sick of Covid

These days, it seems like we can’t get any more divided. With record levels of animosity, we can’t agree on anything. Maybe with the exception of agreeing to disagree.

Interestingly, I noticed one common thread in every location I passed through on this trip. And it goes deeper than “the sky is blue” or “water is wet”. From the reddest of conservative areas to the bluest of liberal areas, and everywhere in between, we are all sick and tired of dealing with COVID-19. I don’t know about you, but I’m sure yearning to get my old life back.

3. Rules Vary Wildly From State to State

One of the rules I stuck to on this trip was to treat each state like it was its own country. Why you ask? Because the rules and restrictions vary so much from state to state. What’s completely acceptable in one state could land you a hefty fine in the next. Even more frustrating, in some states, the rules can be completely different going from county to county or town to town.

Look at some of the southwestern states as an example. States like Arizona and Texas have issued few restrictions with little to no penalty for violating them. However, cross into New Mexico and it’s a much different story.

As soon as you cross the state line, they make it very clear that masks are required statewide, capacity limits are in effect in many sectors, and some businesses remain closed altogether. The state will fine you if they catch you violating those restrictions.

New Mexico is also one of the few places that actually enforces its COVID-19 restrictions, which is a perfect segue into our next observation.

4. COVID-19 Restrictions are Rarely, if ever, Enforced

I really surprised me just how few places actually enforce their COVID-19 restrictions. When I passed through Amarillo, Texas, you’d never know we were in the middle of a pandemic. Bars, restaurants, theatres, malls, and museums were all packed. I did not see a single mask or anyone even pretending to stay socially distanced. And this was on a Wednesday afternoon, back when Texas still had a statewide mask mandate and capacity restrictions in place.

Sadly, I found this to be the rule, rather than the exception. While Amarillo was by far the most flagrant example of this utter disregard on the trip, I saw it in just about every state I passed through. We’re all fed up with COVID-19. I get the pandemic fatigue. I want to go back to normal just as badly as you do. Unfortunately, the longer we fight the restrictions, the longer it will take for us to reach normality.

Thankfully, though, the majority of people still comply with COVID-19 restrictions despite the fact that they’re largely unenforced. However, there remains enough resistance to make it both concerning, and a times, dangerous.

5. States Fall into One of Two Categories

And those categories are:

1. They take COVID-19 seriously
2. They openly mock it and brag about flouting their own guidelines and restrictions

Sometimes, the most amazing things happen when you least expect them. That was certainly the case as I crossed the St. Francis River.

For those of you who are not familiar with the area, the St. Francis River separates Paragould, Arkansas from Cardwell, Missouri. Both towns are in a rural, deeply conservative area.

At the time of my trip, Arkansas had a statewide mask mandate. Missouri did not. As I drove down Main Street in both Paragould and Cardwell, the difference could not have been more stark. Everyone on the Arkansas side of the river was masked. Not a single person on the Missouri side was. Even When I came upon a fender bender leaving Cardwell, even the public safety officers at the scene had opted against putting masks on.

6. You Don’t See Any Out-of-State License Plates

I love playing the license plate game on long road trips. When I took my three-country road trip in 2019, I saw license plates from all 50 US States (plus Washington, DC), 10 Canadian Provinces, and 8 Mexican States. Contrast that to when I took my first COVID-19 road trip to Oregon in July, 2020. I only saw license plates from 6 states: Arizona, California, Nevada, Idaho, Oregon, and Washington.

On this trip, it didn’t take long to notice that the freeways were basically void of passenger cars. The pandemic had kept everyone at home, which led to another fascinating observation. In normal times, when you approach a state line, you start seeing license plates from the state you’re about to cross into. There was none of that driving across the country at the height of the COVID-19 pandemic. People were that reluctant to travel out-of-state.

Not surprisingly, the results of the license plate game were putrid compared to 2019. I passed through 16 states to get across the country. Besides those 16 states, I only saw license plates from two other states.

• An SUV with Florida plates near Albuquerque, New Mexico
• A small hatchback with Alabama plates in eastern Oklahoma

7. With the Right Safety Protocols, You Can Safely Enjoy a Cross-Country Road Trip in the Age of Covid

While I can’t under any good conscience recommend it right now (unless you’re fully vaccinated), it is possible to safely drive across the country. However, COVID-19 safety does come at the expense of comfort, and to some degree, fun.

Yes, I cut myself off from hotels, public restrooms, and all other public buildings. I spent nearly 48 straight hours in the truck, peeing in Gatorade bottles, and camping in the middle of an ice storm on the side of a mountain in Kentucky on just one leg of the trip. But I argue that it was fun in its own way. Regardless of the circumstances, any trip is only as fun and adventurous as you allow it to be.

