Destinations Archives - Matthew Gove Blog https://blog.matthewgove.com/category/matt-gove-photo/destinations/ Travel the World through Maps, Data, and Photography Wed, 01 Jun 2022 23:54:46 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.1.6 https://blog.matthewgove.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/cropped-android-chrome-512x512-1-32x32.png Destinations Archives - Matthew Gove Blog https://blog.matthewgove.com/category/matt-gove-photo/destinations/ 32 32 A Powerful, Heartbreaking Exhibit of the Severe Drought in California https://blog.matthewgove.com/2022/03/25/a-powerful-heartbreaking-exhibit-of-the-severe-drought-in-california/ Fri, 25 Mar 2022 16:00:00 +0000 https://blog.matthewgove.com/?p=4112 You’ve probably heard a lot about the severe drought in California on the news over the past few years. And if you’re like most people who don’t live there, you probably just shrugged it off. It wasn’t a direct threat to your daily life. The seriousness of the drought didn’t […]

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You’ve probably heard a lot about the severe drought in California on the news over the past few years. And if you’re like most people who don’t live there, you probably just shrugged it off. It wasn’t a direct threat to your daily life. The seriousness of the drought didn’t truly hit me until I traveled to California for the first time since the start of the COVID-19 pandemic. And that’s coming from someone who has called Arizona home for the past six years and has travelled extensively throughout the western United States during that time.

Anthony Bourdain once famously said, “Travel changes you. As you move through this life and this world you change things slightly, you leave marks behind, however small. And in return, life — and travel — leaves marks on you.” Travel has left plenty of marks on me over the years. However, this quote really hit home after a recent road trip I took through California. Today, I want to share that story with you.

What Causes Severe Drought in Western States Such as California?

Most people attribute drought to the lack of rain. However, it’s actually not the primary cause of severe drought in the western United States. To find the culprit, you need to look in an unexpected place. In fact, you’ll find it in the exact opposite of the summer season that makes headlines for searing temperatures and massive wildfires.

The winter season actually determines how severe the drought will be in California and throughout the west. More specifically, the amount of snow that falls in the mountains is what drives drought levels. In the spring, the snow melt feeds rivers, streams, and creeks, providing water to the valleys below. Unlike a rainstorm, snow melt is a slow process that provides a steady supply of water for months. And for many rivers, snow melt is their only source of water.

The Snow-Capped Sierra Nevada Surround Lake Tahoe in February, 2020

Most of California’s mountains snows fall in the Sierra Nevada. Rising over 14,000 feet above sea level, the Sierra runs pretty much the entire length of California’s eastern border with Nevada. During normal winters, pretty much every snow event in the Sierras is measured in feet, not inches. Snow melt from the Sierra Nevada alone provides water over 25 million Californians – about 65% of the state’s population.

The California Drought: Data and Statistics

Before diving into the drought data for the entire state of California, let’s have a look at annual snowfall in the Sierra Nevada over the past ten years. We’ll at two hotspots for heavy snow. First up is Donner Pass, which sits along Interstate 80 just west of Truckee and northwest of Lake Tahoe. Then, we’ll look Mammoth Mountain, one of California’s most popular ski resorts. Mammoth Mountain sits about 45 miles (72 km) southeast of Yosemite National Park.

WinterDonner PassMammoth Mountain
2012 – 201313 in / 33 cm315 in / 800 cm
2013 – 201433 in / 84 cm192 in / 488 cm
2014 – 201514 in / 35 cm161 in / 409 cm
2015 – 2016289 in / 734 cm393 in / 999 cm
2016 – 2017474 in / 1,204 cm608 in / 1,544 cm
2017 – 2018225 in / 572 cm277 in / 704 cm
2018 – 2019381 in / 968 cm495 in / 1,258 cm
2019 – 2020180 in / 457 cm153 in / 389 cm
2020 – 2021129 in / 328 cm225 in / 572 cm
2021 – 2022 (To Date)179 in / 455 cm178 in / 453 cm
Yearly Snowfall Totals in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, California from 2012 to 2022

Snowfalls are Way Down in Recent Years Throughout the West

From the bar chart, it’s pretty clear that snow levels in the Sierra Nevada are way down every year since 2018. This pattern is echoed across mountain ranges throughout the west, from Washington to New Mexico. As a result, water levels have plummeted across the entire region due to the lack of snow melt. The southwestern states, plus California have born the brunt of the recent drought.

Extremely low water levels at Lake Mead are seen from Interstate 11 south of Las Vegas, Nevada in January, 2022

To further compound the matter, smaller snowpacks mean that the snow melts faster. In 2021, snowpack across the entire state of California had completely melted by May, about two to three months earlier than average. The faster rate of snow melt results in most of the water running off instead of being absorbed into soils that so desperately need it.

Snowpack on California’s Mt. Shasta in August, 2017

As you can probably deduce, dry soils lock a layer of extremely dry air at the surface throughout the summer months. Unfortunately, that only makes it harder for much needed rain to reach the ground. Much of California is caught in this vicious positive feedback loop that only makes the drought worse.

An Anthony Bourdain Quote and a Trip Up Interstate 5 Makes the Severity of the California Drought Really Hit Home

In January 2022, I took a road trip from Las Vegas to Salem, Oregon. Coupled with a stop to visit one of my best friends in San Francisco, the trip took me across nearly the entire state of California. It marked my first visit to California since February, 2020.

During that time, both the drought and wildfires have gotten exponentially worse, thanks to a lack of snowpack in the mountains. And seeing areas that were so lush and vibrant in 2017 now completely ravaged by drought and wildfire really left a big mark on me. In ways that really didn’t expect.

“Travel changes you. As you move through this life and this world you change things slightly, you leave marks behind, however small. And in return, life – and travel – leaves marks on you.”

Anthony Bourdain

A Stunning Drive Through California’s Central Valley

If you’ve never driven through California’s Central Valley, it’s one of the more uniquely spectacular drives in the United States. Responsible for 8% of the United States’ agricultural output, the Central Valley features lush and fertile fields surrounded by majestic mountains. It’s hard to not feel a special connection to nature. And if you drive through at the right time of year, the smell of fresh fruits and vegetables is heavenly.

Furthermore, when I drove through in mid-January, farmers were in the process of prepping and seeding their fields for the spring and summer growing seasons. Passing through the Central Valley was like a cleansing and rebirth for you mind and soul. At times, you felt like you were in a fairy tale, having been teleported to some faraway land. The pandemic and all the other problems in the world felt so far away.

Scenery in the Central Valley north of Sacramento, California in January, 2022

A Stunning Snow-Capped Mt. Shasta Completes the Fairy Tale

Towering 14,179 feet above sea level and over 10,000 feet above the surrounding terrain, Mt. Shasta dominates the northern California landscape. It’s the second tallest mountain in the Cascades, behind only Mt. Rainier. And Rainier is only 250 feet taller. On a clear day, you can see Mt. Shasta from as far as Central Oregon, over 140 miles away. You can actually find some of the best views of Mt. Shasta right from both US-97 and Interstate 5.

Surrounding Mt. Shasta, you’ll find simply breathtaking scenery. Golden meadows, stunning rolling hills, and refreshing pine forests transport you even further into that fairy tale. All those worries you had to start the day seem even further away than they did down in the Central Valley.

As a photographer, I try to keep an eye out for good photo ops on road trips. However, a truly spectacular composition catches your eye right away. Shortly after beginning the climb out of the Central Valley up into the Cascades, I came around a corner on Interstate 5 and into a clearing. And what lay before me was one of the most perfectly composed landscapes I had ever seen.

Off in the distance sat Mt. Shasta, perfectly framed between two smaller mountains. It provided a beautiful backdrop for seemingly endless meadows and rolling hills that disappeared into a light haze that shrouded the base of the mountain. Small ponds dotted the foreground on the side of the freeway, adding even more diversity to the shot. It was a combination of beautiful, mysterious, and exotic, balanced to perfection. The perfect composition to capture the fairy tale I had drifted off into.

You Can’t Stop on the Freeway to Take Pictures

Unfortunately, I also had a few things working against me. Most critically, I was cruising at 70 miles per hour up Interstate 5. There were no exits or pullouts nearby, and I wasn’t about to stop in the middle of a busy freeway just to take a picture. Furthermore, there was no safe way for me to take a picture with my DSLR camera while I was driving. But I wasn’t going to let this perfect photo op go to waste.

While using my big camera was out of the question, I still had one more tool available to me. And at this point, it was really my only option. I grabbed my phone, rolled down the passenger side window, leaned over far enough to get the window frame out of the picture, and blindly started snapping as I kept looking forward to keep my eyes on the road.

I expected to get a decent shot. What I didn’t expect was to get one of the best photos I’ve ever taken, and one that will be put up for sale in our store very soon.

It’s hard to believe, but this photo of Mt. Shasta was taken blindly out my passenger side window going 70 mph on Interstate 5

Then reality hit, hard. Like being hit by a Mack truck hard.

A California Landscape Ravaged by Wildfire and Drought

Over the past five years, parts of the Shasta-Trinity National Forest have been devastated by several major wildfires. The extreme drought that has suffocated California for much of that time has only made these fires larger and more intense. Most notable, the Carr Fire torched nearly 230,000 acres in the summer of 2018, forcing 38,000 people to evacuate their homes. It killed 11 people and caused $1.7 billion in damage.

Fast-forward three years. In late June, 2021, another fire broke out along Interstate 5 just north of Lake Shasta. That blaze, dubbed the Salt Fire, torched 13,000 acres on both sides of the freeway. While few people live in the area, the intensity of the fire devastated the landscape, changing it into a barren wasteland for years to come. The drought is one of the prime culprits behind the increase in both intensity and magnitude of these fires in California. But it’s not the only culprit. And there were far more blazes than just the two we’ve discussed here.

An unburned area along Interstate 5 in the Shasta-Trinity National Forest

From Lush Forest to Charred Hellscape

Like many natural disasters, you simply cannot grasp the scale of these California wildfires from newscasts on television. The only way to properly do so is by traveling to the burn area and seeing the devastation firsthand. And when you’re driving through lush green forests, it hits e0ven harder when it catches you by surprise. Which is exactly what the burn scar from the Salt Fire did. You come around a corner, and bam, the landscape instantly changes.

The Salt Fire completely incinerated everything in its path. It wiped entire parts of the National Forest completely off the map. It was just blackened hills and a few remaining trunks of the trees that had burned. Everything else was gone. As far as the eye could see. Even six months after the fire, the smoky smell of burnt wood still faintly hung in the air.

Salt Fire burn scar, as seen from Interstate 5 near Shasta Lake, California

Combined with the Wildfire Devastation, the California Drought at Lake Shasta Really Left Its Mark on Me. It Should Leave its Mark on You, Too.

The second I drove into that burn scar north of Redding, it instantly ended that fairy tale from the Central Valley. But interestingly, it didn’t leave as big a mark as you would have thought. For that, it took driving across the bridge at Lake Shasta to see the true effect the drought and the fires have had on California. It hits hard and it hits heavy, but it’s a series of pictures everyone should see.

View of Lake Shasta from Interstate 5 in August, 2017 (left) vs January, 2022 (right). Click on the image to enlarge.

And while the water level in the lake should be what instantly catches your eye, did you notice the mountains behind the lake in the 2022 picture? They were all burned in the recent fires. It’s hard to see in the 2017 photo because the lake was shrouded in smoke, but the forest was lush green back then.

Conclusion

As Anthony Bourdain so famously said, travel changes you and leaves its mark on you. But at the same time, it gives us the opportunity to leave our mark on it. We can use these experiences and lessons to influence our own decisions. The vast majority of wildfires in the United States are the result of human error. We can make better decisions to help prevent states like California from burning, as well as reduce the effect of severe drought. What steps will you take?

To wrap this all up, let’s go full circle and end with another Anthony Bourdain quote: “Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.” What good will you leave behind? Let us know in the comments.

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Top Photo: Low Water Levels Due to Severe Drought
Lake Shasta, California – January, 2022

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5 Reasons You Need to Travel Your Home Country Before Setting Off Abroad https://blog.matthewgove.com/2022/03/18/5-reasons-you-need-to-travel-your-home-country-before-setting-off-abroad/ https://blog.matthewgove.com/2022/03/18/5-reasons-you-need-to-travel-your-home-country-before-setting-off-abroad/#comments Fri, 18 Mar 2022 16:00:00 +0000 https://blog.matthewgove.com/?p=4105 Traveling abroad is one of the richest and most rewarding experiences in life. It opens your mind, exposes you to new culture, teaches you about yourself, expands your perspective, and much more. But how exactly do we maximize the reward of international travel? The answer lies closer than you think. […]

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Traveling abroad is one of the richest and most rewarding experiences in life. It opens your mind, exposes you to new culture, teaches you about yourself, expands your perspective, and much more. But how exactly do we maximize the reward of international travel? The answer lies closer than you think. To get the fullest experience, you need to travel your home country before you set off abroad. Without those experiences in your home country, traveling abroad will be a hollow experience that lacks clarity and meaning. Here’s why.

Travel in Your Home Country will Establish a Baseline for Comparison Once You Get Abroad

In the scientific method, establishing a baseline using a control group is a critical step in conducting a successful experiment. If you’re unfamiliar with a control group, it’s the group in your experiment where you don’t introduce the independent variable you’re testing. The most well-known recent example of a control group was in the clinical trials of the COVID-19 vaccines. In those trials, participants were either given the vaccine or a placebo. The group that received the placebo was the control group.

Traveling in your home country before setting off abroad establishes the same type of baseline. Without that baseline, you’ll have nothing to compare your adventures abroad to. Your experiences won’t be as authentic or as deep as they would be had you fully experienced your home country first before going abroad.

My adventures throughout the United States have taken me to some pretty amazing places over the years.

Traveling in Your Home Country will Open and Re-Open Your Mind

We’re all creatures of habit. There’s simply no denying that. We all have our routines that we like to follow every day, no matter how monotonous they may seem. Unfortunately it’s easy to become close-minded when all you do is follow the same routine every day. Furthermore, it’s so easy to fall into the trap of only exposing yourself to content and ideas you agree with. It can be difficult for a lot of people, but it’s really beneficial to at least hear what the other side has to say.

Getting out to travel and explore your home country will break that routine, regardless of whether or not you intend to go abroad. I strongly recommend that you travel beyond your home state or region. That will almost force you to open up to other regional cultures throughout your home country. See new sights. Try new foods. Listen to different types of music. The list goes on and on. Some you may agree with, and some you may not.

Opening your mind through travel in your home country is even more important in large diverse countries, such as the United States and Canada. For example, in the United States, which is my home country, you’ll have vastly different experiences in New England vs. the Deep South, the coast vs. the heartland, Alaska vs. Hawaii, and beyond. Is that still not enough to convince you? Getting out of your rut has been proven to boost your mental health, productivity, and efficiency. And domestic travel is one of the best ways to get out of your rut! What are you waiting for?

To fully open my own mind, it has been a long-time goal of mine to visit all 50 U.S. States and all 13 Canadian Provinces and territories. Furthermore, I intend to visit as many Mexican states as I can. Not only will this help me better understand my fellow Americans, it will also open my mind to our neighbors to both the north and south.