Conclusion

Driving across the country unvaccinated at the peak of the COVID-19 pandemic was a memorable experience I won’t forget any time soon. It’s certainly not for the faint of heart, though. However, with the proper planning and safety protocols in place you can make it to your destination safely. Make sure you know exactly what you’re getting yourself into, and have a plan in case anything goes wrong.

That wraps up the series on my cross-country COVID-19 road trip. I hope you’ve enjoyed reading it as much as I’ve enjoyed reliving it. If you have any questions or comments, please leave them in the comments section below or email me directly. We’ll be back to our normal content next week, traveling the world through data, maps, and photography. Have a great weekend, and see you next week.

Top Image: Freeway Junction Sign on My Cross-Country COVID-19 Road Trip
Morgantown, West Virginia – Feburary, 2021

The post 7 Powerful Lessons From a Cross-Country COVID-19 Road Trip appeared first on Matthew Gove Blog.

• Hotels
• Public Restaurants
• Restaurants
• Stores

During my last few days in Norman, the strangest feeling set in. I have driven this route a gazillion and a half times over the past decade. Yet I felt like I was just standing at the edge of the map about to drive off into the unknown. It’s just one of those weird things pandemic life does to you.

Arkansas: Did Someone Say Air Conditioning?

As I crossed the border from Oklahoma into Arkansas, a weird sense of relief washed over me. With a couple brief exceptions, I will be in states with mask mandates for the rest of the trip. In addition, I could finally put over 2,000 kilometers (1,200 mi) of Interstate 40 behind me. It felt so good to be out on the back roads and away from the semi trucks on the Interstate.

Even Mother Nature decided to throw us a bone. It felt quite deserving after the rather icy greeting she offered in New Mexico, which sent wind chills plunging to -35°F (-37°C). On the contrary, she provided blue skies and warm sunshine for the drive across northeastern Arkansas on US-67.

It didn’t take long before I actually started to feel hot. What a welcome change this was from those icy polar winds ripping down the Oklahoma prairie. Afternoon temperatures climbed to nearly 80°F (27°C). It instantly transported me back to all of those wonderful road trip memories of summers past. It was the last thing I expected on this trip, but I had to turn on the air conditioning to cool down. I was still very much dressed for winter.

Better enjoy it while it lasts, as an old foe has another rude surprise waiting in the wings.

A Meteorological Miscalculation at a Kentucky Campground

I crossed the state line from Tennessee into Kentucky right at sunset. It was still another 7 or so hour drive to reach my overnight stopover at a campground in eastern Kentucky. The drive was largely uneventful. I ran into a few light rain showers passing through Lexington. It was otherwise dry, with temperatures hovering around 60°F (16°C).

Even Without the Weather Factor, This was not a Normal Camping Trip

For those of you who are unfamiliar with some of my photography adventures, I have camped out in the truck plenty of times before. This was far from my first rodeo. However, there were a few distinct differences.

• I normally sleep in the truck bed because you can fit an air mattress or camping pad and a sleeping bag back there very comfortably. There was so much stuff in the back this trip that I was forced to sleep in the cab.
• I’m used camping in the dry, arid climates out west in the summertime. That doesn’t exactly describe eastern Kentucky in February.

Once again, I managed to fall victim to a musing misfortune of a meteorological miscalculation. Sigh.

The Weather Seemed Nice Enough

After a careful analysis of the weather models, I had concluded that the Polar Vortex had cleared out of the area. Nighttime temperatures would be plenty warm for comfortable camping, dipping only into the 50s F (10s C). In fact, in the summertime, I had camped in much colder temperatures in some of the higher elevations out west. I made reservations at the campground prior to leaving Oklahoma.

One exit west of the campground, I pulled off the freeway for fuel shortly before 1 AM. I couldn’t believe how perfect the weather was for camping. The low-level clouds were starting to break up, and you could feel the humidity dropping. The temperature sat at 58°F (14°C). You didn’t even have to put a jacket on to venture outside and pump the gas. With my weather analysis seemingly confirmed, I was really looking forward to stretching my legs and having a cowboy shower and a change of clothes at the campsite.

The Fatal Flaw in a Seemingly Sound Strategy

The second I exited the freeway to drive the couple of miles to the campground, I realized I had made a critical error in my weather analysis. While I nailed my forecast, I had failed to realize or account for the fact that this campground was about 3,000 feet straight up the side of a mountain. The Polar Vortex had cleared out of the surface layer, but it still raged up above.

Once Again, the Polar Vortex Bites Hard

I immediately found myself on a very narrow and winding road through a heavily wooded forest. Moisture hung in the air, dripping off trees and hitting my windshield like raindrops. Before even reaching a hill, the temperature had dropped to 45°F (7°C).

Things truly turned bizarre once I started up the mountain. Keep in mind, it’s after one o’clock in the morning, and I had never been here before. After starting the ascent, the road became even more narrow, winding, and heavily wooded. It didn’t take long to get back in the snowpack, either. You kept your fingers crossed that you wouldn’t meet another car coming the other direction. Just passing each other would be sketchy. And that’s before taking into account the steep drop-offs on my side of the road or the high risk of black ice further up the mountain.

About a third of the way up the mountain, weird plumes of fog began to slowly waft across the road. By now, the temperature had dropped to 34°F (1°C). All of a sudden, I rounded a very sharp corner and had to put my foot to the floor slamming on the brakes.

Back in the Twilight Zone

At this point, I felt like I was back in the twilight zone. I couldn’t believe my eyes. There were trees and limbs down all over the road. They had obviously come down very recently. Thankfully, after the initial shock wore off, the road was still passable. There was ample room to tiptoe your way through the hazard. You couldn’t help but keep thinking in the back of your mind, “gee, I hope there aren’t any more trees that come down in the middle of the night and, you know, trap me in here.” I had a saw with me, but it gave me little comfort thinking about the potential marathon cutting through that many trees.

After what felt like an eternity (it was at most 15 minutes), I reached the campsite. My campsite of choice was accessible from the pavement, but out of the way enough that I wouldn’t be disturbed should anyone drive through in the middle of the night. I pulled off the pavement and onto the snowpack to park for the night. Mother Nature threw her last curveball.

A Hidden River Under the Snow

Almost instantly, the truck fell through the snowpack’s top crust and buried itself in about 6 inches of slush and soft mud. Even with four wheel drive, it struggled mightily to move just a few feet. I inched it forward as far as I could and parked it. Hopefully, with temperatures now down to 29°F (-2°C), my tracks would freeze up enough to make getting out a little easier. Yes, it was a bit of a gamble, but it was one I was more than willing to take. Then it began to lightly rain. So much for stretching my legs and having a cowboy shower. Hard to believe that less than 12 hours ago, it was 80 degrees and I had the air conditioning on.

Unfortunately, I couldn’t go to sleep just yet. I still had to move some gear from the back seat to the truck bed so I could recline the seat. To add insult to injury, my heavy boots were in the truck bed, leaving me with just lightweight sneakers to take on the mud pit. I gingerly stepped out onto the crust of the snowpack, hoping that my feet wouldn’t go through it like my tires had.

Much to my amazement, the snowpack held, but I know that one misstep and I’d be ankle deep in mud. The snowpack still needed to be tested carrying the extra weight of the gear I had to move. I came very close to breaking through a few times stepping over the area where the tires had already gone through, but I got the gear moved, and could finally recline the seat and doze off.

While I Never Felt in any Sort of Danger, the Scenery was Straight Out of the Beginning of Every Horror Movie

I drifted in and out of sleep until I fully awoke just after 3 AM to pale moonlight shining through the window. I rolled over and looked out. The rain had stopped, and skies had begun to clear. A bright full moon shone through the silhouetted bare trees swaying back and forth in the icy wind. There was not a sound to be heard, just the hum of the wind blowing through the trees. A heavy chill had settled into the truck, as the wintry mountain air had slowly sucked the heat out of the cab. I started the truck and turned the heater on.

As I waited for the cab to warm back up, I watched the trees sway back and forth in the pale moonlight. Even though the campground was well-known and as safe as safe could be, it was completely and utterly deserted. I was the only one there. It was hard to shake that one nagging thought that kept prodding the back of your mind: I’m pretty sure this is how all horror movies start.

After about 10 or 15 minutes, the truck had warmed back up. I shut off the engine and tried to go back to sleep. However, you can’t unthink the thoughts about horror movies. You try to block them out as best you can, but the only sleep you can drift off into is a restless one. I managed to doze until about 4:15 AM. At that point I knew that the odds of getting back to sleep were pretty slim.

Backtracking Out of the Campground

Now comes the hard part: getting out. As I got out to move everything back into driving mode, I was relieved to see that the freezing temperatures had worked their magic and hardened up the snowpack. While it make moving the gear around much easier, backing the truck out of the campsite was a much different story.

Even with four-wheel drive, you need to be very gentle on the throttle to get a vehicle moving and keep it in control on snow and ice. The last thing you want to do is spin the tires and wind up in the ditch. I put the truck in reverse and very slowly started to depress the accelerator. The truck didn’t budge. The wheels had partially frozen in place.

There’s a Right Way and Wrong Way to Free Yourself

Thankfully, all you need is a little extra gas to break the wheels free. However, there is a right way and wrong way to do it. Give it too much throttle and the truck will go shooting across the road and into the ditch on the other side. Don’t give it enough and it won’t break free.

The secret to pulling this off successfully is to use low four wheel drive. Low four wheel drive sends extra power and torque to the wheels, at the cost of speed. You can’t drive much faster than about 20 mph. This is exactly what we want to prevent us from flying across the road when the wheels break free.

In low four-wheel drive, the wheels broke free right away and the truck walked right back up onto the road. It was a bit tricky finding the pavement under all the snow and ice, but I managed to do so without incident. It was slow-going navigating down the steep, narrow, winding mountain roads and back around all of the downed trees, black ice, and fog. I was back on the freeway before I knew it.