You’ll Expand Your Horizons Domestically and Gain a Better Perspective of Your Home Country

Travel allows you to better understand the issues facing fellow citizens in your home country. Even better, you’ll learn about issues that are affecting people across the aisle from you, whether that aisle is political, age, gender, race, or anything else. Because when we can better understand each other, we can better heal the rifts that divide us, as well as strengthen the bonds that unite us. This is especially true for large and diverse countries such as the United States and Canada.

Two Cross-Country Road Trips Across the United States During the COVID-19 Pandemic are Eye-Opening

When the COVID-19 pandemic broke out in early 2020, it cut me off from the rest of my family on the other side of the country. The pandemic, plus the complete shitshow that Arizona turned into following the 2020 election pushed me over the edge, as I was receiving threats related to either the pandemic or the election pretty much any time I went out in public. As a result, I drove across the United States at the height of the winter COVID-19 wave in February, 2021 to re-unite with my family on the east coast.

Just a few of the hazards to deal with on my February, 2021 cross-country road trip

Without access to vaccines or much other protection from the pandemic, traveling in the bubble while trying to avoid all contact with the outside world was not particularly comfortable or pleasant. But I made it across without getting sick, and I’m really damn proud of that. Most importantly, that trip was absolutely eye-opening for how different parts of the country viewed the pandemic. The lessons I learned from that trip were heartbreaking. However, they ultimately gave me a much better appreciation for the issues that have bitterly divided the country, and I am eternally grateful for that.

What a Difference a Year Makes

Now fast-forward a year. Vaccines are widely available. But less than a week before I was set to leave to drive back across the country to sell my house, South Africa announced they discovered the omicron variant. On the second day of my road trip, the U.S. confirmed its first case of omicron in California. I vividly remember listening to Dr. Fauci’s press conference that afternoon as I drove across Iowa.

As omicron spiked to nearly four times the peak of the 2020 winter wave, I can only describe the feeling in the western US as eerily normal. I still don’t know whether that was a good thing or a bad thing. But the big thing I noticed was that each side’s animosity towards the other side over COVID-19 restrictions was far less compared to just nine or ten months earlier. The bitter divisions were still clear as I made my way around the United States, but there was a sense of optimism everywhere that didn’t exist earlier in the pandemic. Even better, I was able to enjoy the first “fun” trip since my 2019 road across Mexico, the United States, and Canada. What a difference a year makes!

Scenes from my Winter 2021-2022 Cross Country Road Trip

Get a Fuller and Deeper Perspective of Your Home Country Once You Travel Abroad

As a result, once you go abroad, you’ll have a much deeper understanding and perspective of your home country. Between 2017 and the onset of the pandemic, I routinely traveled to Puerto Peñasco and Los Algodones, Mexico because I wanted to see how “the other side” viewed the border issues that became a central talking point of the Trump presidency.

Interestingly, what hit the hardest was not what the Mexicans thought about the border issues. Instead, it was how much visiting Mexico changed my perspective of the United States. Specifically, it opened my eyes to just how bitter and divided the U.S. had become. More importantly, I realized that I had become rather narrow-minded and needed to be more open and accepting of other views.

You don’t need to go far to realize this deeper perspective. The majority of my trips to Mexico brought me to Los Algodones, where I could make these comparisons less than a block and a half from the border.

You’ll Have a Deeper Connection to Culture and Customs Abroad

You can’t be a global citizen without understanding you own country. A global citizen is someone who is aware of the world and has a sense of their role in it. They are involved as members of the international community and are committed to building on this community in a meaningful and positive way. Becoming a global citizen will broaden your global perspective and allow you to bring fresh, new views back to your own community. As a global citizen, you’ll gain a deeper connection to culture and customs both at home and abroad.

When you travel in your home country, you’ll expose yourself to new culture and history. On my recent trip through the western United States, I not only traveled, but also experienced the entire length of the Oregon Trail. Being able to see the wagon ruts and walk in the exact same spot as so many westbound emigrants nearly 180 years ago transports you back in time. You realize the immense scale of the challenges and hardships these settlers had to endure on what was often a nine or ten month journey west, in a way that history textbooks simply cannot teach. These direct experiences in culture and history in your home country ultimately lead to a much richer experience abroad.

Oregon Trail wagon ruts on California Hill near Brule, Nebraska in December, 2021

You’ll Learn New Things About Yourself

There’s no better way to learn new things about yourself than to step out of your comfort zone. Get out there and try new things. It will open your mind and you’ll be amazed at how many new things you’ll learn about yourself. Then, once you head abroad, you’ll be able to expand on those lessons and learn even more about yourself.

On the summit of Four Peaks in Arizona in 2017. Stepping out of your comfort zone will lead you to amazing places, no matter where you are.

You’ll Support Local Economies

Here in the United States, greed is pretty much built into the corporate culture. Instead, I prefer to shop local when I travel. You’ll be supporting small businesses and mom and pop shops that can use the revenue a lot more than some mega corporation. Furthermore, your money will stay local and support the local economy instead of lining the pockets of some rich CEO in a big city that’s a long way from where you happen to be. As a small business owner, I encourage you to shop small and shop local. Your local economy will thank you.

Conclusion

Traveling abroad is one of life’s richest experiences. You’ll immerse yourself in new cultures and customs, push yourself beyond your comfort zone, as well as learn an incredible amount about yourself, your home country, as well as the destinations to which you’re traveling.

However, in order to get the fullest experience abroad, you must travel and experience your home country first. Without experiencing your own country first, you won’t have that baseline to compare your adventures abroad. And as a result, you’d miss out on one of the primary reasons we travel in the first place.

Top Photo: Rafting the Colorado River
Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona – June, 2015

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Arches and Canyonlands: A Remarkable Two Day Adventure to Northern Utah National Parks https://blog.matthewgove.com/2022/03/04/arches-and-canyonlands-a-remarkable-two-day-adventure-to-northern-utah-national-parks/ Fri, 04 Mar 2022 16:00:00 +0000 https://blog.matthewgove.com/?p=4017 After setting foot inside the Utah National Parks for the first time in 2012, getting to all of Utah’s “Big 5” National Parks instantly went on my bucket list. After allocating far too little time during that first visit to Zion in 2012, I knew I would get back to […]

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After setting foot inside the Utah National Parks for the first time in 2012, getting to all of Utah’s “Big 5” National Parks instantly went on my bucket list. After allocating far too little time during that first visit to Zion in 2012, I knew I would get back to Utah, eventually. At the time, I had no idea if eventually meant 5 years, 10 years, or even 20 years. I just knew I needed to get back.

Five years later, I did finally get back. On a family trip in 2017, we checked off Zion (again), Bryce Canyon, and Capitol Reef National Parks in southern Utah. Despite being so close to each other, all three National Parks are so different, so unique, and so breathtaking. But the two northern Utah National Parks, Arches and Canyonlands, remained elusive. And living in Arizona, it was another frustrating case of so close, but yet so far. Year after year. But that only made me more driven than ever to get there.

What Are the “Big 5” National Parks in Utah?

If you’re unfamiliar with Utah’s geography, the state has an incredible diversity of National Parks, National Monuments, National Forests, National Recreation Areas, and Bureau of Land Management (BLM) land. Utah is quite literally a recreation paradise that offers just about every outdoor activity you can think of. The five national parks in Utah are, in alphabetical order:

  1. Arches National Park
  2. Bryce Canyon National Park
  3. Canyonlands National Park
  4. Capitol Reef National Park
  5. Zion National Park

Zion, Bryce Canyon, and Capitol Reef National Parks are clustered together in the southern part of Utah. At the same time, Arches and Canyonlands National Parks sit about 30 minutes apart in northeastern Utah.

The COVID-19 Pandemic Provides Motivation for Going to Check Off Bucket List Items

I, like many people, took a lot of things for granted prior to the COVID-19 pandemic, including travel and photography. When the world shut down in March, 2020, it took the travel and photography away from me. For over a year and a half, it felt like part of me was missing. And in a way, it was. But instead of seeing the pandemic as a setback, it became a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for me.

The pandemic has made me more driven than ever to pursue my passions, goals, and mission. I decided to further integrate travel, photography, and videography into the core of my business. It led me to realize exactly what I want life to look like. And now, it’s time to chase those new dreams.

Utah National Parks: Trip Background and Motivation

The primary purpose of this trip was to take care of the business of selling my house in Arizona. However, I wanted to make sure I mixed in a bunch of fun, too. And that has nothing to do with the fact that moving sucks, and I’ve done it far too many times. It’s because I haven’t had a fun trip since my 2019 Road Trip across Mexico, the United States, and Canada. Two and a half years is a very long time to go without something that you’re not only passionate about, but also something you use as an escape from tough times.

The logistics for the trip came into place absolutely perfectly. Because COVID-19 was still raging in the south, I opted for the northern route (I-80) across most of the country. Furthermore, one of my friends had just moved to Boulder, Colorado, which was also conveniently right along the way. But best of all, it meant that I’d be driving right by the two remaining Utah National Parks – Arches and Canyonlands – that I had yet to visit, on my way back to Arizona. Unfortunately, I only had about a day and a half to explore both parks, so I wanted to make sure I made the most of every minute I had.

Day 1: Catching Sunset at Arches National Park

After a spectacular drive across the Colorado Rockies on Interstate 70 from Boulder, I rolled into Moab around 3:30 PM local time. After checking into the hotel, I didn’t even bother heading up to the room. I headed straight to Arches National Park. This was in early December, so I only had about an hour and a half to familiarize myself with the park and scope out a good place for a sunset photo shoot.

I Nearly Missed the Sunset Because I Wasn’t Paying Attention

If you’ve ever been to Arches before, you’ll know that it takes about 45 minutes to drive from one end of the park to the other. Unfortunately, I didn’t realize this because it was my first time at Arches. If there’s one thing you need to know about me, it’s that I tend to pull off and shoot a lot of photos and videos my first time I visit somewhere new. This is especially true for a place as beautiful as Arches.

Beautiful Rock Formations near the Entrance to Arches National Park, Utah

After what felt like just a short few moments, I looked down at the clock. It was almost 4:40 PM. I only had about 15 minutes to find a spot to watch the 5:00 PM sunset. And wasn’t even half way through the park, yet. That’s about when that little bit of panic sets in. Am I going to miss sunset because I was being an idiot and not paying attention to the clock? Not if I can help it. To make matters worse, there’s no cell service inside the park, either.

Thankfully, with the help of my GPS and the brochures the National Park Service gives you when you enter each park, I identified a good spot several miles back that would be a good spot to watch sunset. But could I make it in time? The truck may have felt like an Indy Car at times racing back to that spot, but rest assured I obeyed the speed limit at all times. And the timing ended up being perfect, as I got there about 7 minutes before sunset.

Post-Sunset Twilight at Arches National Park is Absolutely Magical

If you think the golden hour is a magical time for landscape photography, you’ve never seen Arches National Park during that 40-or-so-minute window of dusk and twilight following sunset. The entire landscape is cast in a spectacular color. It starts as a vibrant violet or purple right after sunset and slowly shifts to a navy blue hue as dusk progresses. When contrast against Arches’ brilliant red rocks and a fresh blanket of snow on the top of the nearby LaSal Mountains, it’s no wonder why these are such sought-after shots. The same goes for all of the other Utah National Parks, too.

While watching the last dregs of light disappear from the western horizon, I was completely awe-struck by what I had witnessed. It was really that beautiful. I could have easily sat there all night watching the stars, but that’s a project for another day. Time to head back to the hotel to get dinner and a good night’s sleep.

Utah National Parks Day 2: Diving Deeper into Arches and an Afternoon at Canyonlands

After waking up, I rolled over and looked at the clock. 6:20 AM. Then I opened the weather app on my phone to check the sunrise. 7:23 AM. There was more than enough time to get to Arches to see the sunrise. I hadn’t originally planned to get up in time for sunrise because thick cloud cover was expected to roll in early that morning. But skies were still relatively clear, so I quickly got dressed and headed back up to Arches. I wouldn’t be able to live with myself if I missed a beautiful sunrise.

The Arches Sunset was Breathtaking. Then Sunrise Said “Hold My Beer.”

If there’s one thing I learned in all the years I spent storm chasing, it’s that plans rarely go off without a hitch. Mother Nature always seems to throw you a curveball at some point. Sometimes it’s for the better. Other (read: more often) times it’s not. Up at Arches that morning, the weather gods were looking out for us. The arrival of the thick cloud cover was delayed a few hours. It left absolutely perfect conditions for a beautiful sunrise in its place.

To Fully Experience Arches National Park, You Need to Get Out and Hike

Despite the gloomy skies and cold temperatures, I was actually most looking forward to doing some hiking at Arches National Park. After catching the sunrise, I headed up to Devil’s Garden, at the far northern end of the park. My friend in Boulder had recommended this hike because it gave you the most bang for your buck for seeing as many arches as possible if you didn’t have much time. And boy, was he ever right.

After setting off from the trailhead, you only need to hike about 600 feet, or 200 meters, to reach the first arch. From there, you’ll see 4 additional arches in the first mile of the trail, which will bring you to Landscape Arch. In September, 1991, visitors at Landscape Arch witnessed one of the largest rock falls in Arches National Park history. After hearing some cracking sounds, nearly 180 tons of rock fell from the bottom of Landscape Arch to the ground below. Those rocks still litter the landscape today.

Landscape Arch

Following the rock fall, park rangers closed the trail that led underneath Landscape Arch. That trail remains closed to this day. However, you can still get plenty close enough to get good photos and videos of it.

While you can make a loop through even more arches past Landscape Arch, I opted to return to the parking lot. The end of the main trail is at Landscape Arch, and I didn’t want to risk getting lost on the primitive trail. Plus, there were other parts of the park I still wanted to see, and I didn’t have a whole lot of time left, so I hiked the 1 mile (1.6 km) back to the parking lot.

Don’t Miss Delicate Arch, which is Utah’s Most Famous Arch

Even if you’ve never heard of Delicate Arch, I’ll be willing to bet that you’ve seen it before. It’s one of the most famous geologic features in the world. You can find pictures of it on tourism brochures, guides, and promotions not just in Utah, but throughout the western United States. It’s one of the most photographed spots in the entire National Park system, and even appears on the Utah license plate. And you can find it at Arches National Park.

Unfortunately, I did not have time to hike the three mile (4.8 km) round trip to Delicate Arch. And I’ll be the first to admit, I was a bit lazy too. The previous hike in the cold certainly didn’t help. But that didn’t stop me from getting pictures of it. You just have to work smarter, not harder.

There is a lookout where you can view Delicate Arch from two viewpoints off of a parking lot about half a mile (just under 1 km) from Delicate Arch. I had hoped to hike to the closer viewpoint, but I found barricades across the trail. It was closed for maintenance. So I got my big telephoto lens and walked out to the second, further away viewpoint. All I can say is, well, telephoto lens for the win!

Take Another Short Hike at The Windows on the Way Out of Arches National Park

If you’re short on time, I can’t recommend a hike at The Windows enough. At 0.7 miles (1.1 km) round trip, it’s an easy, relatively flat hike that will net you three additional arches. You’ll first visit the beautiful pair of arches that make up The Windows. You can actually hike right up underneath them and take in the view on the other side. Then, turn around and you’ll find a bonus: Turret Arch. While it doesn’t dominate the landscape the way The Windows do, Turret Arch is a great place to get your picture taken standing underneath the arch.

Well, Arches, it’s been real, but it’s nearly mid-day, so it’s time to head over to Canyonlands.

Canyonlands National Park: An Island in the Sky

The main entrance to Canyonlands National Park is about a half hour north of Arches National Park. Driving into Canyonlands for the first time felt an awful lot like the first time I visited the Grand Canyon. After a beautiful drive across the plateau, you arrive at the entrance station. A short distance from the entrance station, you get your first view of the canyon. And you realize right away why they call it Island in the Sky.

View Atop Island in the Sky at Canyonlands National Park, Utah

Like Grand Canyon, the Colorado River is responsible for carving Canyonlands National Park out of the surrounding plateau. Canyonlands also is broken into two areas. However, you’ll notice a few distinct differences. First, Canyonlands is much shallower and much wider than Grand Canyon. Second, it’s much less crowded, and you can actually drive down to the river. It’s a primitive dirt road through gnarly backcountry, but that’s a story for another day.

Canyonlands’ Grand Overview

The road into Canyonlands National Park ends at Grand View Point, about 12 miles (19 km) from the Visitor’s Center. I recommend you start there for two reasons. First, it’s the best view in the whole park. Grand View Point features 270-degree views of the surrounding canyons. Second, by starting at Grand View Point and working your way back to the Visitor’s Center, you’ll be able to see the whole park if you run out of time.

A Different Perspective Around Every Corner

One of my favorite aspects of my trips to Grand Canyon National Park is that for all of the pulloffs and lookouts it has, each one has a different perspective of the canyon. Canyonlands is the exact same. I stopped at every overlook I could find, and they photos simply speak for themselves.

Take an Excursion Down Upheaval Dome Road

About half way between the Visitor’s Center and Grand View Point, you’ll find the turnoff for Upheaval Dome Road. Along the road, you’ll find numerous hiking opportunities, as well as plenty of pullouts, overlooks, and beautiful scenery. I hiked short distances down both the Upheaval Dome and Whale Rock trails, but the windy, cold, and raw weather made longer hikes rather unpleasant. I guess that’s just another excuse to return to Canyonlands in the future.

The sun going in and out of the clouds did, however, make for some spectacular lighting in both photos and videos. The sun shines through the clouds like a spotlight on the landscape, bathing the jagged landscape in a beautiful, warm light. Again, here, I’ll just let the photos tell the story.

A Deserted Mesa Arch will Make Even The Most Seasoned Instagrammers Jealous

Mesa Arch is the most popular photo spot in Canyonlands National Park. Sought after by everyone from professional landscape photographers to social media influencers, Mesa Arch is best known for its sunrise photo ops. In fact, it’s so popular that there is actually a sign there telling people not to take too much time taking photos at the arch itself so that other people have a chance to take pictures as well.

One of the biggest perks of being at both Arches and Canyonlands National Parks in early December is that you’re there at the peak of the offseason. As a result, I had both parks to pretty much myself. Even at the most popular hiking trails, there may be two or three other cars in the parking lot, but other than that, it was completely empty. And best of all, this is what Mesa Arch looked like. Just admit it. I know you’re jealous.

Not a Single Person at Mesa Arch in Canyonlands National Park

Sunset at Canyonlands

As I made my way down the hill back to the Mesa Arch trailhead, the western sky was starting to clear. Conditions weren’t quite as perfect as they had been at Arches that morning, but if they held, sunset would be spectacular. Not wanting to repeat the same mistake two days in a row, I knew exactly where I wanted to go photograph the Canyonlands sunset: the Green River Overlook. And best of all, it’s only about a three-minute drive from the Mesa Arch trailhead.

I got to the Green River Overlook at about 4:15 PM for a 5 PM sunset. Conditions still looked really good for sunset. However, I knew from my training in meteorology that it was pretty much a flip of a coin whether it would hold on long enough to give us a beautiful sunset. And while everything aligned perfectly that morning for the sunrise at Arches, this one unfortunately went the other way.

By about 4:35 PM, thick clouds had rolled in, covering the western sky. You just knew those clouds were there to stay. There would be no spectacular Canyonlands sunset that day, as thick clouds just kept rolling in. But they couldn’t take away the spectacular view at the overlook.

Green River Overlook at Canyonlands National Park

Even though the sunset didn’t work out, it was impossible to drive back to Moab fully dejected. It had been an incredible day-and-a-half exploring Arches and Canyonlands National Parks. Plus, I still the southern (Needles) part of Canyonlands to look forward to the next day. I ended the day with some really good Thai food in Moab. Basil chicken with some of the best hot chili sauce I’ve ever had.

Day 3: The Rest of Canyonlands Leads to a Couple Unexpected Surprises

On my final morning in Utah, I woke up to a very unexpected surprise. Winter Storm Warnings were up for most of east-central and southeastern Utah. Parts of San Juan County, which sits just south of Moab, could see heavy blowing snow and up to 8 inches of accumulation. It had my attention.

While conditions were fine in Moab itself, I knew that things could be much different once you get south of town, where you climb from from about 4,000 feet up to 7,000 feet in elevation. Further complicating the matter, the only route available to get back to Arizona took me right through the heart of the Winter Storm Warning. Conditions would only deteriorate as the morning went along, so I didn’t waste any time getting on the road heading south.

The Needles District of Canyonlands National Park

While Island in the Sky and Needles – the two districts of Canyonlands National Park – sit just across the canyon from each other, the two entrances are about 70 miles (113 km) apart. Because of its proximity to Moab and better views of the canyon, Island in the Sky sees far more visitors than the Needles district. Needles is generally considered to be much more rustic and remote than Island in the Sky. It’s the same phenomenon you see in the South vs North Rims of the Grand Canyon.

As luck would have it, the majority of the Needles district was north of the Winter Storm Warning. However, as I approached the turnoff, it became very clear that the turnoff that went to the entrance of the Needles District was far enough south that it fell within the Winter Storm Warning. By the time I got to the turnoff, light snow had begun falling, and gusty winds were starting to pick up. There was also a sign stating that the road into the Needles District of Canyonlands National Park was closed due to the incoming snowstorm. So I begrudgingly continued south.

Light Snow Blows Across US-191 Ahead of a Winter Storm near Monticello, Utah

A Second Unexpected Surprise Checks off Another Bucket List Item

By the time I rolled into the town of Blanding in southeastern Utah, I was through the Winter Storm Warning, but I still didn’t know what I wanted to do as. an alternative to Canyonlands. I knew that the very least, I wanted to go take photos of the rock that gave the town of Mexican Hat its name. In addition, I also planned to stop at the famous movie spot north of Monument Valley where they filmed the scene in which Forrest Gump stopped running.

Valley of the Gods: Checking Off Another Bucket List Item

As I made my way towards Mexican Hat, a small sign on the side of the road caught my eye. That sign was for Valley of the Gods Road, with an arrow pointing off into the desert. Holy crap! That’s the perfect alternative for Canyonlands. Driving through the Valley of the Gods had been on my bucket list ever since I moved to Arizona. I had hoped to drive it on my trip through southern Utah in 2017, but I had my parents with me then. We simply didn’t have enough time to drive it. Furthermore, my mom and dad didn’t want to go bouncing down a dirt road for two hours.

As you turn down Valley of the Gods Road, there are huge signs warning you that the road becomes impassable when wet, even with four wheel drive. And with that winter storm just to the north, rain was a very real possibility. With the last fleeting bar of cell service, I tried to pull up the nearest radar, which was in Grand Junction, Colorado. No signal. I tried and tried again. Still no signal. Finally, the radar image appeared. Rain was just on the other side of the mesa that formed the western boundary of the Valley of the Gods. It couldn’t have been more than 15 or 20 miles (25 to 32 km) away, and it was heading straight at me.

Will the Rain Hold Off or Render the Road Impassable?

My background in meteorology gave me a gut feeling that the mesa would likely be tall enough to wring all of the rain out of the clouds, preventing it from reaching the Valley of the Gods. A closer look at the radar showed that the line of rain was struggling to push east as it approached the mesa.

I was this close to checking off another bucket list item, plus had just gotten stuffed up at Canyonlands. I didn’t come all this way just to go home empty-handed. So I took the gamble that the mesa would keep the rain at bay. And boy, was it ever worth it. I did not see a drop of rain in the nearly three hours I was in Valley of the Gods.

Conclusion

By far, the best part about visiting national parks like Arches and Canyonlands in the offseason is that you basically have the entire park to yourself. If you can tolerate the cold, damp, raw, and even snow, you’re bound to have a fantastic time. And that goes for not just Arches and Canyonlands, but for National Parks across Utah and the rest of the west. Having now visited all of the “Big 5” National Parks in Utah, it only intensifies the drive to return to the parks, dive much deeper into them, and be able to fully experience and explore everything the Utah National Parks have to offer. This time, I just hope it will take shorter than 5 years to make it back there.

Top Photo: The sun begins to rise at Arches National Park
Moab, Utah – December, 2021

The post Arches and Canyonlands: A Remarkable Two Day Adventure to Northern Utah National Parks appeared first on Matthew Gove Blog.

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How to Experience History on the Oregon Trail in Nebraska https://blog.matthewgove.com/2022/02/25/how-to-experience-history-on-the-oregon-trail-in-nebraska/ Fri, 25 Feb 2022 16:00:00 +0000 https://blog.matthewgove.com/?p=3974 Starting in the 1830’s, Nebraska became the first major challenge to wagon trains heading west along the Oregon Trail. Featuring steep ascents and descents, river crossings, and extreme weather, it tested emigrants with a little bit of everything. Today, many of the Oregon Trail’s original landmarks remain not just in […]

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Starting in the 1830’s, Nebraska became the first major challenge to wagon trains heading west along the Oregon Trail. Featuring steep ascents and descents, river crossings, and extreme weather, it tested emigrants with a little bit of everything. Today, many of the Oregon Trail’s original landmarks remain not just in Nebraska, but across its entire route to Oregon.

While Interstate 80 follows the Oregon Trail’s approximate route across the majority of Nebraska, you’ll need to get off the Interstate to fully immerse yourself in an incredible piece of American history. You’ll literally be walking over the exact same spots the wagon trains followed over 180 years ago. And if that’s not enough, you can still see and wagon ruts at many landmarks across Nebraska, Wyoming, and Idaho. And on this trip, you’ll actually be able to walk right along side them.

Overview

You’ll want to start your day either in Lincoln or Omaha and head west along Interstate 80. Along the way, you’ll stop at forts, hills, springs, and rivers. Your journey will cover nearly 500 miles (800 km) of the Oregon Trail from one end of Nebraska to the other.

As you set off for your journey west, take that first hour once you get west of Lincoln to truly appreciate just how endless, open, and expansive the Nebraska prairie is. Put yourself in the shoes of the settlers and emigrants traveling the Oregon Trail. Imagine what they were thinking seeing that prairie for the first time. What did you think when you saw the endless prairie for the first time?

A Word About Nebraska’s Weather

When you plan your Oregon Trail trip across Nebraska, be aware that Nebraska’s weather can be extreme and volatile at times. Summer temperatures routinely exceed 90 to 95°F (32 to 35°C). In the winter, sub-zero temperatures are common. Average low temperatures across the state drop to 10 to 15°F (-12 to -9°C) at their coldest point. Furthermore, snow and wind can cause blizzards that can paralyze the state.

Finally, don’t forget about the state’s location in Tornado Alley. Tornado season in Nebraska peaks in the late spring, from May to early June. When you come to Nebraska, make sure you plan and dress accordingly for the weather conditions you’ll likely experience.

Buy a Nebraska State Parks Entry Permit

Several of your stops on this Oregon Trail road trip are at Nebraska State Parks. To enter the state parks, you’ll need to buy an entry permit from the state, either online or at the park. You can buy daily or annual passes. Passes will get you into all of the Nebraska State Parks for either the day or the year, so you don’t need to buy a pass at every park you visit. In addition, as of the time this article was published, all National Park facilities along your route route do not charge entry fees.

Prepare for Your Journey at Fort Kearny

Fort Kearny was the first fort settlers on both the Oregon and California Trails reached on their journey west. The U.S. Army established the fort in 1848 to protect emigrants from the threat of Native American attacks. Today, Fort Kearny is one of Nebraska’s State and Historical Parks. You will need to buy an entry permit either online or at the park before going off to explore the fort.

Fort Kearny itself is located just across the river from the town of Kearney on State Route 50A. It’s easily accessible from Exits 279 or 272 on I-80. At the fort, you can partake in several outdoor activities.

  • Watch an interpretive video about the history of the fort and its relationship with nature
  • Tour reconstructed buildings and see live re-enactments of what life was like at the fort during the heyday of the Oregon Trail
  • Hike or bike the nature trail. Fort Kearny is along a major sandhill crane migration route and is a haven for birdwatchers during the migration.
  • Visit the nearby Fort Kearny Recreation Area for even more outdoor activities.
Fort Kearny was the first stopover for emigrants on the Oregon Trail.
Fort Kearney State Historical Park

For the most immersive experience, you’ll want to visit during the warmer months when everything is open. On the other hand, if you visit in the winter, having the entire park to yourself can be magical.

Hike California Hill, the First Major Ascent on the Oregon Trail

Ascending 240 feet in about a mile and a half, California Hill presented the first topographical challenge for westbound wagon trains. Near the town of North Platte, Nebraska, the Platte river forks into the North Platte and South Platte rivers. After the fork, the Oregon Trail follows the North Platte River across western Nebraska and into Wyoming.

Because the Oregon Trail started in Missouri, wagon trains went along the south shores of the Platte River east of the fork. But here’s the dilemma. The easiest crossing of the South Platte River meant that you had to go over California Hill. The alternate route passed over relatively flat terrain, but the river crossing was far more perilous. As a result, many wagon trains opted for California Hill as the safer option.

How to Access the Trailhead at the Base of California Hill

Today, California Hill has some of the best-preserved wagon ruts on the entire Oregon Trail. Unfortunately, online directions to the hill itself are inaccurate at best and misleading at worst. From the town of Brule, Nebraska, head west on US-30. About 4.5 miles (7.2 km) west of town, you’ll see a pull off on the side of the road with the historical marker for California Hill. However, if you want to hike up California Hill or simply get the best view of it, you’re still in the wrong place.

At the historical marker, you’ll see a dirt road that heads north from US-30. Follow that dirt road north for about a quarter mile or so, and park in the small cutout on the left side of the road. There are no signs or anything for parking, but it’s the only cutout along the whole stretch of road. There are small placards for both the Oregon and California Trails nailed to the fence. It’s not well noted, but the National Park Service owns the land here, which is open to the public.