Making a Fool of Myself in New Jersey After 40 Plus Straight Hours in the Car

I originally planned to spend the night at our family farmhouse in New Jersey instead of the campground. The house has no electricity or running water, so you’d still very much be camping. It has a spectacular fire place and plenty of room to spread out and stretch out.

However, a monster nor’easter struck the northeast and mid-Atlantic shortly before my trip. It buried New Jersey and eastern Pennsylvania under nearly 4 feet of snow. With the property completely snowed-in, I had to make other arrangements.

Even though I couldn’t spend the night there, it was the perfect place to stop and have lunch. More importantly, it was a safe place to stretch my legs after 40 some odd straight hours in the car. With the exception of quick stops to get gas, I hadn’t gotten out of the truck since I left Norman, Oklahoma the previous day.

As Graceful as a Baby Giraffe

If you’ve ever seen a newborn giraffe try to get up and walk around, that was me on the street in front of the farmhouse. My legs had all but turned to rubber. But it felt so good to be out of the truck and moving around.

I had been in the truck for about the same amount of time it would have taken to fly from Los Angeles to Bangkok and back. Interestingly, it felt both like I had been driving non-stop for days and like I had only been driving for about 5 minutes since I left Norman. That’s far from the only instance that Covid has warped the sense of time.

Unfortunately, it also warped my sense of time for how long I had stopped. By the time it felt like I had finally stopped to decompress, I looked at the clock. Much to my dismay, over 2 hours had passed since I arrived at the farmhouse. It was after 3:30 PM. There was no way I would make it through New York City before rush hour.

The Final Leg

I begrudgingly got back in the truck to drive the last segment from New Jersey to Massachusetts. When we would take family trips to see relatives in New Jersey when I was a kid, it felt like you were driving half way around the world. At the end of this pandemic odyssey, the timing felt more like driving down the street to go to the grocery store.

Thankfully, the COVID-19 pandemic still kept a significant segment of the New York workforce remote. Traffic on the New York Thruway flowed smoothly, looking much more like mid-day than rush hour. I hit a few brief slowdowns on the Merritt Parkway once I got into Connecticut. Other than that, you could travel at the speed limit on both the Merritt and on Interstate 95.

One Last Hurdle

Massachusetts is one of the states that is pretty strict about people coming in from out of state. Everyone coming from a high-risk state must fill out a travel affidavit stating that you have not been knowingly exposed to COVID-19 or have any symptoms. At the time I arrived, the only state that was not considered high risk was Hawaii. You must then quarantine for 10 days upon arrival.

Interestingly, they ask that you submit the travel form before you arrive in Massachusetts. There is no penalty if you don’t, though. I meant to fill it out during my stop in New Jersey, but got distracted laughing at myself over the baby giraffe incident. However, I had been treating state lines like crossing international borders. It dawned on me as I crossed into Rhode Island that I hadn’t yet filled out the travel form. I filled it out a rest area just inside the Rhode Island state line before continuing on to my final destination in Massachusetts.

Mandatory Quarantine

I was lucky enough to have a friend who was in Florida for the winter. They offered their summer house to do my quarantine. It was a relief not worrying about exposing my mom and dad to anything I picked up on the road. The quarantine went smoothly. I got caught up on a lot of work. However, I did find myself playing peek-a-boo with a pigeon on more than one occasion.

Up Next

Go behind the scenes next week and look at the data, modeling, and strategy sessions that kept me safe on this unique and memorable journey. All that, and much more right here next Friday at 9 AM Pacific Time. See you then.

Top Image: A Beautiful Morning Drive in the Appalachians
Morgantown, West Virginia – 25 February, 2021

The post Pioneering Peril, Part 2: Pandemic Polar Vortex Camping in Kentucky appeared first on Matthew Gove Blog.

As I began planning my COVID-19 cross-country road trip last fall, my goal was to avoid the worst of winter across the midwest and northeast. Little did I know that the North Pole would come down and so kindly greet me as I crossed Tornado Alley. The Polar Vortex shattered all kinds of records and left several states – most notably Texas – under a significant emergency.

What is the Polar Vortex?

The Polar Vortex is a large area of very cold air that circulates around both the North and South Poles in the wintertime. Under normal conditions, the stability of the atmosphere keeps the Polar Vortex locked around the poles.

However, certain triggers high above the Earth can cause the Polar Vortex to rapidly destabilize and plunge southward (northward in the Southern Hemisphere) into the mid-latitudes. One particularly powerful trigger occurred in late January, 2021.

What Triggers the Polar Vortex to Destabilize?

To understand how the Polar Vortex behaves, we must travel about 20 to 50 km above the earth’s surface, well above where any weather happens or any airplanes fly. This part of the atmosphere is known as the stratosphere, and contains the far outer ranges of where weather balloons can travel.