Placards marking the Oregon Trail and California Trail are nailed to a fence at the California Hill parking area.
Oregon and California Trail Placards at the Parking Area at California Hill

Experience Some of the Most Well-Preserved Wagon Ruts on the Entire Oregon Trail

Walk through the cut in the fence and follow the tire tracks up the hill. The initial tire tracks you see are modern, but you’ll quickly pass by some old cow troughs and under some power lines. As soon as you’re under the power lines, everything you see from that point onward are the wagon ruts from the Oregon Trail. Most of these ruts are between 150 and 180 years old. While you’re welcome to walk to the top of California hill, the best wagon ruts are only about 1,000 feet (300 m) from the parking area.

See More Wagon Ruts Where Emigrants Locked Their Wheels to Descend Windlass Hill

Just 20 miles from California Hill is the first major descent on the Oregon Trail, and the steepest descent in Nebraska. Windlass Hill marked the transition from the high table lands of western Nebraska down into the North Platte River Valley.

Despite Nebraska’s reputation as being largely flat, Windlass Hill is mind-numbingly steep – about 50% steeper than the steepest hills in San Francisco. Wagons had to descend a 25° angle, or 47% grade, for about 300 feet (100 m). For comparison, the steepest grades on major U.S. highways are usually between 6 and 8%. Because Windlass Hill is so steep, most wagon trains simply locked their wheels and dragged the wagons down the hill.

While it was an effective method to control the wagons on the descent, locking the wheels left deep scars in the landscape, which are still clearly visible today. And unlike California Hill, the wagon ruts on Windlass Hill are clearly visible from the parking lot.

Wagon ruts are carved into the landscape where emigrants descended Windlass Hill on the Oregon Trail in Nebraska.
Wagon Ruts on the Steepest Part of Windlass Hill

However, to completely immerse yourself in the history, hike the 0.6 mile (1 km) round trip paved trail to the top of the hill. You’ll quickly discover that the wagon ruts on the top of Windlass Hill are not the deepest scar in the landscape. Not even close. It’s the deep gorge at the bottom of the hill as you transition into the valley. You’ll cross a bridge over the gorge about 150 feet or so after you leave the parking lot.

Wagon trains on the Oregon Trail carved a gorge in the landscape as they descended Windlass Hill.
Gorge Made by Wagon Trains on the Oregon Trail in the 1800s

Interestingly, at first glance, the gorge looks like a natural feature, but the exact opposite is true. The gorge is 100% man-made and would not exist had the Oregon Trail not run through there. It is the result of wagon trains with locked wheels passing over the same area for 50 years.

When you return to the parking lot after the hike, have a look across the valley. You’ll see several sets of wagon ruts going up and over the next hill and down into Ash Hollow.

Wagon ruts on the Oregon Trail between Windlass Hill and Ash Hollow
Wagon Ruts Across the Valley from Windlass Hill Going Towards Ash Hollow

Ash Hollow Spring: An Oasis on a Arid Prairie

Water was a precious resource along the Oregon Trail. While the Platte River is a logical source of water for the Oregon Trail route across Nebraska, heavy traffic often contaminated the water in the river. That’s why Ash Hollow Spring was such an oasis for westbound wagon trains. In fact, Ash Hollow was so precious that Native Americans fought bitterly over the spring for centuries before the white man first arrived in the early 1800’s.

Ash Hollow gave emigrants a source of pure, clean spring water. As a result, Ash Hollow was a popular “rest area” on the Oregon Trail. Settlers often camped at the spring for a few days to rest up and recharge before continuing on their journey west.

The Ash Hollow Spring provided a source of fresh, pure drinking water for emigrants on the Oregon Trail.
Ash Hollow Spring

Ash Hollow is located right off of US-26, about 2.5 miles (4 km) northwest of Windlass Hill. Once you’re in the park, take the first left onto an unmarked dirt road. That dirt road will end after short distance at a picnic area. Park at the end of the road and walk across the picnic area to Ash Hollow Spring. Sit on one of the benches and enjoy the peaceful tranquility, or walk along the edge of the spring. And keep your eyes peeled. There’s plenty of wildlife to see in the area.

Finally, don’t forget to enjoy the rest of Ash Hollow State Historical Park. At the very least, drive up to the top of the bluff and take in the breathtaking view of the surrounding prairies and hills. There is a visitor’s center and museum up there, too. However, they were both closed when I was there due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

Take in the Breathtaking Vistas from Courthouse and Jail Rocks

Originally called McFarlane’s Castle, Courthouse and Jail Rocks were the first major rock landmarks for westbound settlers. Marking the point where the major trunks of the Oregon and California Trails merged, the massive presence of Courthouse Rock caused many people who passed it to liken it to a castle or court. Records of using Courthouse and Jail Rocks as a landmark date back as early as the fur traders that charted the original Oregon Trail around 1810.

From a geologic standpoint, Courthouse and Jail Rocks give you a glimpse into the ancient plateau that once towered over what is now western Nebraska. Over thousands of years, wind and water have slowly eroded the plateau. It left behind several stunning monoliths across western Nebraska that became famous landmarks along the Oregon Trail. Can you think of any others? Chimney Rock is one that immediately comes to mind.

Late afternoon sun casts warm light on Courthouse and Jail Rocks
Courthouse and Jail Rocks

Courthouse and Jail Rocks are located along State Route 88 about 4 miles (7 km) south of Bridgeport, Nebraska. The rocks tower over the surrounding landscape, so they are quite hard to miss. When you get close to the rocks, turn right onto a dirt road called Road 81. It’s not terribly well marked other than a small Oregon Trail placard at the entrance to the road. In good weather, the road is easily passable in a standard passenger car. Park at the end of the road, hike the short loop around Courthouse and Jail Rock, and take in the breathtaking vistas of the surrounding prairies.

Chimney Rock: The Most Famous Oregon Trail Landmark

I don’t know about you, but the one landmark I really remember from playing the Oregon Trail game as a kid is Chimney Rock. Like Courthouse and Jail Rocks, Chimney Rock is one of the most famous rock landmarks on the entire Oregon Trail. And it didn’t just provide a very recognizable landmark for the Oregon Trail. Westbound settlers on the California Trail and the Mormon Trail also used Chimney Rock as a critical landmark.

Shortly after leaving Bridgeport on US-26 going west, Chimney Rock should come into view way off in the distance. From this vantage point, you can see why it was such a world famous landmark. Even in a car at 65 mph, you can see it for at least 15 minutes before you get to the turnoff. On a wagon train, it would be visible for at least a day or two. You have to try really hard to miss it.

Oregon Trail settlers could see Chimney Rock from miles away.
Approaching Chimney Rock on US-26

Thankfully, access is both easy and well-signed. Chimney Rock is located just south of the junction of US-26 and SR-92 near Bayard, Nebraska. Regardless of where you’re coming from, just follow the signs for Chimney Rock. It’s really that easy. In addition to the beautiful landscapes, there is a Visitor’s Center, museum, cemetery, and hiking trails at Chimney Rock.

There are a few things to keep in mind for your Chimney Rock photography and videos. The only roads and viewpoints to it look west, so mornings offer the best light for photographing Chimney Rock. The viewpoint at the end of the road and the hiking trails offer the best photo opps.

However, if you’re there in mid-December like I was, you can also take advantage of the low sun angles in the afternoon. From the lookout area, once the sun disappears behind the nearby bluff, it still bathes Chimney Rock in a beautiful low, warm light. You actually get a bit of an extended Golden Hour before sunset that is simply divine.

The setting sun bathes Chimney Rock in a warm light
Low Afternoon Sunlight Glows on Chimney Rock in the Late Afternoon in Mid-December, 2021

End Your Oregon Trail Journey Across Nebraska Taking in Sunset at Scottsbluff National Monument

Towering 800 feet over the North Platte River, Scott’s Bluff is a fitting place to end your Oregon Trail road trip across Nebraska. The bluff was another key landmark for settlers along the Oregon, California, and Mormon Trails, as well as the Native Americans. The wagon ruts have unfortunately eroded over time, but you can still walk about half a mile of the actual Oregon Trail within the National Monument.

If you want to drive up the bluff, make sure to arrive at least 30 to 45 minutes prior to sunset, as the road closes shortly before sunset. However, I find that your best photo and video opportunities actually come from down near the Visitor’s Center. Take advantage of the Golden Hour as the setting sun lights up the bluff in brilliant shades of yellows, oranges, and reds.

From Scottsbluff National Monument, it’s a quick drive back into town for accommodations for the night. In Scottsbluff, you’re only about 20 miles (30 km) from the Wyoming border. As a result, you’ll be in perfect position to continue your Oregon Trail journey west into Wyoming the next day.

Conclusion

Taking a road trip along the Oregon Trail route across Nebraska is one of the most interactive ways to immerse yourself in American history. You’ll literally be passing over the same terrain and seeing the same sights that the westbound settlers experienced nearly 200 years ago. While modern amenities have made the journey today far safer and more comfortable, I hope you’ll get an appreciation for the sacrifices and hardships so many emigrants encountered as they chased a better life in the west. Have you driven any of the Oregon Trail across Nebraska? Please feel free to share your experiences in the comments below.

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Top Photo: Wagon Ruts are Carved into the Side of California Hill
Brule, Nebraska – December, 2021

The post How to Experience History on the Oregon Trail in Nebraska appeared first on Matthew Gove Blog.

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Weird Geography: 10 Bizarre and Unusual Facts About China https://blog.matthewgove.com/2022/02/18/weird-geography-10-bizarre-and-unusual-facts-about-china/ Fri, 18 Feb 2022 16:00:00 +0000 https://blog.matthewgove.com/?p=4008 In China, Beijing just accomplished the rare feat of becoming the first city to host both the Summer and Winter Olympics. China has a long, rich history and culture that far too many people misunderstand. With China hosting the Winter Olympics this year, it seemed only fitting to look at […]

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In China, Beijing just accomplished the rare feat of becoming the first city to host both the Summer and Winter Olympics. China has a long, rich history and culture that far too many people misunderstand. With China hosting the Winter Olympics this year, it seemed only fitting to look at the more weird and bizarre side of its geography. Let’s get going.

1. China Borders 14 Countries, and Has Territorial Disputes with All of Them

Amazingly, the territorial disputes don’t end there. China has numerous additional territorial disputes with countries it doesn’t even border. Most of these disputes are maritime, and include countries such as Indonesia, South Korea, and Singapore.

Back on the mainland, China shares a border with 14 other countries. The only other country in the world that borders that many countries is Russia, which also borders 14 other countries. In alphabetical order, those 14 countries that border China are:

  1. Afghanistan
  2. Bhutan
  3. India
  4. Kazakhstan
  5. Kyrgyzstan
  6. Laos
  7. Mongolia
  8. Myanmar
  9. Nepal
  10. North Korea
  11. Pakistan
  12. Russia
  13. Tajikistan
  14. Vietnam

2. China’s Longest Border is with Mongolia, not Russia

Because Mongolia sits wedged between China and Russia, it comprises China’s longest land border. At 4,630 km (2,877 mi), the China-Mongolia border is the fourth longest land border in the world. Only the Argentina-Chile, Russia-Kazakhstan, and US-Canada borders are longer. On the other hand, China’s shortest border is its disputed border with Pakistan. That border is only 320 km (200 mi) long.

BorderLength (km)Length (mi)
Canada – United States8,893 km5,526 mi
Russia – Kazakhstan7,644 km4,750 mi
Chile – Argentina6,691 km4,158 mi
China – Mongolia4,630 km2,877 mi

3. Both the Highest Point, Highest Plateau, and Highest Border Crossing in the World are Located in China

The Himalayas form China’s southwest frontier with Nepal, India, Pakistan, and Bhutan. Home to all fourteen 8,000 meter peaks, the Himalayas are the tallest mountain range in the world. At 8,893 meters (29,032 feet) above sea level, the summit of Mount Everest is the highest point in the world. And that summit forms part of the border between Nepal and China.

The Top of the World

Unlike Nepal’s multi-day trek, you can actually drive directly to Everest base camp on the Tibet side on a well-maintained paved road. However, it’s a much easier climb to the summit on the Nepal side, which is why most climbers start their journey up Everest in Kathmandu, and not in Lhasa.

The Roof of the World

North of Everest, you’ll find the Tibetan Plateau covers much of southwest China, and even stretches into several neighboring countries. Stretching roughly 2.5 million square kilometers (970,000 square miles), the Tibetan Plateau is both the largest and highest plateau in the world.

At an average elevation of 4,000 meters (13,123 feet), it has earned its nickname “The Roof of the World”. Sitting in the shadow of Everest, the Tibetan capital, Lhasa, is the highest capital city in the world. Lhasa checks in at a whopping 3,658 meters (12,000 feet) above sea level. For comparison, that’s roughly the same elevation of the Continental Divide at Loveland Pass (US-6) in Colorado, and about 300 meters (1,000 feet) higher than the highest point on Interstate 70.

While much of the plateau is arid desert and tundra, you will find several lakes dotted amongst the rugged landscape. Interestingly, these lakes are far from the highest lakes in the world. You’ll find most of the world’s highest lakes in the Andes mountains in South America.

The Highest Border Crossing in the World

Completed in 1982, the highway across Khunjerab Pass marks the highest paved border crossing in the world. Connecting Hunza, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China, Khunjerab Pass sits at 4,693 meters (15,397 feet) above sea level. Interestingly, the pass is long and relatively flat, making it both one of the most scenic drives in the world and a popular choice for trucks to cross between Pakistan and China. However, heavy snow can close the pass any time of year, making it a potentially treacherous journey for even the most seasoned adventurers.

4. China Has Only One Time Zone

One of the most fascinating oddities about China is the fact that despite it being roughly the same size as the United States, it only has one time zone. Not surprisingly, that one time zone is optimized for China’s capital, Beijing. If the United States did this, cities such as Los Angeles, San Francisco, and Seattle would be observing Eastern Time instead of Pacific Time.

As a result, in the City of Urumqi in far western China, sunrises and sunsets are at unusual times. Near the summer solstice, the sun rises at 8:30 AM and sets at 11:45 PM. Likewise, in the winter, daylight runs As a result, Urumqi unofficially sets their clocks 2 hours behind Beijing, but the time zone can still be confusing to visitors.

If that’s enough, China having one time zone causes some unusual time changes when you cross its western borders. For example, if you cross from China into Afghanistan at Wakhjir Pass, the Afghani side will be three and half hours behind the Chinese side. That is actually the largest official time difference between two sides of any land border in the world.

However, that’s far from the most drastic time change across international borders. You may recall that the Diomede Islands sit just 4 km (2.5 mi) apart, but have a 21-hour time difference thanks to the maritime border between the United States and Russia running between them.

5. 28% of China is Desert…and that Figure is Growing

The Gobi Desert, which covers southern Mongolia and northern China, is responsible for the vast majority of China’s desert. The Gobi is best known for its sand dunes, rare wildlife, and cold temperatures. However, the Gobi Desert’s dunes are migrating south at roughly 2 miles (4.5 km) per year. Like the Indiana Dunes, they swallow everything in their path, including towns. And they’re training their crosshairs on a much bigger target. The nearest dunes are now only about 44 miles (71 km) from Beijing.