Temperatures in the stratosphere are frigid. In the past 40 years, meteorologists have measured temperatures as low as -96°C (-141°F) in the stratosphere. Those cold temperatures are what holds the Polar Vortex in place above the poles.

Armed with that knowledge, you can probably deduce what causes the Polar Vortex to destabilize: a sudden and significant warming of the stratosphere. That’s exactly what happened in January, 2021. In less than 24 hours, the stratosphere warmed by 45°C, or 81°F. It was one of the most extreme stratospheric temperature swings ever recorded.

The January, 2021 destabilization was so powerful that it caused the Polar Vortex to completely fracture in half. One half plunged into the central and eastern parts of the United States and Canada. The other half dove south into Siberia. Temperatures in Yakutsk, Russia dropped to a bone-chattering -58°C (-73°F).

Have We Seen a Polar Vortex Like This Before?

You don’t have to go back very far to find a similar meteorological setup. In January, 2015, meteorologists observed a similar warming of the stratosphere above the North Pole. Shortly thereafter, the Polar Vortex split, sending parts of the US, Canada, and Russia into one of their coldest and snowiest winters ever.

One particularly interesting phenomenon is how the strong Polar Vortex makes the east coast of both the US and Canada so vulnerable to major snowstorms. Indeed, two blizzards crippled New England on 27 January and 15 February, 2015. That was only the beginning of a true snowmageddon winter.

Between the two storms, many locations in southeast New England received between 6 and 8 feet of snow. Boston was one of many cities that ran out of places to dump their plowed snow. Even once summer arrived, you’d still see some snow piles driving around. There was so much snow piled so high it took that long to melt. Not surprisingly, we all got a pretty bad case of cabin fever that winter.

Thankfully, 2021 did not suffer the same fate.

A Beautiful Day Across Central New Mexico

If you hadn’t looked at the weather before hand, you would have had no idea what lay ahead with the Polar Vortex. Temperatures were unseasonably warm as I made my way across the high deserts of eastern Arizona and western New Mexico.

As I descended into Albuquerque, the mercury topped 70°F (21°C). Even with strong winds, it made for very pleasant driving. However, once I climbed back out of the valley, things really began to change. Thick mid-level clouds replaced the warm sun and blue skies. You definitely had that feeling of “something crazy is about to happen” in the air.

Santa Rosa, New Mexico: Running Head-On into a Freight Train of Cold Air

If you’ve ever driven Interstate 40 across New Mexico, you know that it’s largely a vast emptiness of open desert. Aside from the occasional blink-and-you-miss-it town, you’re at the mercy of Mother Nature.

As I got further east of Albuquerque, that layer of mid-level clouds got progressively thicker, darker, and lower. Despite the ominous outlook, temperatures remained quite pleasant, hovering around 65°F (18°C). As I approached the town of Santa Rosa, New Mexico, things took a dramatic turn.

When I lived in Oklahoma as a meteorology student, I saw my fair share of wild weather. Whether it was EF-5 tornadoes, ferocious wildfires, thundersleet, a quakenado, or massive hail, it was nothing like what I saw punching through the Polar Vortex. Just when I thought I had seen it all, Mother Nature threw me something new. Wrap your head around this temperature drop.

For a different perspective, here is that same data on a time-series graph. Click on the graph to enlarge it.

And to think, this was just the tip of the iceberg.

Entering the Freezing Fog Twilight Zone in Texas

Between storm chasing, road trips, and photography adventures, I’ve driven across the Texas panhandle more times than I can remember. My favorite part of the drive is looking out at the open prairie. You can see forever, and really gives you a sense of freedom being on the open road.

What a contrast this trip turned out to be! As a result of the Polar Vortex invasion, we were treated to one of the rarest, and surprisingly, most dangerous weather phenomena in Texas: freezing fog.

What is Freezing Fog?

Freezing fog is no different than regular fog, with one distinct difference. Water droplets in freezing fog are supercooled, meaning that they are below freezing, but remain in liquid form.

Why do they remain as a liquid if they’re below freezing? Water molecules freeze much more efficiently when they are in contact with other particles versus being pure water. These particles can include sand, dust, minerals in tap water, and objects such as trees and vehicles.

Fog forms when water vapor condenses out of the air. Those fog droplets are pure water, and therefore freeze less efficiently.

Why is Freezing Fog so Dangerous?

Whenever water remains in a supercooled state, it poses an enormous risk to both vehicles and airplanes. Remember that we just reviewed how water freezes much more efficiently when in contact with other particles than when it is pure water?

When a supercooled water droplet comes into contact with something other than pure water, it instantly freezes. While freezing fog coming into contact with trees and grasses is largely harmless, it’s a much different story when it freezes on roads, overpasses, and your vehicle. Black ice is dangerous enough to begin with. It’s even more so in places like Texas that are not used to seeing it.

How Does Freezing Fog Form in a Hot, Arid Climate Like West Texas?

Warm air can hold much more moisture than cold air. Most of that moisture is in the air as water vapor. We measure it with either the dewpoint or the relative humidity.

When air cannot hold any more moisture, it reaches saturation. Any more moisture that gets added after that condenses out either as clouds or precipitation. There are two ways to reach saturation.

• Add moisture to the environment. You see this when the bathroom fogs up as you take a shower.
• Lower the temperature of the environment. There is no better example of this than when you see your breath on a cold day. Your warm breath has more moisture than the ambient cold air can hold, so it condenses out as a fog.

The powerful cold front I had punched through in eastern New Mexico had swept across the Texas Panhandle only a few hours earlier. Even in an arid environment like West Texas, the temperature dropped so extremely and rapidly that the air could not hold what little moisture it had. As a result, the excess moisture condensed into a freezing fog.

It was almost as if you could see Mother Nature’s breath.

Enter the Polar Vortex Twilight Zone

Being used to crossing the Texas panhandle in the summertime made this experience even more unique. The freezing fog shrouded everything in an eerie haze reminiscent of some kind of twilight zone. In addition, the Polar Vortex had been in place just long enough to start coating the landscape with a visible layer of ice. The setting late afternoon sun made that haze even eerier.

The deeper I got into Texas, the longer the bitter cold Polar Vortex air had been entrenched in place. Temperatures continued to plummet. Not surprisingly, the fog got thicker the further east I got. The setting sun slowly swallowed you into that twilight zone of darkness.

Things got even weirder as I crossed into Oklahoma.

Oklahoma? More Like Snow-klahoma!

How many times have you seen something bad happen and thought, “that won’t happen here”? I’ve done it more times than I care to admit, including this trip. Once I crossed the state line into Oklahoma, it didn’t take long for me to realize the full seriousness and severity of the Polar Vortex. At a gas station in Elk City, I noticed that both the windshield cleaner and the hand sanitizer had frozen solid as I fought 50 mph (80 km/h) winds and -11°F (-24°C) wind chills to fill my gas tank.

The Polar Vortex Flexes Its Muscles

Less than 48 hours after arriving in Norman, the first of back-to-back snowstorms hit the Southern Plains. After just a few days of wild weather we had shattered all kinds of winter weather records.

Most notably, the National Weather Service measured the coldest temperatures ever recorded in the State of Oklahoma. The only Oklahoma saw colder temperatures occurred in the late 1800s, when it was still the Indian Territory.

Thankfully, the snow didn’t stick around for very long. Temperatures rapidly warmed as the Polar Vortex pulled out of the area. In true Oklahoma fashion, we were walking around in shorts and t-shirts less than a week later as temperatures soared to 74°F (23°C).

Having Fun with Physics During a Power Outage in Sub-Zero Polar Vortex Temperatures

It often feels daunting when you lose power during a storm. Initial panic sets in that much more when the power goes out when it’s -5°F (-21°C) out and blowing over 30 mph (50 km/h). That’s the exact situation we found ourselves in the middle of the heaviest snow during my stay in Oklahoma.

I awoke in the middle of the night. As I reached for my phone to check the time, I noticed that it felt chilly in the house. I figured the thermostat had been turned down at night, and I didn’t think much of it. It was about 5:15 AM, so I decided to check the weather on my phone to see how cold it had gotten.

Much to my surprise, my phone could not connect to the internet. Not only was the WiFi out, I had no cell service, either. Being in the middle of a city of 125,000 people, something was very wrong.

I sat up and noticed that all of the night lights in the hallway were flickering and and off. I kept thinking, was I back in the twilight zone I was in driving here? At that point, I knew it was only a matter of time before the power company pulled the plug.

Less than 5 minutes later, the power went out for good. All you could hear was the wind, the snow, and the transformers blowing up nearby. At that point, there wasn’t much I could do, so I rolled over and went back to sleep.

Physics and Thermodynamics: An Alternate Source of Entertainment

If you’ve ever studied physics, chemistry, or thermodynamics, you’ve probably heard of the ideal gas law. While it has its limitations, the law is a good approximation of many gases, including air, under many conditions. Mathematically, it is defined as:

pV = nRT

where

• p is the pressure
• V is the volume
• n is the amount of gas
• R is the ideal gas constant
• T is the temperature

Now, here’s where the fun starts. I slept on an air mattress while I was in Norman. Because the power was out, the heat in the house did not work, so the house cooled off. In terms of the ideal gas law, we know that R is already constant. Inside the sealed air mattress, both the amount of air (n) and the volume (V) are also constant. We can reduce the ideal gas law to a simple relationship.

p ~ T

In layman’s terms, that equation just means that as temperature changes, the pressure will change in the same manner, and vice versa. We were now about 3 hours into the power outage, and the house was really starting to feel cold. As the temperature continued to drop, I could feel the air mattress getting softer and softer until I could feel my butt hit the floor underneath the mattress.