To combat the rapid desertification, China is attempting to build a 2,800 mile long “Great Green Wall” of trees to halt the Gobi Desert’s southward creep. While the Great Green Wall has slowed the dunes progress in some areas since the first trees were planted in 1978, the Gobi continues to march south unimpeded across much of the landscape.

Additionally, much of the Tibetan Plateau is classified as a desert. A rain shadow from the Himalayas is the reason that both the Tibetan Plateau desert and the Gobi Desert exist. Interestingly, China’s deserts are among the largest cold weather deserts in the world outside of the polar regions. Winter temperatures in the Gobi routinely drop to -40°C (-40°F). But don’t let the cold weather part fool you. Average high temperatures in the Gobi summer can reach 45°C (113°F).

6. The Great Wall of China Does not Actually Mark any of China’s Current Borders

Originally built to protect ancient Chinese states and Imperial China from nomadic tribes in present-day Mongolia, the Great Wall of China is the largest man-made structure on earth. It stretches endlessly for 21,196 km (13,171 mi) across much of northern China. If you stretched that out in a straight line, it would go half way around the world. Construction of the wall took nearly 3,000 years.

The Great Wall of China did once mark China’s northern border. The Ming Dynasty built over 8,000 km (5,000 mi) on its northern border, which at the time ran just north of Beijing, between 1368 and 1644. Once the Ming Dynasty fell, the Qing Dynasty rose to power. By 1912, they had expanded China’s territory to include all of what’s present-day China and Mongolia. Today, the Great Wall marks an incredible piece of history and engineering, but has no significance to China’s current borders.

7. Despite Having the World’s Largest Population, Over 60% of China is Uninhabited

Much of that 60% is uninhabitable due to extreme climate. For example, the Tibetan Plateau is an empty, arid, and rugged landscape. Its high altitude and extreme temperatures make it incredibly difficult for all but the heartiest of creatures to survive. Most of the rest of western China is cold desert. Because China’s economy is so heavily reliant on agricultural exports, cold temperatures and the lack of precipitation renders much of the west useless for farming and agriculture. You simply cannot generate sufficient economic output from the western lands.

The Heihe-Tengchong Line marks several stark divides between eastern and western China. Most notably, 94% of China’s 1.4 billion people – the largest population in the world – lives in the 40% of China east of the Heihe-Tengchong Line.

China's Heihe-Tengchong Line on a map
China’s Heihe-Tengchong Line

The Heihe-Tengchong Line also starkly divides other demographics, climatology, and geographies.

ParameterWest of LineEast of Line
SoilArid and SandyFertile
PrecipitationDryWet
ElevationHighLow
TemperatureColdTemperate
TerrainRugged MountainsHills, Valleys, and Plains
ClimatePlateau and MountainTropical and Temperate Monsoon
Primary LanguageNon-SiniticSinitic (Traditional Chinese)
Population6%94%
Divisions Along the Heihe-Tengchong Line

8. General Tso was a Real Person

Zuo Zongtang was a highly respected Chinese statesman from Hunan province. He was also one of the top military men of the Qing Dynasty, which ruled China from 1644 to 1912. His greatest accomplishment was helping the Qing Dyansty beat back the Taiping Rebellion, a bloody civil war that raged across China in the mid-1800’s. He is said to be to China what General Sherman was to the United States.

But unlike General Sherman, Zuo Zongtang is not known for his military accomplishments. In fact, most people couldn’t tell you when he was alive, or even which wars he fought in. That’s because in the modern era, Zuo Zongtang is most associated with something he had no connection to when he was alive. Zuo Zongtang is much better known as General Tso.

When General Tso died in 1885, it would still be 70 years before the tasty chicken dish that’s associated with his name came into being. In the 1950’s Chef Peng Chang-kuei served the first General Tso’s Chicken dish to Chinese Nationals who had fled to Taiwan after China fell to Mao Zedong. Chef Peng was born and raised in the same town as Zuo Zongtang, and decided to name the chicken dish after him. Peng eventually immigrated to New York City in 1973. He brought the General Tso’s Chicken recipe with him. Once the dish hit the United States, it took off, and the rest is history. Today, there are more Chinese restaurants in the United States than all of the McDonald’s, KFCs, Pizza Huts, Taco Bells and Wendy’s combined.

9. China’s Train System is so Extensive its Railways Could Wrap Around the Earth…Nearly Four Times

There are over 150,000 kilometers (91,000 miles) of operational railways in China. Today, over 40,000 km (25,000 mi) of those railways are for high-speed trains. Unlike the United States, most of China’s freight moves by train, which is why China’s rail network is so extensive. A long term plan expands the rail network to 274,000 km (170,000 mi) by 2050.

So let’s dive into the math. The earth’s circumference is 40,000 kilometers, or 25,000 miles.

150,000 km / 40,000 km = 3.75 times around the Earth

10. China has Two “Flipper Bridges”, Where You Switch From Driving on the Right to Driving on the Left

Have you ever crossed an international border where traffic switches from driving on the right to driving on the left, or vice versa? Sure, it’s easy to handle at some of the hole-in-the-wall border crossings in rural Africa where so few cars pass through.

In instances where there are more cars, you can use a traffic light to cross the traffic over to the other side of the road. That’s exactly what they do at the Thai-Lao Friendship bridge. Inbound traffic into Vientaine, the Lao Capital, must cross from driving on the left in Thailand to driving on the right in Laos. A traffic light controls the crossover right before you reach the Lao port of entry. In the map below, the crossover is right above the “ST Vegas” icon in the center of the map.

Traffic Crossover Entering Vientaine, Laos from Nong Khai, Thailand

But what if you’re trying to link two major cities in a heavy traffic area? China has exactly this problem, not once, but twice. While mainland China drives on the right side of the road, both Hong Kong and Macau drive on the left. The bridges from China to both Hong Kong and Macau are called “flipper bridges” because they flip which side of the road the traffic drives on. The older bridges use a series of loop-de-loops to switch sides, while the newer bridges simply bring one side of the road underneath the other.

The bridge linking mainland China (left) with Macau (right)

A New Multi-Flipper Bridge

In October, 2018, the new Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macau Bridge opened. Spanning 55 km (34 mi) over the ocean, it’s the longest oversea bridge in the world. Furthermore, the bridge doesn’t just link two points. It links three: Mainland China, Macau, and Hong Kong. If you were designing this bridge, how would you handle the traffic and which side of the road it drives on?

To stay in line with mainland China, traffic on the Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macau bridge drives on the right. Just before traffic enters Macau and Hong Kong, the inbound traffic is brought underneath the outbound traffic. That way, traffic is driving on the left as it enters Macau and Hong Kong.

Conclusion

China is one of the most fascinating, yet misunderstood countries out there. From switching what side of the road you drive on to only having one time zone to the roof of the world, there’s a geographic oddity for everyone. While China rightfully gets a lot of criticism for its censorship and repression today, I think we could all use a lesson in its lengthy, rich, and captivating history. It tells an incredible story of how China got to where it is today. Have you ever traveled to China and experienced one of these oddities? Let us know in the comments below.

Top Photo: Snow-Capped Sierra Nevada
South Lake Tahoe, California – February, 2020

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Indiana Dunes: One of America’s Most Underrated National Parks https://blog.matthewgove.com/2022/01/28/indiana-dunes-one-of-americas-most-underrated-national-parks/ Fri, 28 Jan 2022 16:00:00 +0000 https://blog.matthewgove.com/?p=3644 I’m gonna go out on a limb here and say when you think of visiting sugary white sand beaches and turquoise waters in December, the shores of Lake Michigan are probably not the first thing that comes to mind. But that’s exactly where I found myself, exploring Indiana Dunes National […]

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I’m gonna go out on a limb here and say when you think of visiting sugary white sand beaches and turquoise waters in December, the shores of Lake Michigan are probably not the first thing that comes to mind. But that’s exactly where I found myself, exploring Indiana Dunes National Park on a beautiful, but chilly December day. Established in February 2019, Indiana Dunes is one of America’s newest National Parks, and also one of its most diverse and underrated. And best of all, it’s one of the few National Parks that does not charge an admission fee.

Update: Beginning 31 March, 2022, Indiana Dunes National Park will charge $25 per vehicle to enter the park.

A Brief History of the Indiana Dunes

In 1899, Henry Chandler Cowles, a botanist at the University of Chicago, began the first movement to preserve what’s now the Indiana Dunes. Cowles’ movement cited the unique flora at the dunes as the reason to preserve the area. The movement rapidly gained momentum. By 1916, the National Parks Service held hearings in Chicago about preserving the area as Sand Dunes National Park.

Unfortunately, local manufacturing plants had discovered that the sand at the Indiana Dunes was ideal for making glass. As a result, the 1916 hearing went nowhere. Glass manufacturing had completely consumed one of the most famous dunes by 1920. Facing backlash from the local residents, the State of Indiana stepped in and designated the area as Indiana Dunes State Park in 1926. You can still see evidence today of the manufacturing that went on at the Indiana Dunes in the early 20th century.

A power plant sits on the shores of Lake Michigan near Indiana Dunes National Park
This power plant seen from Mt. Baldy is a nod to the region’s manufacturing boom in the early 20th century

The federal government didn’t show any interest in the Indiana Dunes until the 1950’s. Preservation efforts ramped up again when a Port of Indiana was proposed to maximize economic development in the area. Activists began a nationwide campaign to buy the land and preserve the dunes. Their efforts were successful. In 1966, the U.S. Congress passed a bill to preserve the area as the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore. Between 1976 and 1992, Congress expanded the national lakeshore four times, bringing it to the size it is today.

In 2017, both senators and representatives from Indiana sponsored a bill to turn the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore into a National Park. While it took a couple years to finally get a vote on the bill, it passed Congress and became law on 15 Feburary, 2019. Indiana had its first National Park.

Where is Indiana Dunes National Park?

Indiana Dunes National Park covers 15 miles (24 km) of shoreline on Lake Michigan between Gary and Michigan City, Indiana. It’s just a 45 minute drive from both downtown Chicago and South Bend. If you’re coming from further away, the dunes are an easy day’s drive from Detroit, Indianapolis, much of Ohio, and even St. Louis.

The Indiana Dunes Can Migrate Up to 18 Feet Per Year…and Swallow Everything in Their Path

Indiana Dunes National Park has some of the most fascinating geology east of the Mississippi. At times, the dunes can behave like a living, breathing creature. In fact, the U.S. Geological Survey makes quite a statement about them on their website.

Dunes in the park are still actively migrating downwind. They move as layer after layer of sand is blown from the front of the dune over to the slipface. The most active dune, Mount Baldy, can move up to 18 feet in a year, swallowing up entire trees as it advances.

U.S. Geological Survey

When I first read that, I thought, “Come on. I get that dunes are always moving, but entire trees? Really?” When I got to Indiana Dunes National Park, Mt. Baldy happened to be my very first stop. When I pulled into the parking lot, this is what I saw. Insert foot into mouth.

The remains of a tree stick up out of the sand after migrating dunes buried it at Indiana Dunes National Park
The downwind migration of Mt. Baldy is quite literally swallowing trees whole.

Interestingly, I continued to notice the dunes just swallowing everything as I made my way through the park. Trees, signs, benches, parking lots. You name it, the dunes were swallowing it. The Indiana Dunes actually remind me a lot of White Sands National Park in New Mexico. Both parks have a lot of fine, sugary sand. Dunes are constantly in motion, advancing and retreating as the wind shifts throughout the year. However, unlike White Sands, the sand at Indiana Dunes National Park does not dissolve in water.

Indiana Dunes National Park Offers Outdoor Activities Year Round

While Indiana Dunes is best known for its summer recreation and relaxation, the park offers an abundance of outdoor activities year round. Don’t discount the shoulder or offseason. There is plenty to do, and the lack of crowds in any National Park makes for a completely immersive and memorable experience.

  • Hiking
  • Biking
  • Swimming and Sunbathing
  • Boating
  • Cross Country Skiing, Snowshoeing, and Sledding
  • View the spectacular shelf ice on Lake Michigan in the winter
  • See beautiful colors in the fall
  • Scenic Drives
  • Birdwatching and Animal Watching
  • Horseback Riding
  • Camping and Picnicking
  • Learn About the History of the Area
The wind leaves ripples in the sand at Indiana Dunes National Park
The Sands of Time are constantly shifting at Indiana Dunes National Park

Take in Breathtaking Views of Lake Michigan

For being in a state that has a reputation of being very flat, the Indiana Dunes offer an incredibly diverse choice of absolutely stunning viewpoints and lookouts over the turquoise waters of Lake Michigan. Hike up to the top of the tallest dunes and paths for stunning panoramic vistas nearly 200 feet above the lake. Alternatively, soak in the sun and scenery from lake level as you walk along the beach or wade in the water. I could go on and on here, but I’ll let the photos speak for themselves.

See Indiana’s Rarest Flora and Fauna

Indiana Dunes is one of the most diverse regions in the United States. The park is home to some of Indiana’s rarest flora, as well as many species of fauna. If you’re looking for a specific species, make sure you know the best season for viewing them before you plan your trip. If you don’t have a specific species in mind, the Indiana Dunes boasts both spectacular fall colors and an incredible variety of wildflowers in the spring. Even when I visited in early December, it’s easy to get caught up and absorbed in nature. There was no shortage of plants and animals to look at in the winter.

Indiana Dunes Photography and Videography Tips

To get the most from your photo or video shoot, you’ll want to spend at least one full day at the park. Take advantage of the Golden Hour at both ends of the day to get some spectacular sunrise and sunset pictures. Let the low light bathe the dunes in vibrant warm colors. During the day, shift your focus to the water. Let the powerful midday sun bring out the best teals, blues, and greens in Lake Michigan. Additionally, go for a hike or a scenic drive to photograph some of the lesser seen parts of the park in the woods, marshes, grasslands, and other surrounding areas.

Furthermore, Indiana Dunes National Park offers so many different stories you can tell through your photos and videos. Whether you’re into nature, history, recreation, or anything else, there’s a story for you to tell. I encourage you to partake in any of the activities we discussed earlier to help you tell your story.

Best Locations to Shoot Photos and Videos

You can take great pictures and videos pretty much anywhere inside Indiana Dunes National Park. But here are my favorite places for a shoot.

  • Mt. Baldy
  • Central Avenue Beach
  • Dunbar Beach
  • Porter Beach
  • Forest scenery along US-12
The Chicago skyline, as seen from Indiana Dunes National Park
Head to the west end of Indiana Dunes National Park for a great view of the Chicago skyline. Hopefully you’ll have less haze to deal with than I did.

Advantages of Visiting in the Winter Offseason

There is one major reason to visit Indiana Dunes National Park during the winter offseason: the lack of crowds. When I visited in early December, there were certainly a few other people out and about, but I largely had the place to myself. You don’t have to worry about traffic or parking, even in places where parking is typically very limited. And being able to shoot photos and videos on a nearly empty beach is simply magical.

Furthermore, the low sun angle in the wintertime makes for some really beautiful light on the dunes for landscape photography. The sun remains high enough in the winter that you can still get shots of the brilliant turquoise, blue, and green waters in the middle of the day. And with sunset being so early, you’ll be done with your sunset shoot long before dinner.

Low winter sun bathes Indiana Dunes National Park in soft, warm light.
Play around with low sun angles in the winter for some beautifully warm and unique photos

Conclusion

Indiana Dunes is one of America’s newest, most diverse, and most underrated National Parks. Regardless of your interests, hobbies, and passions, the park offers outdoor activities, places to explore, and stories to tell for everyone year round. Have you been or are you planning to go? What was your favorite part? What are you most looking forward to? Let us know in the comments below.

Top Photo: The turquoise waters of Lake Michigan shimmer under the brilliant sunlight
Indiana Dunes National Park, Indiana – December, 2021

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How To Have A Safe And Successful Visit To Los Algodones, Mexico During The COVID-19 Pandemic https://blog.matthewgove.com/2022/01/21/how-to-have-a-safe-and-successful-visit-to-los-algodones-mexico-during-the-covid-19-pandemic/ https://blog.matthewgove.com/2022/01/21/how-to-have-a-safe-and-successful-visit-to-los-algodones-mexico-during-the-covid-19-pandemic/#comments Fri, 21 Jan 2022 16:00:00 +0000 https://blog.matthewgove.com/?p=3630 When the US-Mexico border slammed shut at the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic, I worried whether the small border town of Los Algodones would be able to survive just a brief closure. Little did I know at the time that the border closure would last for nearly two years. I’ll […]

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When the US-Mexico border slammed shut at the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic, I worried whether the small border town of Los Algodones would be able to survive just a brief closure. Little did I know at the time that the border closure would last for nearly two years. I’ll be honest with you, I really did fear the worst for what the border closure would do to the local economy not just in Los Algodones, but all of the border towns that line the US-Mexico border. Exactly 900 days since my last visit to Los Algodones in July 2019, I was finally able to return in December, 2021. And I’m happy to report that Los Algodones has not just survived the COVID-19 pandemic. It’s thriving better than I’ve ever seen it.

Why Should You Visit Los Algodones?

As one of the top medical tourist destinations in the world, Los Algodones is a truly unique border town experience. With over 400 dentists packed into a four square block area, it has earned its nickname, Molar City. With dental procedures costing about 10-20% what the do in the United States, both Americans and Canadians flock to Los Algodones year round. While it’s most famous for its dentists, Los Algodones also has one of the highest concentrations of eye doctors and optometrists in the world.

If you’re not into the medical tourism, there’s still plenty of things to do in Los Algodones. You can buy handcrafted goods from the street vendors, eat some delicious Mexican food, and take home the obligatory bottle of tequila. While it’s certainly not as picturesque as places like Puerto Peñasco or the coastal destinations of Baja California and Sonora, rest assured that you’ll have a safe, fun, and memorable time in Los Algodones.

Bustling streets in Los Algodones, Baja California, Mexico during the COVID-19 pandemic
Despite the COVID-19 pandemic, the streets of Los Algodones are as vibrant as they’ve ever been.

Getting to Los Algodones from California, Arizona, and Nevada

Los Algodones sits in the far northeast corner of the State of Baja California, just west of Yuma, Arizona. You can easily get there from the east or west via Interstate 8, or from the north via US-95.

To get to the border crossing into Los Algodones, take Exit 166 in California off of I-8. Turn south onto CA-186. After about a mile (1.6 km), you’ll reach the border. I recommend parking in the Quechan lot on the US side of the border. The Quechan parking lot has remained open during the COVID-19 pandemic, and still costs $6 for the day to park there. You can drive into Mexico if you wish, but the streets of Los Algodones are small and busy, and parking can be very limited there.

To reach Los Algodones, head west on I-8 from Yuma and follow the signs to Mexico

Are There COVID-19 Protocols Crossing the Border into Los Algodones, Mexico?

Mexico has had some of the loosest border restrictions in the world since the pandemic began. As a result, crossing into Los Algodones felt eerily like pre-COVID times. You walk from the parking lot through the turnstile gate, and just walk right into Mexico. There were a few members of the Mexican military stationed near the border watching people enter, but they were not stopping anyone.

I did not have to pass through any checkpoints, temperature checks, or anything else related to COVID-19 entering Los Algodones, Mexico on foot. You do not need to show proof of vaccination or negative test. However, both the U.S. Federal Government and the Government of Canada strongly recommend that their citizens be fully vaccinated before traveling to Mexico. You may be subject to additional COVID-19 related screenings if you cross into Mexico in your vehicle.

Tourists cross into Los Algodones, Mexico from the United States
Entering Los Algodones on foot from the United States is just as simple as it was prior to the COVID-19 pandemic

Stay Safe from COVID-19 While Enjoying Los Algodones

Because nearly all of the Los Algodones experience is outdoors in the open air, you can stay safe from COVID-19 with nothing more than a little common sense. I visited Los Algodones during the explosion of the omicron variant at the end of 2021. Not once did I feel unsafe from COVID-19 during my visit.

Wear a Mask

Unlike much of the United States, the State of Baja California requires that you wear a face mask while inside any building that’s open to the public. Masks are not required outdoors. However, you may find the streets of Algodones to be small, cramped, and crowded. As a result, I recommend that you wear a mask if you’re in a crowded area, even if you’re outside. This is especially true if you’re visiting during the ongoing omicron spike.

So just how strictly are the mask mandates enforced? It depends on exactly where you are. Many of the liquor stores, pharmacies, and indoor restaurants will not let you in without one. On the other hand, the street vendors did not really seem to care whether or not people were masked. But then again, masks are not required outdoors, which is where most of the street vendors operate. I did not go into any of the dental facilities, but my understanding is that they are the strictest at enforcing mask requirements.

Keep Your Distance

While the government mandated social distancing restrictions in Los Algodones have been lifted, you should still use common sense when out in public. If you see somewhere that’s really crowded, circle around to something else and see if the crowds clear out. People are pretty constantly on the move in Algodones, so it usually doesn’t take long for a busy area to thin out a bit.

If you do find yourself in an area that enforces social distancing, Mexico uses the same 6 feet or 2 meters that the United States and Canada use. During my visit to Los Algodones, I saw a couple signs for social distancing. Not surprisingly, they appeared to be leftover from earlier in the pandemic that were never taken down. Nobody was enforcing them.

COVID-19 protocols remain in effect in Los Algodones
COVID-19 Protocols Sign on the Front of a Restaurant in Los Algodones, Baja California, Mexico

Sanitize Your Hands

During my visit to Los Algodones during COVID-19, everywhere felt very, very clean. In fact, the town felt cleaner that it did during any of my previous visits prior to the pandemic. Hand sanitizing stations are widely available throughout town, and you can carry your own sanitizer back and forth across the border. U.S. Customs and Border Protection does not put any restrictions on hand sanitizer the way the TSA does.

Support Los Algodones’ Local Economy

As a small business owner, I’m a big proponent of supporting small businesses and your local economy. I’d much rather spend my money at a local store and keep the money locally than have it wind up lining the pockets of a rich CEO on the other side of the country. And that local economy is exactly what makes Los Algodones so special and so unique. Best of all, you can still enjoy all of the same experiences that you would prior to the pandemic. All while keeping your risk level to a minimum. As I mentioned earlier, I did not feel at significant risk of COVID-19 while I was there.

  • Eat at restaurants. Nearly all of them are outdoors and open air.
  • Shop from the street vendors, liquor stores, and pharmacies. None of them appear to have taken any serious economic hits from the pandemic. In fact, there were more street vendors in December, 2021 than I ever remember.
  • Visit the dentist and get your teeth cleaned. Just make sure to do your homework before hand to ensure you’re choosing a reputable practice.

Returning to the United States

While not much has changed entering Mexico, you will notice some changes to the process for re-entering the United States because of the pandemic. You still line up in the same place you always do, but the line no longer snakes around the fence into the customs hall. Instead, U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) stops the front of the line right where you step from Mexico into the United States. When you reach the front of the line, a CBP agent will verify you have the proper documents to enter. They will then send you to the customs hall in small groups. There is plenty of shade available while you’re waiting in line. However, you may want to bring a water bottle if it’s a hot day.

People wait in line to clear customs back into the United States
The queue to re-enter the United States in Los Algodones. Wait times were similar to the pre-COVID era.

Once you reach the customs hall, you must wait outside until it’s your turn to go through. Once inside, the process to clear customs goes quick. I was in and out in less than two minutes.

Federal Mask Requirements in the United States

Because the customs hall is a federal facility, you are required to wear a mask while inside it. Ironically, the U.S. Government has started taking pictures of everyone entering the country to verify their identity. As a result, the first thing the CBP agent will ask you to do is take off your mask. If you’re a U.S. citizen, they will delete your photo as soon as they verify your identity. You can always request an alternative method to verify your identity if you’re uncomfortable having your picture taken.

Proof of COVID-19 Vaccination or Negative Test

As far as COVID-19 related documentation goes, you do not need much to cross the land border. In fact, U.S. citizens do not need any documentation. You do not need to present proof of a negative test to enter the United States at a land border, as the testing requirement only applies if you’re arriving by air.

However, if you are not a U.S. citizen, you will need to show proof of full vaccination. The U.S. currently accepts any vaccine that either the CDC or the World Health Organization has approved. At the time I’m writing this, the U.S. does not include booster shots in their definition of fully vaccinated, but that will likely change at some point in the next several months.

Don’t Forget to Declare Everything You’re Bringing Back from Mexico

Finally, you still need to declare everything you’re bringing back from Mexico. Failing to declare an item can lead to hefty fines, penalties, and even jail time. Don’t even think about doing it.

Conclusion

Despite the explosion in COVID-19 cases due to the omicron variant, you can still have a fun, safe, and enjoyable time in Los Algodones. We know so much more about the virus now that we did even just a year ago. With medical tourism rendering a lot of its services essential, Los Algodones seems to be thriving better now than ever before. Be smart, know the limits for your comfort and risk levels for being around others in a pandemic, and you’re bound to have a great time.

I’ll be producing a video of this guide soon, and it will be posted here once it’s done. Have you visited Los Algodones since the pandemic began? Leave your story in the comments below. Don’t let the pandemic be an excuse not to go experience one of the most unique border destinations in the world.

The post How To Have A Safe And Successful Visit To Los Algodones, Mexico During The COVID-19 Pandemic appeared first on Matthew Gove Blog.

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Weird Geography: 10 Bizarre and Unusual Facts About Chile https://blog.matthewgove.com/2021/12/03/weird-geography-10-bizarre-and-unusual-facts-about-chile/ Fri, 03 Dec 2021 16:00:00 +0000 https://blog.matthewgove.com/?p=3484 With such an unusual shape, there is no shortage of bizarre and unusual facts about Chile. It’s a country that nobody hears much about, yet you get the impression that it’s still largely misunderstood. It’s a land of wild extremes, not just in terms of geography, but also for climate […]

The post Weird Geography: 10 Bizarre and Unusual Facts About Chile appeared first on Matthew Gove Blog.

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With such an unusual shape, there is no shortage of bizarre and unusual facts about Chile. It’s a country that nobody hears much about, yet you get the impression that it’s still largely misunderstood. It’s a land of wild extremes, not just in terms of geography, but also for climate and weather. To learn more of the unique facts about Chile, it’s time to hit the road and go south. Way down south.

1. Chile Stretches from 17°S to 56°S Latitude, a Distance of 4,270 km (2,653 mi).

That may not sound like a whole lot, but think about it this way. If you were to put the southern tip of Chile over Los Angeles, its northern tip would be out in the Arctic Ocean north of Canada and Alaska.

Outline of Chile overlaid on a map of the United States and Canada
Outline of Chile Overlaid on the US and Canada

For a little perspective of just how big Chile is from north to south, let’s look at what cities and landmarks sit at its latitudinal extremes in the Northern Hemisphere.

At 17° North Latitude

  • Acapulco, Guerrero, Mexico
  • Belmopan, Belize
  • Antigua and Barbuda
  • The northern Cape Verde Islands
  • The Southern Sahara Desert
  • Hyderabad, India
  • Vientiane, Laos
  • The northern Philippines

At 56° North Latitude

  • Ketchikan, Alaska, USA
  • Fort McMurray, Alberta, Canada
  • Aberdeen, Scotland (UK)
  • Gothenburg, Sweden
  • Riga, Latvia
  • Moscow, Russia
  • Krasnoyarsk, Russia
  • The Northern Tip of Lake Baikal

As the crow flies, if you were to travel from the northern tip of Chile to the southern tip, you will have covered the same distance as if you had traveled from Darwin, Australia to Bangkok, Thailand. Closer to home, if you fly from Juneau, Alaska to Houston, Texas, that’s also the equivalent of flying the length of Chile.

2. At Its Widest Point, Chile is 350 km (217 mi) Wide

From a geographical standpoint, Chile is the skinniest country in the world. At its widest, it’s only 350 km (217 mi) wide. Most U.S. States west of the Mississippi River are wider than that. That’s roughly the distance from

  • New York City to Washington, DC
  • Toronto to Ottawa
  • Los Angeles to Las Vegas
  • Dallas to Houston
  • Cleveland to Cincinnati
  • London to Paris
  • Copenhagen to Berlin

Despite Being So Skinny, Chile Actually Has Three Time Zones

For comparison, the continental United States has four time zones. However, Chile’s three time zones are a bit misleading, because one of them belongs to Easter Island, which sits out in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. It’s the equivalent of Hawaii having its own time zone in the US.

Now, it takes an even more bizarre twist. The time zone line in mainland Chile is parallel to lines of latitude, meaning it separates north from south instead of east and west. But when you put it on a map, it does actually make some sense. It’s only the Magallanes Province in the very southern tip Chile that’s in a different time zone from the rest of the country. That’s where Chile actually bends to the east, under Argentina.

Time ZoneUTC OffsetDST Offset
Mainland Chile-04:00-03:00
Magallanes and Chilean Antarctica-03:00-03:00
Easter Island-06:00-05:00
Time Zones in Chile

3. Chile is the 36th Largest Country in the World by Surface Area

Despite its notable lack of width, Chile gets its surface area from its vast north-south reach. Perhaps one the most surprising facts about Chile is that it’s actually smaller than its neighbor, Bolivia. Have a look at the map. I’d bet you wouldn’t guess that at first glance.

Interestingly, Chile is also smaller than Nigeria. If you pan the above map to the northeast slightly, you’ll see Nigeria on the west coast of Africa. You can make the comparison for yourself. It’s also slightly larger than the State of Texas.

RankCountrySurface Area (sq km)Surface Area (sq mi)
30Nigeria923,770356,669
31Venezuela912,050340,561
32Namibia824,290318,261
33Pakistan796,100339,697
34Mozambique786,380313,661
35Turkey785,350300,948
36Chile756,700291,930
37Zambia752,610290,586
38Myanmar676,590261,218
39Afghanistan652,860251,773
40Somalia637,660246,601

4. Excluding Antarctica, Chile is Home to the Southernmost Point in the Southern Hemisphere.

You can find that point at Águila Islet, in the Diego Ramírez Islands. At 56°32’16″S, it’s notably further south than the southernmost points in Africa or Oceania. In fact, the Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego region advertises itself as the Southernmost Point in the world.