Here’s the best part. Shortly after 8 AM, the power came back on. It was cold in the house, so I decided to stay in my nice warm sleeping bag until the heat could work its magic. As the house warmed back up, the air mattress reinflated as the pressure inside increased. Before I knew it, the ideal gas law had lifted my backside up off the floor, and the house had returned to its normal temperature.

Up Next

As memorable as my stopover in Oklahoma has been, this is not the end of my dance with the Polar Vortex and Old Man Winter. Next week, we’ll continue east and see if it really was that wise of a decision to go camping in the mountains in Kentucky in February…in the middle of an ice storm. All that and more right here next Friday at 9 AM Pacific Time. See you then.

Top Photo: Heavy Snow Falls During the Polar Vortex
Norman, Oklahoma – February, 2021

The post Pioneering Peril: A Pandemic Polar Vortex in Tornado Alley appeared first on Matthew Gove Blog.

Lessons From My Road Trip to Oregon Last Summer

This trip is actually not my first foray out of Arizona during the COVID-19 pandemic. Last summer, I drove to Oregon to get a reprieve from Arizona’s summer COVID-19 spike and its relentless summer heat. In 2020, we had over 50 days of high temperatures above 110°F (44°C), which shattered the old record of 33. The Oregon trip was eye-popping, making me realize the complete callousness and carelessness of Arizona’s attitude toward the pandemic.

What a Difference Crossing the State Line Makes

On the Oregon road trip, my first gas stop was in Kingman, Arizona. I almost always stop in Kingman on trips that take me to California and Nevada. Kingman has always been safe and welcoming, and I have never once felt any hint of sketchiness or being unsafe.

I followed the same rules on the Oregon trip as I did this road trip. As a result, I wore N-95 masks every gas stop because I did not want to bring COVID-19 to Oregon with me. As I gassed up in Kingman, I noticed that a crowd had started to gather around me. They did not look happy, either. By the time I finished pumping the gas, the crowd was circling me much in the same way a group of lions closes in on a wounded gazelle. Thankfully, I left without incident.

Who Knew What to Expect Crossing into Nevada

Fast forward a few hours. I’m north of Las Vegas, and it’s time for my second gas stop. As I pulled into the gas station, every pump had a handwritten sign on it. That sign said in both English and Spanish, “No Mask, No Service”. I thought okay, feeling much less sketched out now.

Shortly after I started fueling, a car pulled into the other side of the pump. I was cautiously curious to see what would happen, since I had received death threats over masks in similar situations in Arizona. A middle-aged couple got out of the car, and they were both masked. This was the exact moment it started setting in just how completely batshit crazy Arizona was.

The lady in the other car started pumping gas, and the man started walking towards the convenience store. I noticed that he turned around after he got about half way to the convenience store. As he approached the car, he said “Honey, can you hand me my mask? I can’t go in without it.” That completely blew my mind. I was no more than 50 or 60 miles (80 or 100 km) from the Arizona border. What alternate universe have I ported into?

Oregon Took COVID-19 Seriously, Too

Even in very rural areas, both Oregon and Nevada took things seriously. Everyone wore masks in public, and you could see COVID-19 precautions in place everywhere. People kept their distance and largely stayed out of indoor public places. I felt things were much more controlled in Oregon and Nevada, and felt safer as a result.

All right, back to the present day.

Arizona

Things on this road trip were going to be different than the Oregon trip. So much has changed in just the six months since I drove to Oregon. Most notably, we now have several highly-effective vaccines available, as well as new antiviral treatments.

You don’t have to be on the freeway for long to realize how the pandemic has halted recreational travel. Unlike my summer road trip, my route this trip largely confined me to the Interstate system, whereas I only spent about 45 minutes of the 22-hour drive to Oregon on the Interstate.

You’ll quickly notice that once you’re out of the city, traffic on the freeway is almost exclusively semi trucks and big rigs. This is especially prevalent once you get on a major cross-country artery such as Interstate 40. It’s wintertime, and the pandemic is keeping everybody at home.

Even Mother Nature came through to help get the trip off to a good start. She treated us to spectacular morning driving conditions east of Flagstaff.

New Mexico

Entering New Mexico, I expected a very similar experience to the one I had in Nevada last summer. New Mexico did not disappoint. Right at the state line, they greet you with several signs.

• New Mexicans take COVID-19 seriously
• Masks are required statewide
• People arriving from out of state must quarantine
• If you break the rules, they will fine you.

I suspect that the reason New Mexico keeps reminding you of the rules is that if you exclude the international border, it’s surrounded on two of its remaining three sides by states that routinely flout COVID-19 restrictions and mock the pandemic. Additionally, both east-west arteries through New Mexico – Interstate 40 and Interstate 10 – directly connect those neighboring states that have made a mockery of the pandemic.