ContinentSouthernmost PointLatitude
South AmericaÁguila Islet, Chile56.537778°S
AfricaCape Agulhas, South Africa34.831162°S
OceaniaJauqemart Island, New Zealand52.616973°S

5. The Southern Tip of Chile and Argentina is the Snowiest Region in the Southern Hemisphere

While the Southern Hemisphere doesn’t get anywhere near the amount of snow that the Northern Hemisphere does in the winter, it has its fair share of snowy hotspots. Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego are well-known for being one the premier outdoor winter destinations in the world. The City of Ushuaia, Argentina, which sits on the border with Chile, averages over 118 cm (46 inches) of snow per year.

While Patagonia has recorded snowfall in every month of the year, June is typically the snowiest month in southern Chile and Argentina. Ushuaia averages 16 days of snowfall in June, with 23 cm (9 inches) of snow accumulation.

6. Chile is also Home to the Driest Desert in the World

It comes as a surprise to many people, but for a country that hugs the coast of South America, the majority of Chile is covered in desert. And it’s not just any desert. It’s the driest desert in the world. Beating out Death Valley, the Sahara, and the Arabian desert, the Atacama Desert surrounds the abandoned town of Yungay. The desert as a whole averages only 15 mm (0.6 in) of rain per year. That makes it 50 times drier than Death Valley. And the Atacama Desert’s driest locations? They’re lucky if they get 1 to 3 mm (0.04 to 0.12 inches) of rain per year.

Interestingly, Chile’s deserts are not particularly known for their heat, unlike the deserts in the Northern Hemisphere, or the Australian Outback. And it’s not due to elevation, either. Yungay sits at only 268 m (897 ft) above sea level, which is lower than Phoenix, Arizona. The hottest temperature ever recorded in Chile was 37.7°C (99.9°F) at Santiago on 20 January, 2017. That’s a stark contrast to the Northern Hemisphere deserts that routinely hit 45 to 50°C (115 to 120°F) in the summer!

7. Chile is the Driest Country in the World

If I asked you to name the driest country in the world, what would your first guess be? Probably a country in the Sahara or the Middle East. Saudi Arabia would be a good guess. It’s the only country in the world without rivers. As would some of the colder landlocked desert countries in Central Asia. I’m talking about countries like Mongolia, Uzbekistan, and Afghanistan. Nope, those are all wrong.

Chile is actually the driest country in the world, despite its 6,400 km of coastline and its proximity to the ocean. What’s even more, cloud cover is a fairly frequent sight in Chile. The rain just doesn’t make it to the ground. Why is that?

In Chile, the unique combination of tall mountains and dry deserts work together to both prevent rain and to reinforce each other. As moist air from the Pacific Ocean passes over the mountains, the mountains ring rain out of the air like you ring out a sponge. By the time the air gets to the other side, there’s no more moisture in it. This phenomenon is exactly why the deserts in the western United States exist.

Furthermore, Chile’s deserts are large enough and dry enough that they can actually block rain from reaching the ground. When rain falls through a dry layer, it starts to evaporate. When that dry layer is dry enough and thick enough, the rain simply evaporates before it reaches the ground. The combination of a powerful rain shadow and the mountains blocking moisture from reaching these locations in the first place is why Chile is the driest country in the world. Some parts of Chile haven’t seen rain in over 500 years.

8. Chile is the Coldest Country in the Southern Hemisphere

Interestingly, it’s only the 32nd coldest country in the world. Countries in the Southern Hemisphere are usually warmer then their Northern Hemisphere Counterparts for two reasons. First, the land mass in the northern hemisphere stretches much more poleward. The southernmost point in the Southern Hemisphere is at 56°S. The entire State of Alaska sits above 56°N. Additionally, parts of Canada and Russia reach latitudes of 80°N. Second, the peninsula is surrounded by water, which helps keep temperature extremes at bay.

Chile sees an average temperature of 8.45°C (47.2°F) per year. It saw its coldest temperature ever recorded on 21 June, 2002, when the mercury at Puesto Viejo dropped to -40°C (-40°F).

How Do Other Countries Compare?

For comparison, here are the average temperatures of comparable countries.

CountryAvg. Temp (°C)Avg Temp (°F)
Chile8.4547.2
Argentina14.858.6
New Zealand10.5550.99
United States12.4454.4
Canada-5.3522.37
Norway1.534.7

9. At Its Closest Point, Chile is Less Than 1,000 km (620 mi) from Antarctica

It’s no surprise that if you want to get to Antarctica, you have to go through either Chile or Argentina. The two most popular departure points are Punta Arenas, Chile and Ushuaia, Argentina. During the very short summer season (December to early February), ships routinely depart from both ports, and can reach Antarctica in about 48 hours. You can also fly to Antarctica. However, there are no commercial flights, and weather can be unpredictable, making it one of the most expensive flights around.

The shortest gap between Chile and Antarctica is the Drake Passage. Separating the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, it’s about 985 km (610 mi) from Chile to Antarctica. The Drake Passage has a fierce reputation for being one of the most treacherous voyages for ships to make. However, everyone who has successfully crossed it to Antarctica said it was well worth it and that a trip to Antarctica should be on your bucket list. It’s certainly on mine.

10. The border between Argentina and Chile is one of the Most Stunning Natural Borders in the World

Stretching 5,308 km (3,298 mi) across the spine of the Andes mountains, the Chile-Argentina border is one of the most breathtakingly beautiful natural frontiers in the world. It’s also the third longest international land border in the world. Only the borders between the United States and Canada and between Russia and Kazakhstan are longer. Because the terrain is so rugged, much of the land remains uninhabited, untouched, and pure natural beauty.

Ruta Nacional 40 on the Argentina Side of the Border is one of the Most Scenic Drives in the World.

Looking into Argentina from Chile in Tierra del Fuego

Heading East Towards the Paso de Jama Port of Entry in Northern Chile’s Reserva Nacional Los Flamencos

Conclusion

Chile is one of the most beautiful, unique, and fascinating countries in the world. With so much to offer, it’s no wonder Chile is one of the premier locations in the world for outdoor adventures, nature enthusiasts, and much more. It’s certainly an experience that’s on my bucket list. Is it on yours?

Top Photo: Stunning Snow-Capped Mountains Surrounding Lake Tahoe
Incline Village, Nevada – February, 2020

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Travel Journal: Post-COVID Adventures Kick Off in New York City https://blog.matthewgove.com/2021/11/19/travel-journal-post-covid-adventures-kick-off-in-new-york-city/ Fri, 19 Nov 2021 16:00:00 +0000 https://blog.matthewgove.com/?p=3418 Post-COVID travel. It’s a phrase we’ve all been waiting 20 months to finally say. As we cautiously emerge from under its shadow, the pandemic has done funny things to warp our sense of time. On one hand, my final pre-COVID adventure across Mexico, the US, and Canada feels like it […]

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Post-COVID travel. It’s a phrase we’ve all been waiting 20 months to finally say. As we cautiously emerge from under its shadow, the pandemic has done funny things to warp our sense of time. On one hand, my final pre-COVID adventure across Mexico, the US, and Canada feels like it was 20 years ago. It was actually in August and September of 2019. On the other hand, things seem surreally frozen in time from February and March of 2020, despite how much we’ve accomplished rebuilding our business to better serve you in this exciting next chapter.

Which is exactly why New York City was the perfect and unusually satisfying destination to kick off our post-COVID travel. Seemingly the antithesis of my standard adventures deep in the remote back country, New York became the piece that fit perfectly into this often warped and twisted post-COVID puzzle. Having grown up in Massachusetts as a die-hard Red Sox fan, going to New York always felt like walking into enemy territory. Only this time it didn’t. People seemed very welcoming, much like what I experienced when I would travel to Mexico prior to the COVID-19 pandemic. Twisted and warped, indeed. At least we still got the quintessential New York experience of sitting in traffic and paying the ridiculous tolls to cross the George Washington Bridge.

Our first post-COVID travel adventure took us into New York City.
The Skyline of Lower and Midtown Manhattan, as seen from the New Jersey Turnpike

Our destination in New York was the Cosmic Nature: Infinity exhibit at the New York Botanical Garden in The Bronx. After nearly two years of living through the pandemic, Infinity turned out to be an impeccable theme for our first post-COVID travel adventure.

Travel in a Post-COVID World

I’ll be honest with you. I had no idea what to expect in my first “real” post-COVID adventure. It’s been no secret how unpleasant so many of my previous encounters with the public throughout the pandemic. From the death threats I got in Arizona to derogatory slurs being hurled at me in Texas to the intimidating stares in just about every other state, I was pretty skeptical heading into New York City. The pandemic had seemed to bring out the absolute worst in everybody.

Despite their reputation, New Yorkers could not have been more friendly, welcoming, and respectful. Lines were orderly. Nobody was making a fuss over COVID-19 restrictions. What an incredible contrast from what I had to deal with in Arizona throughout the pandemic! Did it make any sense to me? No. Was I happy and relieved to see it? Without a doubt.

How has the COVID-19 Pandemic Changed Travel?

It has and it hasn’t. While many people expect a 9/11-style division between pre-COVID and post-COVID travel, I didn’t see it as quite that harsh. At least not right now. Flying out of Logan Airport in Boston less than 6 months after the 9/11 attacks was nothing like pre-9/11 travel. The endless lines, the extremely tight security, and the bomb-sniffing dogs didn’t feel real. Don’t forget that two out of the four hijacked planes in the 9/11 attacks originated in Boston, so we were grateful for the extra security at the time. But over time, we learned to accept that there was no going back to a pre-9/11 world.

While there will definitely be a pre and post-COVID distinction, I found a lot of normalcy visiting the Botanical Gardens in New York. Walking around looking at the exhibit felt eerily like pre-COVID times. You still have to wear a mask going into buildings, and there are signs everywhere to remind you that the pandemic is not yet over. But all the social distancing placards and blocked off areas were all gone. Those are so 2020, I guess.

New York City’s COVID-19 Vaccine Mandate

Nearly all of the post-COVID changes to your travel will be entering facilities. New York City requires you to show proof of COVID-19 vaccination to enter just about every public facility. If you’re not vaccinated, you will be denied entry, as negative tests are not accepted. Acceptable proof of vaccination includes:

  • The original physical copy of your vaccination card
  • An electronic copy or photograph of your vaccination card
  • A photocopy of your vaccination record

Because they featured both indoor and outdoor exhibits, the Botanical Gardens were the perfect place to get a glimpse into what post-COVID travel may look like. Staff members verified our vaccine cards at the main entrance, and once we were inside, we did not need to show them again. My aunt and I both got our shots in the US, while my uncle was vaccinated in Canada. We had no issues getting in.

Both staff and security at the entrance to each building reminded us to wear masks inside and closely monitored foot traffic to ensure that the building did not exceed capacity. Other than that, though, it felt oddly normal.

Infinity: The Crossroads of Art and Physics

The Cosmic Nature: Infinity exhibit at the Botanical Garden was easily one of the most fascinating art exhibits I’ve ever seen. Artist Yayoi Kusama presented a captivating crossroads between land and water, art and physics, and indoors and out to showcase her lifelong fascination with the natural world. Unfortunately, we were there on one of the last weekends the exhibit was open. If you ever get a chance to see Kusama’s work elsewhere, I highly recommend it. It’s well worth the journey.

The grounds of the New York Botanical Gardens are beautiful to begin with. However, it doesn’t take long before you see Kusama’s touch. What originally feels like walking onto the grounds of The Masters quickly transports you Japan. The combination of all the flowers in bloom and the near-peak fall colors made it truly magical.

Peaceful walkway at one of the gardens in the Cosmic Nature: Infinity exhibit in New York
One of the Walking Paths Through the Kusama Exhibit at the New York Botanical Garden

Our first stop was at a large tent where the public could make their own infinity art. Each person was given a flower and had to place it somewhere in the tent that was not on the fan, not on the fire extinguisher, and not in your pocket. When you walk into the tent, it is simply sensory overload for your eyes.

A wall of flowers puts your eyes on sensory overload.
Public-Made Wall of Flowers Put Your Eyes on Sensory Overload

The First Taste of Infinity in Our Post-COVID Travel

Next up was our first taste of infinity at the Infinite Pumpkins room. It takes a second going from the bright, sunny outdoors to a pitch dark room, but I think that was done intentionally. Once your eyes adjust, you find yourself in a small room with a cube that’s roughly 4 feet in all dimensions.

A light underneath the cube slowly turns on, illuminating paper lantern pumpkins covering the bottom of the cube. As the light reaches full brightness, you look into the cube, and like magic, the rows of pumpkins look like they go on forever, into infinity. You start walking around the cube, and find that every side you look into, you’re staring into infinity. Look down, and you’re staring into a bottomless pit full of pumpkins. Since I have a degree in physics, my interest was particularly piqued.

So how does she do it? If you’re familiar with Kusama’s work, you know that reflection is a common theme in her art. The sides of the Infinity Pumpkins cube were all two-way mirrors, which gives you a truly unique sense of infinity regardless of the angle you’re viewing it. Photography was banned in the room, so I unfortunately can’t show you any pictures. However, you can find pictures of similar exhibits with a quick Google search.

Your Narcissism For Sale at the Narcissus Garden

In Greek Mythology, Narcissus is the god who was well-known for his beauty. He rejected all romantic advances, and ultimately fell in love with his own reflection in a pool of water. He became so consumed by his obsession with himself he stared at his reflection for the rest of his life, drawing the ire and vengeance of the other gods. If you’ve ever wondered where the term “narcissism” comes from, that’s where.

As part of a protest against elitism in the 1960’s, Kusama stood among 1,500 mirrored orbs with a sign that read “Your Narcissism For Sale”. She sold the orbs for $2 each. Later in her career, she built the Narcissus Garden, letting the orbs float around a large pond surrounded by plants and nature. In addition to seeing your own reflection, the orbs reflect the trees, sky, and water, allowing you to be one with the landscape.

Reflective orbs float in a pond at Kusama's Narcissus Garden at the New York Botanical Garden
Steel Orbs Floating in the Narcissus Garden

Discovering Teleportation Inside the Conservatory

The Enid Haupt Conservatory is one of the most striking buildings at the New York Botanical Gardens. Housing exotic plants from around the world, the majestic Palm Dome ties the building together. And if there’s one thing walking amongst so many exotic tropical plants gives you, it’s some serious wanderlust.

Due to COVID-19 restrictions, the loop through the conservatory was only one-way. You start in the tropical rainforest, where you’re instantly transported to the lush jungles of South America, Africa, Asia, and the Caribbean. You’ll see everything from common houseplants to the most exotic and rare flora. And if you listen closely, you can almost hear the exotic birds, monkeys, and jaguars that call the rainforest home.

Walking through the tropical rainforest greenhouse really set off our post-COVID travel wanderlust.
Exploring the Tropical Rainforest

Towards the end of the rainforest exhibit, the path starts to descend, like you’re sinking into the ground. The exhibit surrounds you with swampy aquatic plants. Then, all of a sudden you reach a flight of stairs. Go down the stairs into an underground metal tunnel that feels like it’s right out of Star Trek. Walk for a couple of minutes. You’ll go up a short flight of stairs and be dropped right into the middle of the desert. I turned to my aunt and said, “if we ever figure out teleportation, I’m pretty sure that’s what it’s gonna feel like.”