Even once you get away from the state line, you will be constantly reminded of the ongoing pandemic. Electronic signs in front of businesses instructed people to mask up, keep your distance, and stay safe. Interestingly, I also felt a sense of optimism in the air as businesses looked forward to adding capacity as COVID-19 cases continue to decline.

Ironically, the only time I really felt sketchy on the entire cross-country road trip occurred in one of the states I expected to feel the safest. The town of Tucumcari sits right on Interstate 40 about 30 miles west of the Texas state line. As I pulled into a gas station in town, I noticed that all of the vehicles there had Texas license plates. It was basically a repeat of what happened in Kingman last summer. It’s unnerving as hell having the angry crowd gathering around you, but once again, I was very grateful to get in and out without incident.

A Sneak Preview: An Icy Reception from the North Pole in Santa Rosa

As I passed through Santa Rosa, New Mexico, I punched through the strongest Polar Vortex to hit the US in recent memory. It brought some of the most wild weather I have ever seen on a road trip.

• Temperature dropped 45°F in 15 minutes
• Freezing fog leads into the twilight zone in the Texas Panhandle
• Wind chills dropped to -35°F (-37°C).
• The State of Oklahoma measured its coldest temperature ever.

Tune in next week for the full story, including pictures.

Texas

The Lone Star State continues to be in complete denial about the events of 2020. While I did not stop in Texas, you can see plenty from the highway as you pass through.

If you were dropped into the Texas panhandle without context, you would have no idea there was a once-in-a-century pandemic going on. The “Twilight Zone” effect from the freezing fog and the polar vortex only made this visit to Texas even weirder.

• Bars, restaurants, and stores in Amarillo were absolutely packed.
• There was not a mask, an effort to stay socially distanced, or any other attempts to contain COVID-19 to be found.
• You’ll see all kinds of political pro-Trump, anti-pandemic, and stolen election signs on the side of the highway.

The weather only continued to deteriorate as I got into Oklahoma.

Western Oklahoma

I always feel like I’m home when I cross the state line from Texas into Oklahoma. It was my route home after so many memorable storm chases, after all. While this road trip did feel a bit like storm chasing, tornadoes were the last thing on my mind as I headed back to my old stomping grounds. While I had prepared for cold weather, I was most certainly not ready for the bitter temperatures that welcomed me back to Oklahoma.

Shortly after dusk, I pulled off the freeway for one of my final gas stops of the day in Elk City, Oklahoma. When you exit onto the eastbound I-40 business loop, you have to travel for several miles through the open prairie before you reach Elk City proper. The gas station I had chosen was west of Elk City, in the open prairie.

Pulling in, I glanced up at the thermometer in the truck. The outside temperature had dropped to 14°F (-10°C). I thought to myself, no big deal, these temperatures are nothing new to me. It doesn’t take that long to pump a tank of gas. I put on my heavy coat, winter hat, and warm gloves. When I opened the door to step out, it completely took my breath away.

There’s a Reason the Chorus of the Musical Oklahoma! is so Famous

If you’ve ever driven across western Oklahoma, you’ll know that it is flat and open. When the wind blows, there is nothing to knock it down. No trees, no hills, no barriers. Nothing. In fact, the terrain slopes ever so slightly downhill as you go from west to east. When the wind has a westerly component, gravity can actually help accelerate the wind as it comes down the prairie.

What I had failed to realize while I was driving was that the polar wind was whipping down the Oklahoma prairie at about 50 mph (80 km/h). While I was dressed appropriately for the cold, I was not dressed for that kind of wind. The conditions in Elk City that evening combined to yield a wind chill of -11°F (-24°C). To add insult to injury, I had parked so the filler nozzle was on the upwind side of the truck, so there was nowhere to hide from the wind.

This was the exact moment it hit me just how severe this Polar Vortex would be. As I clamored back into the truck to warm up, barely able to feel my face, fingers, and toes, I happened to glance down. Both the windshield cleaner and hand sanitizer the gas station had put out were frozen solid. Not slushy or syrupy. Solid.

By the time I got to my friend’s house in Norman, temperatures had dropped into the single digits and bottomed out around -5°F (-21°C) the next morning. And that was only the beginning.

Up Next

Tune in next time to hear the full details of my tango with the Polar Vortex. Temperatures were much more reminiscent of northern Alaska in February than the southern plains. We’ll enter the twilight zone in Texas. In Oklahoma, experience power outages as wind chills dropped to -35°F (-37°C) while getting buried under a foot of snow.

Then, in true Oklahoma fashion, less than a week later, we were walking around in t-shirts and shorts as temperatures soared to 75°F (24°C). See you next week.

Top Photo: The Morning Sun Illuminates Palo Duro Canyon
Amarillo, Texas – August, 2019

The post COVID-19 Road Trip Journal: Wild Weather in the Wild West appeared first on Matthew Gove Blog.