A beautiful water lily bloom at the New York Botanical Garden
Water Lillies in Bloom

The desert exhibit is just as exotic. While it features many staples of the American Southwest, it will also transport you to more deserts such as the Kalahari, the Australian Outback, and Arabia. Seeing the native plants from the Kalahari mixed in with American staples such as the Saguaro and the Prickly Pear did catch me off guard a little. But it was really cool to see them together. You can’t do that in Arizona.

An exhibit of desert succulents from Africa is on display at the New York Botanical Garden.
Desert Succulents from the Kalahari Region of Southern Africa

Chance Encounters are One Reason Why I Love to Travel

When the COVID-19 pandemic shut down travel in 2020, there was one thing I really missed from my adventures. Prior to the pandemic, I really enjoyed the short, chance encounters with interesting people when I would go down to Mexico. You can learn a lot about yourself and other cultures if you stop, listen to what they have to say, and learn from it. As I traveled more and more, I found myself having more of these interactions in unexpected places.

Not surprisingly, I had a really cool chance encounter in New York while waiting in line to see the Dancing Pumpkin exhibit. It’s hard to describe the Dancing Pumpkin other than it looks like a dancing polka-dotted octopus, so here’s a picture of it. You can get your picture taken in front of it and walk around underneath it.

Yayoi Kusama's Dancing Pumpkin on display at the New York Botanical Garden.
The Dancing Pumpkin

A Blast From the Film-Era Past

As we got towards the front of the line, there was a group of three young women in front of us. I had my DSLR camera around my neck, so one of them turned to me and asked if I could take their picture for them. They told me the secrets to using their camera, and then went to pose for their picture in front of the Dancing Pumpkin.

As they walked over, I couldn’t help but notice their camera didn’t have a screen on the back of it. A closer glance at the back and I saw a label that said “Insert Film Here”. I hadn’t used a film camera in at least 20 years, so I thought this was pretty cool. But it gets better. After they got into position, I gave them the countdown. 3-2-1, and then pushed the button. You could hear the gears of the camera pulling the film through as it captured the image. Then I felt pressure pushing up on the underside of the brim of my hat.

I pulled the camera away from my face and looked down to see the picture coming out of the top. It was a Polaroid camera. I have a very high level of respect for people that still use film cameras, so I made sure to tell them. We had a good laugh over it as I gave the camera back to them. This may be the COVID isolation talking, but that brief interaction really made my day.

The Grand Finale at the Infinity Room

The Infinity Room is what people come to the Kusama exhibits for. Using nothing more than light and mirrors, the Infinity Room immerses you in an environment that fosters an out of body experience while at the same time heightening and arousing your senses. Remember the Infinite Pumpkins exhibit we visited earlier? The Infinity Room is the same thing, except instead of putting paper pumpkins inside the cube, you put yourself. And the other big difference? You can take pictures inside the Infinity Room. You only get 45 seconds inside, so be ready with your camera to make the most of it.

Outside view of Kusama's Infinity Room
The Infinity Room Is Actually Only About a 10-Foot Cube

If you’re wondering where the worlds of art and physics collide, it’s inside the Infinity Room. When you step in, you’re instantly hit with visual overload. Prisms all over the wall and ceiling light up the mirrored walls with what feels like infinite colors. A slight echo subconsciously enhances your hearing, too. Make sure to observe the room from different angles. The optics will give you a sense for the many, or dare I say infinite, different aspects of infinity. Then just like that, the door opens and your time is up.

Yayoi Kusama's Infinity Room in New York City

Final Thoughts on Post-COVID Travel

It felt so good to finally be able to get out and go adventuring. I really believe that post-COVID travel will feel much more “normal” than many people think. I got a bit of that feeling on a day trip to Boston a couple months ago, and this trip to New York certainly reinforced it.

However, just like after 9/11, we must remember that new practices, policies, and protocols are in place to keep you safe. Those 5-hour waits to get through security at Logan Airport in early 2002 quietly faded away as we embraced the new post-9/11 normal. And the COVID-19 restriction will do the same. Since the onset of the pandemic, I felt safer in New York City than I did in Phoenix, Boston, and everywhere else I’ve been in between. This is just the beginning of our next chapter, and as the world fully reopens, I couldn’t be more excited for what future adventures hold in 2022 and beyond.

Stay Up-to-Date with Our Adventures

To follow along and stay up-to-date with our post-COVID travel adventures, please sign up for the Matt Gove Photo newsletter. In addition, you’ll also get exclusive deals to our store that we don’t offer anywhere else, as well as free travel guides and visual storytelling (photography/video) tutorials. It’s free, and always will be. Where will your first post-COVID adventure take you?

Want to See More Photos of Cosmic Nature: Infinity?

Can’t get enough of infinity here? Head over to the Matt Gove Photo website. You’ll find the complete photo album from the Cosmic Nature: Infinity exhibit there.

Top Photo: Kusama’s Tulip Sculptures Take Over a Pond at the Cosmic Nature: Infinity Exhibit
New York, New York – October, 2021

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The Complete Travelers’ Guide to Rue Canusa https://blog.matthewgove.com/2021/10/22/the-complete-travelers-guide-to-rue-canusa/ Fri, 22 Oct 2021 16:00:00 +0000 https://blog.matthewgove.com/?p=3352 Rue Canusa, or Canusa Street as it’s known in English, is both a modern oddity and an homage to simpler, more unified times along the US-Canada border. Named for the two countries it separates, it’s one of the only places in the world where you can drive down the street […]

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Rue Canusa, or Canusa Street as it’s known in English, is both a modern oddity and an homage to simpler, more unified times along the US-Canada border. Named for the two countries it separates, it’s one of the only places in the world where you can drive down the street and each side of the road is in a different country. Head eastbound and you’re driving on US soil. Turn around and head back west, and you’ll be in Canada. And in the times of COVID-19, that division could not be any more stark.

Where is Rue Canusa?

Rue Canusa sits in a beautiful, rolling, and rural part of the Green Mountains separating Stanstead, Québec from Beebe Plain, Vermont. As the crow flies, it’s equidistant from both Montréal and Burlington; however, the nearest city is Sherbrooke, Québec, about 45 km (28 mi) to the northeast.

Why You Should Drive Rue Canusa

Despite Rue Canusa’s short length – about half a kilometer – it’s loaded with history. Despite increasingly tightened security on both sides of the border over the past 30 years, it will give you glimpse into the past when life along the border was much simpler and much more unified.

In addition, Rue Canusa is one of the only places in the world where you can drive down the street, turn around, and come back down the same street in the opposite direction and be in a different country. In fact, it may be the only place in the world you can do that, but I haven’t been able to verify that for certain.

Prior to the September 11th terror attacks, communities along this part of the US-Canada border largely functioned as a single community. Crossing the border was simple and painless, more often resembling the process of crossing state or provincial boundaries than the international border crossings you know today.

Modern Times Means Tighter Border Security

Both the United States and Canada really began cracking down on border security in the immediate aftermath of the September 11th attacks. All of these small bi-national communities on the border were split in half overnight. People stopped crossing the border for simple errands, and many facilities that were built on the border to cater to patrons from both countries closed. The only venue that remains open today is the Haskell Free Library and Opera House, though it, too, has been closed during the COVID-19 pandemic.

The Haskell Free Library and Opera House sits only about 1 km from Rue Canusa.
Haskell Free Library and Opera House in 2019, as seen from the Vermont Side of the Border

Today, all that remains of those simpler times are gates and barriers across streets that once united the communities on each side of the border. All cross-border traffic is redirected to official ports of entry. While you hate to lose the unification of border communities, the benefits of tighter border security far outweigh the convenience of being able to walk into another country completely unaware that you’re crossing the border.

An Interesting Historical Legend

One of the more fascinating aspects of the history of Rue Canusa is its historical legend. The legend claims that when Stanstead and Beebe Plain were being settled back in the 1700s, a group of surveyors had too much to drink when they were working to determine where the international border was. Some people claim that these drunk surveyors were behind Rue Canusa. Others say it was just a mistake. Either way, both Stanstead and Beebe Plain continue to try and function as a single community despite the ever-evolving international border.

How Do You Get to Rue Canusa?

You can easily access Rue Canusa from either the United States or Canada. However, it is much easier from a logistical standpoint if you access it from Canada because you do not need to check in with customs prior to entering Rue Canusa. We’ll circle back to this very shortly.

Rue Canusa itself is very short, only about half a kilometer (1/3 mile). However, both countries have ports of entry at the west end of Rue Canusa. About 2 km to the east, you’ll find a much larger port of entry at the northern terminus of Interstate 91 and the southern terminus of Autoroute 55.

Access From Canada

From Canada, head south from Magog, Québec on either Autoroute 55 or Highway 247. If you have time, I recommend using Highway 247, a scenic, laid back drive that runs through rolling hills, forests, and quaint farmland along the shores of Lake Mamphrémagog. On the other hand, Autoroute 55 is a major freeway. Even better, Highway 247 becomes Rue Canusa when you reach the border.

On Highway 247, you’ll know you’re close when you start seeing signs for “Douanes”, which means “customs” in French. When you reach the border, follow the large orange barricade as the road bends 90 degrees to the left. Pass between the American and Canadian customs halls and onto Rue Canusa.

Approaching the west end of Rue Canusa from Quebec 247
Approaching the western end of Rue Canusa on Hwy 247, looking south into the United States from Stanstead, Québec

Access From the United States

From the United States, follow Interstate 91 North to its northern terminus at the border. Take the first left after clearing Canadian customs onto Québec 247. Follow Highway 247 for about 2 kilometers, which will bring you to the eastern end of Rue Canusa. After completing your journey down Rue Canusa, turn left to return to the United States, or turn right to continue north into Canada.

The US Port of Entry in Derby Line, Vermont is less than 2 km from Rue Canusa
Waiting to Enter the United States at the Northern Terminus of Interstate 91 in Derby Line, Vermont – August, 2019

How Customs Works

It’s no surprise that Rue Canusa’s unique design causes confusion among visitors and non-residents. Thankfully, it’s not as complicated as it may seem. Both countries have special rules for residents of Rue Canusa to deal with the border issue, but they do not apply to visitors.

When visiting Rue Canusa, always remember my golden rule: if in doubt, stop at the customs hall and check in. If they don’t need anything from you, they’ll send you on your way. On the other hand, failure to check in at customs will result in thousands of dollars in fines and can even result in jail time. A quick stop at customs can save yourself a ton of headaches.

Because Rue Canusa is a Québec Provincial Highway, the rule is shockingly simple. If you’re coming from Canada and staying in Canada, you do not need to pass through customs. If you’re doing anything else, you will need to clear customs on either or both of your outbound and return trips. The map below should make it clear why.

OriginDestinationCanadian CustomsU.S. Customs
United StatesCanadaYes, at EntryNo
United StatesUnited StatesYes, at EntryYes, at Exit
CanadaUnited StatesNoYes, at Exit
CanadaCanadaNoNo
Customs Check-In Requirements for Entering Rue Canusa from the Origin and Exiting Rue Canusa to the Destination

What to Expect Driving or Walking Rue Canusa

If I dropped you onto Rue Canusa without any context, it would feel just like any other quiet, quaint residential street in the US or Canada. Well-kept homes line both sides of the street. There are even a few businesses on the Québec side of the street near the east end of Rue Canusa.

Furthermore, you would have no idea an international border ran right down the middle of the street. Okay, maybe Canadian flags flying on one side of the street and American flags flying on the other might clue you in. But there are no fences, markers, or other indicators of the border aside from the customs buildings at one end of Rue Canusa and a survey marker at the other.

International Border superimposed on a photograph of Rue Canusa
Looking East on Rue Canusa in August, 2019

What Language Do You Speak on Rue Canusa?

If you speak English or French, you’re all set. All federal operations (read: customs) on both sides of the border are fully bilingual. In town, you will find both languages used in many places. However, people will favor English on the Vermont side of the border and French on the Québec side.

What Else is There to do near Rue Canusa?

There are so many other things to do and places to explore on both sides of the border year round. From skiing and snow sports in the winter to swimming and boating in the summer to leaf peeping and maple syrup in the fall, there are activities for everyone.

Activities in Canada

The closest and most popular attraction to Rue Canusa on the Canadian side of the border are Québec’s National Parks. About 25 kilometers to the north, you’ll find Parc National du Mont Orford, which is famous for its breathtaking mountain landscapes and outdoor recreation. And if that’s not enough, there are 4 additional National Parks within a two to three hour drive of Rue Canusa, as well as numerous nature preserves, provincial parks, and lakes.

But what if you’re not the outdoorsy type? Montréal, Sherbrooke, and Québec City are all less than a three-hour drive from Rue Canusa. All three cities are rich in culture, history, and activities both indoors and out. And if you’re willing to travel a little further, Toronto, Ottawa, and the Canadian Maritimes are all easily within reach.

A warm summer day on a river in Ontario's cottage country
Soaking in Ontario’s beautiful Cottage Country north of Toronto in August, 2019

Activities in the United States

While the northeastern United States does not have the National Parks that Québec boasts, all of the northeast states have amazing state parks, forests, and outdoor recreation. You can easily reach both Boston and New York City in a day’s drive. And if you’re craving some of the best seafood in the world, the same goes for downeast Maine. And while you’re there, don’t forget to visit Acadia National Park, either.

A mountain landscape is lit up with brilliant fall colors in Maine
Don’t miss fall colors in northern New England, such as this vista from the Height of Land Overlook in Maine.

Haskell Free Library and Opera House

About a kilometer east of Rue Canusa, you’ll find the Haskell Free Library and Opera House. Intentionally built straddling the international border, the fully bilingual library has served both nations since it opened in 1904. Furthermore, it’s the only performance space in the world where the stage and the audience are in two different countries. There’s actually a running joke that it’s the only library in the United States without books and the only opera house in the United States without a stage. The bookshelves and the opera stage are both on the Canadian side of the building.

You can enter the library from either the US or Canada and move around freely while inside, but once you’re done, the rule is simple: you must return to the country from which you came.

Bookshelves inside the Haskell Free Library
Browse the shelves inside the Haskell Free Library for titles in both English and French
Flags mark the international border inside the Haskell Free Library and Opera House
Look for Horace the Bear marking the international border inside the Haskell Free Library

Conclusion

Rue Canusa is one of the most unique streets in the world. Whether you’re driving, walking, biking, or something else, you’ll be able to say you’ve done something very few other people in the world have. But don’t get caught up in the moment. While the US and Canada are very friendly, they both take border security very seriously. Respect the laws, soak in the uniqueness of the moment, and you’re bound to have a safe, fun, and memorable time.

Resources

Top Photo: Driving Rue Canusa
Stanstead, Québec, Canada – August, 2019

The post The Complete Travelers’ Guide to Rue Canusa appeared first on Matthew Gove Blog.

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